Brought to you in part by:

.

Shop Eastwood for your Auto Restoration Needs!


  Mustangsandmore Forums
  '74 to '78 -- The Mustang II
  Crack by rear hatch window

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone! next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Crack by rear hatch window
77 Cobra
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Bladen,Nebraska
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 01-05-2003 10:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 77 Cobra   Click Here to Email 77 Cobra     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have a 77 Cobra,302 engine and I noticed a crack in the body on each side on the posts that run down the back beside the rear hatch up towards the top at the roof.I also saw this same crack on a car on E-bay that was up for sale.You could see that they had tryed to repair it.It was identicle to the ones I have in mine.Anyone else seen this on the fastbacks?I am guessing it is from the torque that the 302 has and the fact the car needs subframe connectors?I am building my own sub-frame connectors as I can't find anyone who makes them for the 77 mustang.I am building a pretty stout 302 for the car so it will have a lot more torque than the stock 302,plus the car will make an occasional trip to the dragstrip.Anyone who has noticed the same thing or knows is the torque what causes this let me know.I'd hate to have the car break in half on me.

IP: Logged

77sleeper
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Mesa Arizona
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 01-05-2003 07:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 77sleeper   Click Here to Email 77sleeper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
sorry about your crack habit,

BTW SSM (southside Machine) sells subframe connectors for the II, Call summit (not online) they can hook you up

more than likely though if you have metal working skill you can do a much cleaner setup

IP: Logged

Maxwell_fax
Gearhead

Posts: 221
From: Port Royal, PA, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 01-06-2003 07:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Maxwell_fax   Click Here to Email Maxwell_fax     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My '78 has the same cracks at the rear by the hatch, and in front by the top of the windshield.. They didn't appear untill after I did my engine upgrade..... And 77sleeper is right, South Side Machine Shop makes subframe connectors, but they are a pretty half assed setup.. Since I had them setting around too long before I got to put them on, I couldn't return the over priced box of left-over scraps.. I re-engineered their desgin a bit and it did make a much cleaner job, not to mention they are attached to the sub frames much more securely..

IP: Logged

77 Cobra
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Bladen,Nebraska
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 01-06-2003 09:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 77 Cobra   Click Here to Email 77 Cobra     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
How did you attach your subframe connectors?I am planning on using 3/8 flat steel and boxing in a frame connector on each side and welding them on to the subframes but overlapping the subframes and putting two bolts front and rear on each side then welding cross members in to stop body twist.Am I doing too much?Any advice would greatly be appreciated.

IP: Logged

FiveLiterDreamer
Journeyman

Posts: 99
From: Conway, AR
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 01-08-2003 03:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for FiveLiterDreamer   Click Here to Email FiveLiterDreamer     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
When I did the body work on my II, I sanded down in those areas b/c they were a bit higher than the surrounding areas. I actually sanded a hole in that area on one side b/c that is where they linked the roof to the lower body. Looked like they used lead to fuse the two pieces together. Newayz, thats why the cracks show up in that area. Guess its just the weakest spot and takes the brute of the torque.

IP: Logged

Maxwell_fax
Gearhead

Posts: 221
From: Port Royal, PA, USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 01-08-2003 06:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Maxwell_fax   Click Here to Email Maxwell_fax     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
They did actually use lead... Bak in the day that's how most body filling was done..

I used 1/8 in steel and boxed around the front sub-frames and my 1/8 inch box steel(whatever one calls the hollow square steel stuff?) I ran the box stuff back I believe 18 inches then I made a 90 degree out towars the rocker panel and another 90 degree towards that back so that it would line up with the leaf spring mount.. Then I sort of boxed in around the leaf spring mount and my box stuff again.. I made my 90's by cutting and welding the boxing.. If that makes any sense...

I have been considering another cross member at the first 90 but I'm not sure how I'm going to get it to clear the drive shaft and exhause without being any lower to the ground.

3/8" may be a bit of overkill (not that overkill ever hurts ) I just used the 1/8" stuff to save some weight, and that's what I had laying around.. (Recycled South Side Machine Shop sub connectors) I've put connectors on some Fox cars and they are usually only 1/8" or less..
Seems plenty sturdy... I could tell a difference as soon as I opened and shut the doors while the car was on the lift..


IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2003, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[Build a free Mustangsandmore.ws Home Page!]

[About M&M][Acronyms][Calendar][Chat][Classifieds] [Members' Pics] [M&M Mug Shots]

[ Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore] [Mustangsandmore.com T-Shirts][Tech Articles]