As a request out of the Sam's Place forum, here's what I am planning on my FFR. It's always been a dream to own one but I decided to jump in after watching Dream Car Garage one afternoon while fighting the flu. They were highlighting the SPF cars. So I started some research. My findings led me to FFR due to the chassis type and the system for putting one together. I am looking to build one that is somewhat period correct in looks with modern conveniences and safety.
My car building/restoring philosophy:
1. If you are planning to go, you better make it whoa. There are just too many cell phone talking, large SUV driving, Starbucks drinking, yelling at their kids (all at the same time) soccer moms out there that are in their own worlds while they drive.
2. Build what you like
3. Take the style from yesterday and update it with today's technology.
4. Rebuild or recondition all used parts. Nothing gets bolted on without being fresh.
5. If you can't figure something out, walk away and get a beer. Like I am doing right now.
FFR Mark III roadster kit
- 3 link rear suspension
- Fuel Safe fuel cell
- Streetperformer seats
- Wiper kit
- Aftermarket lower control arms, both front and rear
- Coilover shocks on all 4 corners
- 4 into 4 headers
- Single rollbar
- 351W/350-380hp, carb'd. The ultimate goal is to go to injected and supercharged and shoot for 450hp, but that depends on bonus budget
- Tremec TKO500
- 8.8" rear, 3.55 gears
- Cobra R disk brakes with 13" fronts and 11.65 rears, power assisted.
- Conversion to 5 lug all around
- SN95 spindles
- Fox body rear end housing
- Fox body pedal box (thanks Tj)
- E-brake assembly (anyone have one they want to get rid of?)
- Footbox vents
- Heated seats (those of you who have driven a convertible at 10,000' elevation will appreciate that)
- Expanded footboxes (Mark III boxes are pretty tight)
- Extended firewall (provide more room between dash and firewall for electronics, wipers, etc.)
- Autometer or Smith Traditional Gauges with reverse sweep speedo
- Lizardskin the cockpit for heat insulation, and Dynamat the inside for noise
- I like the look of the ignition lock set from a 66 Mustang so I am going to order one of those.
Good build ideas:
- Weld in ground studs in strategic locations
- Don't bother powder coating the aluminum panels as no one is going to see them anyway.
- Bed liner stuff on underside of body to prevent starring from rocks through the paint on the top.
- Install spats on the rear wheelhouses for rock chip reasons.
- Roll the edges of the fiberglass so it doesn't look like it came out a mold.
- Electrical cut off reachable from outside the vehicle (NHRA and SCCA)
I am thinking I will be on target completed and registered around $35k. Right now, most parts are acquired and I am well under that. I still need engine, tranny, and probably a host of small parts I will need as I go. I am projecting up to $6k in paint, unless I shoot it myself.
Let me know what you think. I think it's going to be a fun project and should be a kick in the shorts to drive. My 3 year is pretty jazzed up about it and keeps on me to get it done. One that concerns me right now is running vacuum brakes with that kind of horse. Any insight is appreciated.
1968 Coupe in Pieces
99 1/2 F250