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Author
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Topic: '69 mustang door and door glass adjustment
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1416
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-09-2006 08:07 PM
   
Guys,
I have a door adjustment problem. My drivers side door has never fit all that well. It is a little lower than the quarter panel at the top and the door glass seems too short and curve too far inward. Is there an adjustment or adjustments that will help out with my alignemnt?
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 443
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 10-09-2006 09:18 PM
The door not meeting the quarter could be hinge pins are worn open door halfway and lift up on the door if there is alot of play then you need new pins or if pins are solid you can loosen a hinge and have a friend gently lift up and then tighten the bolts and test the door for fit,do this a dozen times or so and you may ahve it fixed,before you start tho look at the relation of the door to the other panels if they are all good then possibly a new quarter was installed to high.Doors are sooooo fun 
The glass can be adjusted in and out but you need take the door panel off the inside ,make sure you do whatever adjustments you are gonna make to the door first then adjust the glass
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0603_window/index1.html
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68 Coop
Gearhead Posts: 5675
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004
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posted 10-09-2006 09:23 PM
What kind of shape are the hinge's in??? Sounds like they are starting to wear and letting the door sag a little. As far as the glass, it should sit inside a track, so I'd make sure it's in it and not cock-eyed at the bottom. On the 68's you have to remove the door panel to get to everything. Slow at typing, but at least I was right for a change. ------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831 68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok Even a broken clock is right twice a day. [This message has been edited by 68 Coop (edited 10-09-2006).]
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Mpcoluv
Gearhead Posts: 1416
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 10-09-2006 11:24 PM
The hinges have been rebuilt.
are there any shims used to adjust the doors?
I'll try to adjust the glass. I see how the glass adjusts back and forth using the botom guide rod screws, but how does it adjust up and down at the top of the guide rods?[This message has been edited by Mpcoluv (edited 10-09-2006).]
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 443
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 10-10-2006 04:33 PM
the 3 bolt holes behind the door hinge are larger then the bolts that goes thru them,loosen the bottom hinge bolts, have a friend lift the door and thrn retighten them ,check your fit....do that a bunch of times and you'll get it eventually.Up and down is adjusted at the top of the guide tube,check the link I posted. [This message has been edited by bob6364 (edited 10-10-2006).]
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RICKS
Gearhead Posts: 437
From: Ocala, FL
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 10-11-2006 08:46 AM
Get your door lined-up correctly PRIOR to worrying about adjusting the glass, otherwise, you're getting the cart ahead of the horse, arranging deck chairs on the Titanic, and all other sorts of annoying sayings.Once your door is properly situated (don't forget that a mal-adjusted striker can scuttle all your adjustment attempts made at the door pillar post), THEN tackle glass adjustment. Angle/attitude is adjusted at the bottom of the guide tubes. Terminal height is adjusted by "stops" that are self-explanatory once you remove your door panel and have a peek inside. It's easy-breezy-obvious once you get the panel off. The TRICK to getting the glass to sit flush with the door closed, and to nestle into the proper channel of the roof-rail weatherstrip, is to actually TILT the glass inward at the top with your bottom tube adjustment, such that as you slowly close the door, the top edge of the glass clears the leading edge of the roof rail weatherstrip, but makes contact with the inboard-edge of the channel. If you look at your roof rail weathersrip, you'll see that the inboard lip of the channel extends lower than the outboard lip of the channel, which is intentionally designed to accomodate what I'm explaining. Once the top edge of the glass is "seated" against the inboard edge of the weatherstrip, the last couple of inches of door travel prior to latching effectively pushes the glass more upright, "loading" it into the crotch of the weatherstrip channel. It's this intentional slight stress that always caused '69 glue-in glass to eventually fail. But it's necessary to have a bit of angle adjusted into your glass, such that it clears the first ridge of the weatherstrip and nestles into the second ridge, and then upon total closing is forced upward into the weatherstrip, creating an air-tight seal at-speed, and ALSO creating an inward tension that works against the window's natural tendency to suck out and away from the car as speed and cabin pressure increases. And this method will also ensure that your door glass nestles nice and flush with your 1/4 glass.
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bob6364
Gearhead Posts: 443
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004
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posted 10-11-2006 08:56 PM
Yeah!...What he^ said 
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