With everything I've read, there was either no difference, or very little difference between the 65mm and 70mm TB on a N/A engine. When you get into power adders is where you will need to address anything bigger than 65mm for the street 5.0 engine.

Look very close at the parts before you make the purchase.

For your application, much like my setup, it doesn't affect the performance enough to worry about. Besides, I'm sure you'll end up getting an after-market intake soon enough.

I keep wanting to purchase the C&L 76MM mass air meter and aluminum tube, calibrated for the stock 19lb injectors, but darn it all if I never can seem to scrounge the cashola together!

It sure does look nice though, dudn't it?

A lot of people are concerned with gas mileage...as am I...but the way I look at it, I own a Mustang. If I wanted gas mileage, Ida bought a friggen Escort. Not only that, but if I don't put my foot through the floorboard, then I get a lot better gas mileage than if I do lead-foot it.

Everyone will have an opinion on R&P gears. If you have an automatic, I've heard you should go no less than 4.10's. With a T-5, no less than 3.73's.

Lotta gearheads working on their own cars will tell ya patience, the right tools and equipment, and proper directions will see ya through. But when it comes to rear diffs and tranny's, I prefer to let the pro's handle those.

Stewart

Honestly, I would say no more than a 4.30 in a stock 5.0 deal. And thats with a healthy camshaft and so on.

If you want to convert to Mass air, I have a kit in stock to do so. What it is basically is a cobra mass air meter, computer, and brackets and hoses. Its not cheap either!!!!

Wanna get crazy? We can put a combination together for you and make that thing scoot with the stock intake and heads!

quote:

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Originally posted by Capri:
3.73's and 4.10's are weak. Go with a 4.88!!!!!!!

Tony

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That's why I said "no less" than 3.73's/4.10's!

Pssssst, Tim...listen to Tony. I wish I knew half of what he and his father Alex have forgotten. But do remember this, he and Alex speak from a racing perspective and point of view. Sometimes they.....well, for lack of a better term...sometimes they forget they are talking to and teaching mere "mortals" like us!

Don't worry about your freeway RPM's. You'll get used to them being a few hundred RPM's higher at speed. Of all the UBB's I read, I've never read where someone wished they had gone to a numerically lower gear over the actual gear they choose. In fact, many wish they had gone to a numerically higher gear!

Yup, guys with 3.55's wish they had gone with 3.73's, guys with 3.73's wish they had gone with 4.10's, and guys with 4.10's wish they had gone with 4.30's! And a lot of guys that went with the 3.55's, jump straight to the 4.10's.

As a regular member over at the Corral always say's, "don't fear the gear!"

Stewart

quote:

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Originally posted by Tim Cash:
Good golly jee. I didn't know it was going to cost me my first born to change out my gears.

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Did you get some price quotes? How much were you quoted? Was the quoted price for the labor and parts, or just labor only?

The milage thing. That depends on you. If you dont mind burning a bit of fuel to go faster, then you are good with either 3.73, 4.10 and 4.30's are pushing it. The rpm range with a 4.10 gear and a AOD auotmatic is 75 mph at about 3000 rpm.

Honestly Tim, If you are intrested in a package to run quicker, just send me an email with what you want to do and Ill see what I can put together. If you have a budget in mind, include that also. Mild to wild. I have a Camshaft in stock and other things.

Thanks
Tim