Brought to you in part by:

M&M Restoration & Tool Supply Store

Great deals on auto restoration supplies!

.


NOTICE! The old Mustangsandmore.com is a read-only archive.
Currently the Search function is inoperative, but we are working on the problem.

Please join us at our NEW Mustangsandmore.com forums located at this location.
Please notice this is a brand new message board, and you must re-register to gain access.

  Mustangsandmore Forum Archive
  '69 to '73 -- The Musclecar Mustang
  Undercarriage decision

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Undercarriage decision
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-08-2006 04:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
I've been trying to decide how to paint the undercarriage of my Mach and I finally came to a decision.

The way I see it, I have a choice of three ways:

1. Just like the factory did it, including the defects that the concours/thoroughbred guys replicate.

2. The same paint but a nice quality job.

3. The way I think will look the best and protect the best, which is a black semigloss such as POR-15 or Rustoleum.

I ruled out #1. My car being a San Jose car means that the undercarriage is Red Oxide. {like the Dearborn cars. Metuchen cars are slop gray according to my research} I never was one to see the sense of duplicating defects and I like nice paint work. Besides, to the casual observer a job like this looks like you did a crappy job on an area that not many people see.

Then I ruled out #2. This would have looked better, but the red oxide will probably get a lot of people asking why you stopped at the primer and just didn't finish it. People that really don't know older cars will probably look at it and say "Wow, are your floors rusty!" and I don't want to be explaining red oxide primer to everyone I meet.

So that leaves #3, a nice coat of semigloss black. My stainless lines and other components will contrast nicely, it will be easy to touch up, and it will convey the statement that this is a car brought back from the grave and cared for and preserved as best as possible.

Besides, I'm not creating a strict restoration and the car will never even be entered in shows. I'm just creating Steve's version of a '70 Mach 1.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

rcodenewf
Gearhead

Posts: 151
From: Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 07-08-2006 05:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rcodenewf        Reply w/Quote
I agree with you Steve on #3. I just painted my acapulco blue 69 fastback and had the undercarriage etch primed and then painted blue. Then, while still in the body shop, I said to myself that this isn't a concours resto and I certainly want to drive this car. So, I had the undercarriage all scuffed again with scotch brite and had a very thin coat of rustproofing/undercoating put on it. Not the heavy buildup when some guys try to hide things. Just a thin coat for protection with the blue kinda showing in some of the places. Actually it looks very neat and tidy and looks sort of factory. Certainly meets my needs as this coating will be somewhat resilient to any stones that may fly up.

71RESTO
Gearhead

Posts: 1655
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 07-08-2006 07:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71RESTO        Reply w/Quote
I agree Steve, number 3 is the way to go. The perfect restoration is all fine and dandy, but if you plan on driving the car and want it protected best then a good black paint is the only way. It will clean up easily, hide some of the road grime and be easy to touch up.

------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (under resto-351C-4V C6 auto)
M & M Member #730

68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 07-08-2006 07:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT        Reply w/Quote
I think #3 since you are not going concourse.

Barry70Stang
Gearhead

Posts: 306
From: West Monroe, La USA
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 07-08-2006 10:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Barry70Stang        Reply w/Quote
I'm all for #3 as well, do what makes you happy, after all, it's your car Kinda like I tell the wife when she chimes in on something I'm doing my way and she don't like it. Standard answer: This is my goat, I'll do what I want with it

Barry

Mach won
Gearhead

Posts: 265
From: Walnut Grove, Ca. USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 07-08-2006 11:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mach won        Reply w/Quote
Steve, that's what I did two years ago.

Since then, I've put 12,000 miles on the car, and it still looks great. The road crud easily wipes off.

Until I got the car painted recently, the underside looked better than the top.

And BTW, judging by your pictures, I ain't buyin' it you won't enter that car in SOME kind of car show.

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 07-09-2006 11:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
It's #3 across the board. I would want the protection more, just in case you're ever caught out in a Noreaster.

------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831

"Objects in mirror may mean they are losing".

68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-09-2006 03:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mach won:
Steve, that's what I did two years ago.

Since then, I've put 12,000 miles on the car, and it still looks great. The road crud easily wipes off.

Until I got the car painted recently, the underside looked better than the top.

And BTW, judging by your pictures, I ain't buyin' it you won't enter that car in SOME kind of car show.


Hey, after going to a car show last night and watching some slob leaning over another guy's nicely painted car oblivious to the fact that his big ass belt buckle was about 1/4" away from the paint while holding a coffee at a 45 degree angle, I am sincere when I say my car is going NOWHERE near a car show.


