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Author
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Topic: Valve adjustment
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FiveLiterDreamer
Journeyman Posts: 66
From: Hot springs, AR
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-14-2001 11:47 AM
  
I'm sorry for all the posts. Its just that i have to go out of town to go to college on thursday and obviously have no way to get there. I'm trying to adjust my valves right now but ran into problems. The mustang II manual (haynes) says that w/ the cylinder #1 (front right) at TDC to adjust 6 (int.), 1 (ex.), 8 (int.), 1(int.), 2 (ex.), and 8 (ex.). It then says to rotate crank 1/2 turn after adjusting these valves and then to adjust 4 more valves, and then to rotate 3/4 turn and adjust 6 others. The book I've been following along in says to adjust diff. valves then what the manual is saying at these times. The book is "How to rebuild small-block ford engines by tom monroe w/ HPBooks." I've been following along in this book and checking it against my manual for accuracy. It has had very good information up to this point. I don't know which set to follow. Please help, it is very important that i do this asap. thanx
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FiveLiterDreamer
Journeyman Posts: 66
From: Hot springs, AR
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-14-2001 11:57 AM
I forgot to mention that my rocker arms are the design that came on the very late '78 models where the rocker arm sits on a fulcrum guide and then is held down by a bolt going through the fulcrum that sits inside the rocker arm. I don't know if this matters or not. thanx
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FiveLiterDreamer
Journeyman Posts: 66
From: Hot springs, AR
Registered: Feb 2001
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posted 08-14-2001 09:59 PM
Cancel Post. Problem fixed. This setup does not have adjustable rocker arms so you just torque it 18-25 ft. lbs. The 3 crankshaft rotations and tightening of valves is for the adjustable type. Learned alot today. Just in case anyone else gets confused too.
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Mark
unregistered
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posted 08-15-2001 09:27 AM
Let me throw my $0.02 in here. I have noticed the 'lazy' method of setting valves described in most manuals, where you turn the crank so many degrees and set a bunch of valves, is crap. Hydraulic valve trains have such a wide tolerance things have to be really screwed up to fall out of spec. The manuals method is acceptable. When doing a mechanical train I start on #1 tdc and work through the fireing order turning the crank as needed. Granted my experience has been with german V6, motorcycle 4s and my Toyota I4, it really does seem to quiet down the valve train when every cyllinder is set to TDC.
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Maxwell_fax
Gearhead Posts: 154
From: Port Royal, PA, USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 08-18-2001 12:00 AM
I have to agree with Mark there... Once upon a time I was adjusting valves on a 2.8 Chubby the way the book said... The thing ran like crap.. Readjusted them several times ad still no fix... I opted for the oil slick method and adjusted them with the engine running...
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