I'm thinking it may make sense to replace my 1990 propane boiler with a more modern, more efficient unit, and I want to calculate the payback rate.

This house is tight, there are no drafts that I can think of. At doors and windows you feel nothing except for the glass and metal on the doors get cold. In fact it's so tight, too tight I often think, that if someone slams a door anywhere in the house you can feel it in your ear drums.

I know I have heat conduction through the windows and door, I meant to install storm doors last summer, but I kept putting it off. I would also like to see if I can get glass or plexiglass windows to go where my screens mount.

I should probably attack that front first come to think about it, rather than replacing the boiler. Although if I remember right, my Weil-McLain boiler was rated 87 efficient, and the Monitor boilers I'm looking at are claiming performance in the 92-97 range. {I wonder if that's like new cars that claim 27 mpg but only give you 20}

Lyle, I know you were referring to ground loop system. I believe the ground maintains 58 degrees below the frost line. But in an area that can see -25 or -30 below zero, that frost line can get down there.

I already have a functioning propane hydroponic heating system, I just want to make that system more efficient. I am looking at a Monitor boiler, though, like the Model MZ25C: http://www.savemoreonheat.com/residential_products/default.asp

quote:

---

Originally posted by 66fstbck:
I did buy a new Amana high efficiency gas furnace a few years back when we finally got gas service here. Sure beats the old oil unit !!! Biggest thing I can say about it is, the exhaust is PVC pipe and leaves the house at about 90 degrees as compared to the old exhaust that would burn the crap out of your hand if you touched it !!! So they are squeezing as much use out of the heat from the burners as they can.

---

My vent is stainless steel, but I don't think it comes out that hot either. I ought to see what temps come out of it.

I'm just going to install storm doors and windows this summer and see where I'm at then.

Thanks all for your input.

Now, back to my original question, does anyone know of BTU requirements and average heat consumption for specific house type charts?

quote:

---

Originally posted by SteveLaRiviere:
No, for the 2-3 weeks a year we actually use A/C our window unit is fine.

---

Wow... I actually had to run my AC for two weeks in December...

I couldn't stand living where you HAD to have A/C. I even go out of my way to make sure my cars don't have it. The only vehicle we have with A/C is Pam's car, and that's because it's just an appliance.

Here's a link to HEAT LOSS CALCULATIONS,, put together by CADET Electric Heaters.. Looks like all you have to do is plug in your location,, insulation levels,, windows,, etc..

http://www.cadetco.com/heatloss.php

How high are your Electric Rates compared to Natural Gas/Propane.. Basically you can convert all energy sources into BTU's per their units of measurement.. Then figure the efficiency of the system you are looking at.. If your duct work isn't insulated,, means big loss in efficiency..
Anyway,, you can take how much it costs to heat your house now (amount of KWH,, Gallon,, Cubic Ft.,, etc)and apply those figures to various heating sources..

I'm emailing you a "Builder's Field Guide" for Super Good Cents Homes.. It's written so that the common person can understand how an energy efficientit house should be built.. It's a large PDF file,, so be prepared for it..

There are some new electric heaters that people really like and studies show because they put off both radiant heat and convection heat,, and their comfort factor is so high that they are rated higher than 100%.. Electric Resistance heat is 100% effecient.. These heaters are called COVE HEATERS and they are installed a few inches from the ceiling,, pointing down at about a 45 degree angle,, because people don't live on the ceiling..

If you have an area,, such as your living room that isn't as warm as you like it,, they'd be a great supplimental heat source to add comfort to that area.. Easy to install,, and don't let them talk you into baseboard.. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME THING..

Here's a link that tells about them..

http://www.radiantsystemsinc.com/
and another link where you can get the results of a study telling about the comfort factor..
mailto:[email protected]?subject=report

Best thing to do if you want to learn more about them is to do a search on the web for "Electric Cove Heaters"..

A note on Heat Pumps.. They're only as good as their total installation.. It's a lot like a race car,, if everything is not designed to work together,, it will never run to it's potential..

http://www.aceee.org/consumerguide/topcashp.htm

Is that what you needed..

------------------
Don
6T6 Fastback
331 STROKER, T-5
Royal Blue Metallic w/SoonToBeNewAndImprovedFlames
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/BigD.html
First Time out..
13.384 sec @ 103.388 mph

figure one ton is 12,000btus

i hope this is what you are looking for, as for heat pumps the new ones work good down to about 40 degrees and then they don't do much the best configeration is to have a heat pump with gas back up or as emergency heat this envoles some contorl work but works well
so a 1000 spft house would need some where in the neighbor hood of 40,000 btu output of your furnace personally i would go not less than 60,000 just as a per caution for those cold days, the other way to go is a 2 stage gas furnace like i have. the first stage of mine is 54,000, and second stage kicks it up to 80,000 and it usually runs on first stage and also getting a electronic tstat that you can program will save you some as well you can set is back when nobody is home. Again i hope this helps

Yeah, a heat pump that punks out at 40 wouldn't be good here, we've gotten 80 degrees colder than that. When we get much below zero our current unit has a hard time keeping up, and I think we have a 42k BTU unit now.

That 2 stage sounds like a smart set up.

Thanks!