------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

Mach won
Gearhead

Posts: 265
From: Walnut Grove, Ca. USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 07-09-2006 04:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mach won        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Hey, after going to a car show last night and watching some slob leaning over another guy's nicely painted car oblivious to the fact that his big ass belt buckle was about 1/4" away from the paint while holding a coffee at a 45 degree angle, I am sincere when I say my car is going NOWHERE near a car show.




I know what you mean. I was at a car show a few weeks back, and some jerk comes by with his Rottweiller. It was about 95 degrees out, and the guy lets his dog try to squeeze under my front spoiler for some shade.

Needless to say, the dog didn't fit.

[This message has been edited by Mach won (edited 07-09-2006).]

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-09-2006 09:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
I went to another car show today and saw the same thing. 97% of the people are very respectful of other people's cars, the other 3% would just about have sex with them.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

Mach won
Gearhead

Posts: 265
From: Walnut Grove, Ca. USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 07-09-2006 11:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mach won        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
I went to another car show today and saw the same thing. 97% of the people are very respectful of other people's cars, the other 3% would just about have sex with them.



Yeah, with no protection!

68 Coop
Gearhead

Posts: 5847
From: Mesquite, NV. 89027
Registered: Oct 2004

posted 07-10-2006 12:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 Coop        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
watching some slob leaning over another guy's nicely painted car oblivious to the fact that his big ass belt buckle was about 1/4" away from the paint while holding a coffee at a 45 degree angle,



That is why my car will NEVER be mauled once it's done, I'm building the car for me, but if other people wanna be around it, respect it or feel the wrath.

------------------
William
M&M# 4256
MCA# 64831

"Objects in mirror may mean they are losing".

68 Coupe
289
C4
3:55's/Trac-Lok

buening
Gearhead

Posts: 317
From: Decatur, IL
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 07-10-2006 08:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for buening        Reply w/Quote
Actually Steve my 70 mach is a Metuchen car and it had the red oxide primer. I've seen the undersides of San Jose cars Green and many other colors. From all of my research and talking with MCA judges, the paint on the underside of the car came from a big tub of mixed leftover paint. Most of the time primer was the leftover paint. Other times it was actual paint used on the cars. If you stripped the undercarriage you probably will never know what color the undercarriage originally was. I've seen some funky colors under there and they were all original thoroughbreds.

------------------
1970 Grabber Blue Mach 1 H-code
1970 Fastback
2003 Torch Red Mustang

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-10-2006 04:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
That's for sure. On my '72 Sprint on the rocker panels and cowl area under the white and grabber blue paint was metallic blue.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 07-10-2006 04:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
Hands down winner would be #3.
Easy touch up is always a most!

------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics

14.05 @ 102mph

Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 4511
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 07-11-2006 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68        Reply w/Quote
So you never even considered rubberized paint over anti-rust primer? That's how I did all the underside, wheel wheels and floor pans, inside and out, on my 68. It isn't pretty but I'm confident those areas won't deteriorate for the next 100 years or more. I like to think the rubberized paint also helps with sound-deadening.

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-11-2006 08:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
Yes, as a matter of fact I'm going to use rubberized undercoating in the rear wheel wells and transmission tunnel.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-20-2006 07:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
Depends on how much the car will be driven. For the driver, rubberized undercoating is a must. It seems that for the show car, rubberized undercoating says you're hiding something.

RICKS
Gearhead

Posts: 438
From: Ocala, FL
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 07-20-2006 09:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RICKS        Reply w/Quote
Hey Steve, I'll toss you some thoughts on this...

1. As having been the lifelong "detailer" of my dad's cars, and then eventually my cars, I've spent many a day underneath a car on a lift, cleaning.... As such, I hate undercoating. Once it's dirty, it's a pita to get clean, the dirt collects in the low-spots of the texture, and it just always looks dingy.

2. I don't foresee you bombing down sloppy winter salted roads in your '70, and the occasional rainstorm doesn't hurt anything, so I think POR-15 would be overkill except for critical areas, nooks, crannies...

3. Rule # whatever in the unofficial car restorer's guide: Never worry about what people who don't know squat about old cars are going to think. You'll chase your tail. Those are the same people who would've painted your Mach bright red, bought an air cleaner from Discount Auto Parts, and installed a sunroof.

Quite honestly, I've found that red oxide hides dirt better than semi-gloss black. One rainstorm, and your fresh black undercarriage instantly looks "daily driver". I drove our '67 GTA to and from the MCA National they had at Charlotte several years ago, driving rain both ways, and the red-oxide underbelly looked great when I got back, it was only when you wiped your finger on it that you went "oh, that's filthy", and then I cleaned it. That's the same car that was on our cover years ago, showing the undercarriage. That shot was taken after the Charlotte show, and there's substantial mileage on that car post-restoration. In fact, that car was finished in 1980!

