|
Author
|
Topic: Wiring is driving me nutz! (help again please)
|
Gary
Gearhead Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 09-01-2001 10:57 PM
 
I know I have asked some of the following questions before but I have to ask again. Man I can do just about anything on a car but freaking wiring!! GRRR!!!
I have the following to wire into my 1969 Mach 1.1.Holley blue elec.fuel pump
2.Elec. cooling fan
3.Autogauge oil/water gauges
I have the instructions for each item I need to install but they still seem vauge to me. Fuel pump: ground to frame fine, where do I wiring into the power? Ok I understand it has to be through the ign. but how do I go about doing that? Elec. fan: (16") mine draws 9.5 amps
Im concerned about load to wiring so was going to try going through the yellow blower wire for power but what if I use the blower while cooling fan is running too..overload?
Where and how to hook it up right is what Is need to know. Gauges: I have autogauge oil/water gauges, I need to wire them in so lights work in the gauges when the parking lights or headlights are on. I also would like the gauge lights to dim along with the other factory gauges but can't figure which way to wire them OR into. I have a diagram but trying to read it and figure out the headlight switch diagram is just plain greek to me 
Once I can get this stuff wired up I can go ahead and run the engine finally....help
I need some 101 here please.
[This message has been edited by Gary (edited 09-01-2001).]
|
Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
|
posted 09-02-2001 02:02 AM
For the lights you can tap into any of the light wires on your dash.My fan I hooked right to the fuse block with the heater fuse.------------------
65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop,cragers,primer black.
|
Gary
Gearhead Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 09-02-2001 09:11 AM
Ok, when mentioned as to "tap into" wire", what is the best way to do so? I have what is called wire taps that adds a wire, then is wraped around the wire which spikes through the exsisting wires insulation. Is this one good way of so called tapping into a wire?
I have seen where guys take a bare wire end and wrap it around one end of a buss fuse in the fuse box, this way does not seem like a engineered way of doing good wiring....sounds more like rigged to me.
|
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
|
posted 09-02-2001 02:35 PM
Gary, sometimes you get lucky and find a male spade connector at the fuse box. It's usually marked by a 'ACC' denotation. For items such as fuel pumps or fans, you'd want to wire a relay to safely handle the amperage load. A relay is a device that is switched on and off by a small amperage load and the heavy amperage is shut on and off at the relay, instead of running through your fuse block and ignition switch. By tapping into a line, they mean using it as a supply. I always use good quality crimp connectors. Also, I like soldering wires to the connectors instead of just crimping them. You can find a great assortment of connectors and relays at any Radio Shack store. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Keep your driveway ALL Ford!!!
|
SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 48752
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
|
posted 09-02-2001 02:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Gary:
I have what is called wire taps that adds a wire, then is wraped around the wire which spikes through the exsisting wires insulation. Is this one good way of so called tapping into a wire?
I have seen where guys take a bare wire end and wrap it around one end of a buss fuse in the fuse box, this way does not seem like a engineered way of doing good wiring....sounds more like rigged to me.
Those sound like what I know as 'Scotch locks.' you put the two wires in grooves in a plastic connector, then close it up and a guillitine type piece of metal gets crimped down and connects the two wires. Those are ok, but light duty. Didn't you buy a fuse strip a while ago for the purpose of running wires for your new accessories?
------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 M code 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 open
'72 Mustang Sprint Coupe 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Lok
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
'97 Probe GTS 2.5L DOHC
Keep your driveway ALL Ford!!!
|
Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
|
posted 09-02-2001 04:28 PM
Gary they make a brass piece that loop around the back off the fuse and has a flat tab for your wire to connect to.Dont wrap the wire around the fuse its self.Take Steves advice and go to a good electronics supple place or Radio shack.And get some good wire conttectors and the fuse taps.I allways wrap the two wires together 1st then solder the wires and then crimp them.I did use the ACC spot on the fuse block.Sorry about the sort respons last night I had one to many.Ron------------------
65 coupe with a stock 1969 351w,RPM intake,carter625cfm,shorty hedmen hedders,black magic electric fan,stock C4,peg leg 8" 2:80,Boss 429 hood scoop,cragers,primer black.
|
Gary
Gearhead Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 09-02-2001 09:34 PM
Steve, yes I bought a fuse strip but now feel I really don't need it just using relays for both fan and elec. pump. Things are going better now since I threw the stupid repo wiring diagram in the trash!! I never read directions anyway so why start now  All I need to do is find power through exsisting heavy gauge wires that are only hot when key is on, use a relay and inline fuse/s for the fan and pump and it's a done deal!
I tried reading the wiring diagrams but only got fustrated, the print is so small and barely ledgeable I gave up with it.
Directions....sometimes they are good to have but sometimes more confusing trying to figure them out than it has to be, if you think about what your trying to do and how it all works you don't need them!!! I am wondering though how reliable these relays are since iv'e never used them before, a fuse is simple to replace compared to a possible relay failure..humm? Guess a spare on hand would be a good idea away from home
|
franklin
Gearhead Posts: 131
From: VA
Registered: Nov 2000
|
posted 09-02-2001 10:35 PM
I think I would mount the relays out near the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid/battery connection is a source for unlimited power, and is where the factory gets it's power for everything anyway. But you would need a fuse mounted out there too. I think I would have 2 20amp fuses. Then feed your relays (which are probably 30amp?) and run 12 guage wire to the fuel pump and the fan and whatever else. Whats the use, in running those heavy wires to the factory fuse box, when what you are running is out in the engine bay anyway? You can run small trigger wires through the firewall for control of the relays. Remember wire size; 16 guage=10 amps
14 guage=15 amps
12 guage=20 amps
10 guage=30 amps
|
Gary
Gearhead Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 09-03-2001 08:18 AM
Thanks for the wire gauge=amp table, that is important to know. I'll have to decide where to put the relays as my batt is in the trunk and the starter solenoid up under the front fender. Im getting stacked up with leads to the solenoid so may go directley from the battery instead which has the extra post terminals (marine batt.)
|
460-67Stang
Gearhead Posts: 296
From: Idaho, USA
Registered: Feb 2001
|
posted 09-03-2001 10:20 AM
Gary,
You need a GOOD wiring diagram? I have a set I can scan and email to you. They are the best I've seen. Don't know the publisher, but they're in this HUGE (like 10" thick) repair manual that is about 25 yrs old.Anyhoo, let me know if you're interested. By the way gang, I have these diagrams for all other years as well. Let me know if you need one! See ya,
Brian ------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
14 yr project just completed! Took first place in Tri State Mustang Club 65-73 Modified class!!
'67 Mustang Coupe Restomod, 472 Motor at about 500 hp, C-6 Tranny w/high stall convertor, 9" rear w/3:50 gears and Detroit Locker, Power Disc brakes all around.
---------->>>>> Got Displacement? <<<<<------------
|
Gary
Gearhead Posts: 726
From: Sarasota, Fla. USA
Registered: Jun 99
|
posted 09-03-2001 10:33 AM
Brian, YES! if you get a chance please scan the diagram/s for me You know my address. I have the Osborn diagrams that are about impossible to read unless you have a mircoscope..lol
|