I think you can have your cake and eat it too when it comes to undercarriage. It's not a matter of what your color choice is, it's a matter of how and with what you coat the components. The less undercoating, the smoother the surfaces, the easier the periodic cleaning. As somebody else mentioned, often times an undercarriage swathed in black and undercoating just screams "a million hidden sins", even if the underneath of the car is damn nice.

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-20-2006 10:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
I've been told that primer is not meant to be a top coat and that with some kinds it is porous enough to allow water to penetrate through which then results in more rust.

Is there a recommended red oxide primer to use that can be left as a topcoat, or is it worth spraying a couple coats of clear with a flattening agent as a topcoat?

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-20-2006 06:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
Sam, the the original red oxide is still there and in pretty good shape under my car. Also, the right front fender on my car was from another car and as bad as it looked on the outside it still had the red oxide and body schutz on the inside of it like it was from a two year old car. That stuff is amazing! It's true what you said about standard primer being porious but red oxide is a whole different ballgame, there's something about the chemical property of it that really retards rust.

Rick, I didn't mean I was going to undercoat the underneath, I was just thinking of touching up the sound deadening in the rear wheelwells and transmission tunnel. Now you have me reconsidering the red oxide again. I do want to make it look like it did when it rolled out the San Jose plant doors in December '69... and I can imagine myself wiping road dust off the bottom, the stuff I used on the inside floors is as tough as nails. What brand of red oxide did you use on your '67?

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

RICKS
Gearhead

Posts: 438
From: Ocala, FL
Registered: Mar 2001

posted 07-21-2006 08:14 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for RICKS        Reply w/Quote
Geez, that car was done 27 years ago. I was 12. At the time, I remember pretty much everything in the shop being exclusively Dupont.

BTW, I haven't forgotten your wave washer questions. I just haven't gotten to it yet.

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-21-2006 08:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
It's true what you said about standard primer being porious but red oxide is a whole different ballgame, there's something about the chemical property of it that really retards rust.

Dangit! I hate it when I'm an idiot! I always thought red oxide was the color of the red primer, kind of like Candyapple Red is a shade of red. I had no idea that it was the name of a specific product.

OK, next question then. Would it be good to paint the entire unibody in epoxy primer and then coat the underside with red oxide, or don't waste epoxy primer on the underside and just go with red oxide on the bare metal?

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-21-2006 06:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
Don't feel like an idiot, it's all a learning process. Have you ever heard of 'red oxide fenders?' Those are the highly desirable early NOS fenders all the thoroughbred guys pay huge $$$$$$$$$ for? Well, soem say in addition to the red oxide identifying them as early NOS parts the red oxide helps preserve them amazingly, which after what's I've seen I'm starting to believe.

Here's what my floors look like after all these 36 years:

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

[This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 07-23-2006).]

71RESTO
Gearhead

Posts: 1655
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 07-23-2006 02:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71RESTO        Reply w/Quote
Hey Steve and Sam,
What about using Eastwood's Corroless (sp?) in the red oxide color? This is what I was considering using on my car and I've seen a couple of studies where this stuff will hold up to anything you can dish at it.

------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (under resto-351C-4V C6 auto)
M & M Member #730

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-23-2006 04:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Do feel like an idiot

Gee thanks big guy.

Duane, I've thought of that, but figured it was overkill for a car that will be kept in the garage from now on. Has anybody tried it? Does it go on smooth? I want to be able to emphasize my clean original floors, not hide them.

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-23-2006 05:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
Sorry about that, Sam, I meant to say 'Don't feel like an idiot.'

Correless is what I used on the inside floors and it's excellent. But when I wen't to order more, Eastwood doesn't seem to carry it anymore. I posted a question on their website forum, but they have yet to respond. I think they have just replaced it with their Rust Encapsulator but I'm waiting for confirmation of this.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-23-2006 06:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
So how thick of a coat is it?

Would you consider one of those "high-build" type paints that goes on really thick or does it go on like any other enamel type paint?

If its the kind of thing that is good protection, but not much to look at, I might do the same thing and go with that type product on the interior and red oxide on the underside/visible exterior.

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 07-23-2006 06:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Sorry about that, Sam, I meant to say 'Don't feel like an idiot.'

I figured as much, but it still sounded pretty funny the way you said it.

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-23-2006 06:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
I would guess it to be about 1/16" at most. What really sells me is we painted the inside floors of the car before it went to the bodyshop and they did a lot of walking in there to straighten the many dents in the roof and I'm sure they weren't all that careful laying down the many hammers and dollies they used, not to mention many body parts were stored in there and when we got it back after a wiping except for a scuff or two it looks like we just did it. In my experience, it's many times tougher than POR-15 which many people rave about.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

MLariviere
Moderator

Posts: 4235
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99

posted 07-25-2006 09:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MLariviere        Reply w/Quote
My personal experience with POR-15 has been negative. I would go with the Corroless. It went on well,covered all in one thin coat and didn't run easily. I did the inside floorboards with a 3" foam roller,and a brush for the tight corners,and it came out great! No roller lines or brush strokes. Too bad it will all be hidden with carpet.

That car is just amazing. I am under the car with Purple Power degreaser and a wire wheel here and there and it is comming out like new metal. The wire wheel is just to loosen the dirt a little bit.

[This message has been edited by MLariviere (edited 07-25-2006).]

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 07-26-2006 07:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
I've ordered some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. They verified that it is the replacement for Correless, with a few improvements, just like we thought.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

71RESTO
Gearhead

Posts: 1655
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 07-27-2006 10:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71RESTO        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
I've ordered some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. They verified that it is the replacement for Correless, with a few improvements, just like we thought.


That's good to know Steve. I planned on doing the interior and underside with it and am not sure I've got enough Corroless to do the whole job.

------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (under resto-351C-4V C6 auto)
M & M Member #730

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 09-28-2006 08:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
That Eastwood Rust Encapsulator does a nice job. This is just one coat:

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 09-29-2006 08:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
Those are the results from a 3" roller and brushes in the corners??? Wow, looks smooth like it was sprayed.

Nice work!!

71RESTO
Gearhead

Posts: 1655
From: Oregon, USA
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 09-29-2006 09:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71RESTO        Reply w/Quote
Sure looks good Steve!
That is the route I will be taking on my '71 when i get to that point.

------------------
Duane
71 Fastback (under resto-351C-4V C6 auto)
M & M Member #730

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 09-29-2006 06:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sigtauenus:
Those are the results from a 3" roller and brushes in the corners??? Wow, looks smooth like it was sprayed.

Nice work!!


Yes, they are. I can't take any of the credit for the work, my brother Mike painted it. He said this was the nastiest part of the restoration so far. The roller did an excellent job, leaving a slight orange peel finish that looks just right, you'd never guess he used a roller and the best part is no overspray anywhere.

That paint is rugged stuff though, smellwise. Mike was using a respirator and he said he couldn't smell it much but I was at the other end of the shop and if it would have been any stronger I think I may have been revisiting my lunch.

It's tough though! We painted the inside floor with it and I swear you can almost bounce rocks off it without hurting it.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

MLariviere
Moderator

Posts: 4235
From: Biddeford,Me.USA
Registered: May 99

posted 09-29-2006 09:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MLariviere        Reply w/Quote
The car came out nice and clean! The paint goes on well. You can put on a good coat and not worry about it sagging. The fumes are strong though. For anyone wanting to do this,a resparator is a must. The fumes collect under the car,and I have no doubt that they could kill you.

We are at odds with undercoating the tunnel and rear seatpans. I was leaning to not put it,but now I think it would be bad to have it be a buzzy ride. I'm sure it was there for something.

We did the fenderwells today in 3M #8882 undercar sealer. The stuff goes on well,and leaves a nice satin finish. We'll see how sticky it is in a week or so. I think it would be bad if this coating started running all over after we started using the car. My biggest concern is that the heat from the exhaust would melt the stuff sprayed in the seatpan/tunnel area.

[This message has been edited by MLariviere (edited 09-29-2006).]

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 09-30-2006 09:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MLariviere:
I think it would be bad if this coating started running all over after we started using the car. My biggest concern is that the heat from the exhaust would melt the stuff sprayed in the seatpan/tunnel area.

Mike/Steve,

What about coating a piece of metal and securing it - temporary style - next to the exhaust manifold/exhaust pipe of your daily driver.... that way you could test it's resistance to such heat....?

Ryan

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 10-01-2006 05:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
I'm not that concerned about heat after I've seen what undercoaters do at dealerships. I'm still undecided of whether we should black out the framerails but we can always do that at a later date.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

Tom G
Gearhead

Posts: 1069
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 10-02-2006 10:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom G        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
Don't feel like an idiot, it's all a learning process. Have you ever heard of 'red oxide fenders?' Those are the highly desirable early NOS fenders all the thoroughbred guys pay huge $$$$$$$$$ for? Well, soem say in addition to the red oxide identifying them as early NOS parts the red oxide helps preserve them amazingly, which after what's I've seen I'm starting to believe.

Here's what my floors look like after all these 36 years:


Wish I had that much floorpan to look at!

------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS engine RPM Air Gap 650 Holley DP Crane 1.7 roller rockers, Performer Nitrous, ceramic headers WC T5, cable clutch MagnaFlow SS kit W/X Pipe 3.89 9". SSBC 4 piston frdisc Clearwater Aqua, Vintage 40 series 16X8 215 front 255/50 drag radials 308 [email protected] 300 tq NA 385rwhp 380 w 75 shot 13.11 @111mph

88 GT (FiveOfastback's ride)
347 Twisted wedge custom HYD roller 565 lift 282 duration Street Heat, BBK headers X pipe
G Force 353 RWHP 393 RWTQ Red/Silver

Newest Project!
69 Boss 302 Acapulco Blue
65k original miles Matching number motor and trans

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 10-03-2006 09:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
The ol'roller trick! FYI my 68 cv is a Ca. built early car. The bottom, for want of a description, was something like 69 dark jade green. It is now satin black 7777. I don't like the red oxide look so whatever the final color it will not be red oxide. The paint looks great, though. Are you coating it black?

427Fastback
Gearhead

Posts: 530
From: N.Vancouver.B.C
Registered: Jan 2005

posted 10-04-2006 01:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 427Fastback        Reply w/Quote
I like it...My 68 is a San Jose car and it was/is red oxide underneath and for the better part still is.As my car is black I want some degree of contrast so I am going to redo it as it was.I too mulled it over for a extended period of time.

My 67 is a Metuchen car and will be painted black underneath as my floors are heavily modified to accomodate the Trans Am style side exit exhaust.The black will mask all the work..

I think you made the right choice.Red oxide is unique to San Jose and shows detail,cleanliness and just how solid and good your car really is..

Cory

------------------
68 Fastback 427MR 4 spd.Deluxe interior,8000 tach,140
speedo,am/fm,tilt.Currently under going a major re-fit.1967 Coupe awaiting transformation into a T/A clone

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 3237
From: Stanton, Michigan, zip 48888
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 10-04-2006 12:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
I'm still undecided of whether we should black out the framerails....

I like the idea of fogging the outer side of them with a satin black,,, I don't think I'd like the orange/red 'shining' out from under your blue exterior...

Just my 2 cents,
Ryan

sigtauenus
Gearhead

Posts: 3969
From: Va Beach
Registered: Jun 2000

posted 10-04-2006 01:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for sigtauenus        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by mellowyellow:
The ol'roller trick! FYI my 68 cv is a Ca. built early car. The bottom, for want of a description, was something like 69 dark jade green. It is now satin black 7777. I don't like the red oxide look so whatever the final color it will not be red oxide. The paint looks great, though. Are you coating it black?

Pete, that 68 I have right now that got burned up is a late Ca built car and it too has what looks to be a jade green-ish primer. I think that was what they describe as primer that's not really primer, but the leftovers of a bunch of different colors all mixed together.

mellowyellow
Gearhead

Posts: 8198
From: So. Fl.
Registered: Aug 2000

posted 10-04-2006 02:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mellowyellow        Reply w/Quote
That is an established fact re Dearborn plant back then. It would have to be the same in Milipitas/SanJose. I don't know where that car "grew old". It had a Maryland title on it at one time. It had a heavy slathering of undercoat. We(2) had it on a rotissiere and dumped it over on it's side on a Sat AM and started stripping with propane torch, scraper, coarse steel wool, mineral spirits. By about 7PM, it was pristine=MO undercoat.

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 10-04-2006 04:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere        Reply w/Quote
Yeah, the slop gray seemed to be used on the Dearborn and Metuchen cars while San Jose seemed to have gotten red oxide from all I've read so far and when we stripped ours it was pretty unmistakenly red oxide originally.

I was going to just paint it black but when Rick mentioned in a post above how black always seemed dirty it reminded me that my Sprint, which I always painted black underneath, never really stayed looking clean.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 - '70 Mustang Convertible - '72 Mustang Sprint - '94 F-150 XL

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2006, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[Build a free Mustangsandmore.ws Home Page!]

[Posting Pictures]

[About M&M][Members' Pics]

[M&M Conventions] [M&M Mug Shots] [Tech Articles]

[M&M Bookstore] [M&M Restoration & Tool Supply Store]