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Author
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Topic: Paint removal?
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RPM289
Gearhead Posts: 140
From: Phenix City, AL
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 09-16-2004 11:47 AM
   
Has anyone heard of, or used Un-Paint Corperation in Atlanta GA. They can submerse a car shell to remove all paint sealant undercoating etc. Then they nuteralize and prine the entire shell. I want to do this to my 66 Stang and would like to get feedback from someone who has used them before I drop my car off.Thanks,
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Mike 66' Mustang,289,4 speed overdrive.
95' Lightning #2218
65' Mustang,Tubbed, Rear cage ladder bars / coil over's, 5.13:1 N-case 9in.31 spline, 302 toploader 4 speed.
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Dubz
Gearhead Posts: 1781
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-16-2004 12:40 PM
Chemical stripper does work well, I used a jug of a strong acid to remove the paint on the torino, so if they have a huge vat that they can fit your car in it would sure be quick. Doesn't seem to effect the metal at all, and will remove all body filler as well. I havn't used the specific company you are talking about but maybe my input will help.
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 266
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 09-16-2004 02:59 PM
there's a product called 'Aircraft Remover'
most body shops use it. as an aerosol spray or brushed on from a Quart.
Works great, apply, wait a few minutes and your paint starts to bubble,paint comes right off.
dont forget your gloves. strong stuff.
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roger
Gearhead Posts: 202
From: ontario, canada
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 09-16-2004 05:01 PM
Your not going to believe this but an old bodyman showed me a trick, clean, no fumes way to take my car down to bare metal. With a razor knife!
Its amazingly easy once you get the hang of it, lots of razor blades ,but just a vaccumm to clean up. The paint comes off in sheets with no metal damage.
I did a complete fender in 15 minutes just to give you an alternative idea
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RPM289
Gearhead Posts: 140
From: Phenix City, AL
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 09-16-2004 09:11 PM
I have used the aircraft stripper stripping airplanes very messy and not easy on the fingers even with gloves. The razor blade idea is interesting I may give it a try. I left a message with Un-paint today guess they are closed due to Hurricane Ivan. I will let you know what I find out.------------------
Mike 66' Mustang,289,4 speed overdrive.
95' Lightning #2218
65' Mustang,Tubbed, Rear cage ladder bars / coil over's, 5.13:1 N-case 9in.31 spline, 302 toploader 4 speed.
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 2746
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 09-20-2004 11:49 AM
quote:
Originally posted by roger:
Your not going to believe this but an old bodyman showed me a trick, clean, no fumes way to take my car down to bare metal. With a razor knife!
Its amazingly easy once you get the hang of it, lots of razor blades ,but just a vaccumm to clean up. The paint comes off in sheets with no metal damage.
I did a complete fender in 15 minutes just to give you an alternative idea
So whats the trick?
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pmhvps
Gearhead Posts: 465
From: Lowville,Ontario,Canada
Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 09-20-2004 12:29 PM
Gel or Foam? 
Mike.
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Big D
Gearhead Posts: 5249
From: WELLS, NEVADA USA
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 09-20-2004 09:08 PM
How about having it blasted with Baking Soda.. There's a guy in Idaho that does it.. I had my engine compartment blasted by him.. It does a great job,, doesn't dig into the metal, in fact I've seen them demo it and they were taking the paint off next to the chrome trim and it didn't marked the trim..One thing though.. Make sure you have all the holes into your interior plug tight before it's blasted..  Why do I always have to find out the hard way..  ------------------
Don
6T6 Fastback
331 STROKER,, WC T-5
Royal Blue Metallic w/Red-Blue Ghost Flames
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/BigD.html
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RPM289
Gearhead Posts: 140
From: Phenix City, AL
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 09-21-2004 10:17 PM
I talked to Un-Paint and they dunk the body to remove all paint undercoating bondo etc. Then they can coat it with corrosion inhibitor if you are not going to prime it soon. Cost is 1.40 per pound. Anyone ever weighed there bare shell? I estimate it is around 600 lbs. I will get mine done in a couple of weeks and will let you know how it turns out.------------------
Mike 66' Mustang,289,4 speed overdrive.
95' Lightning #2218
65' Mustang,Tubbed, Rear cage ladder bars / coil over's, 5.13:1 N-case 9in.31 spline, 302 toploader 4 speed.
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Tbird
Gearhead Posts: 298
From: USA
Registered: May 2003
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posted 09-21-2004 11:46 PM
I am not sure I would dip the car. Three are a lot of sealer used in the car where it will be very difficult if not impossible to re-seal. If this was a drag car, I might conside dipping it.There are pro's and con's of any time of paint removal. The baking soda while good and does minimal warping of the metal, can make repainting very difficult if EVERY spec isn't removed. Soda will cause the paint to lift as will other type of abrasive material used to stip the body, but baking soda is the worse one to clean all of it off. Some places are now using styrofoam pellets to media blast a car. It seems to have less problems when it is time to put printer/paint back on the car. Also tends to remove less of the sealers used in seams. Any type of media you use to remove paint, the metal will need to be DA'd (orbital dual action sander) with 80-100 grit to insure all of the media is removed. The reason for this is the media tends to embed itself in the metal....small particles you can't see. I have some seam sealers and chalking left from my Fairlane project if you want them at a bargin. They are currently just occupying space on the shelf.
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Dubz
Gearhead Posts: 1781
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002
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posted 09-22-2004 12:57 AM
All the seam sealer ect will go with the chemical bath, so you'll be looking at doing that all over again, and there isn't ALOT of point in stripping off filler if it's not cracked, bubbled or falling out, cause it would if there was a problem underneath.i'd look at getting someone else to use aircraft stripper on the car would be my choice, then get the bad rusted areas sandblasted.
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RPM289
Gearhead Posts: 140
From: Phenix City, AL
Registered: Feb 2002
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posted 09-22-2004 09:11 PM
I don't mind redoing the sealer on the car after all it is 30+ years old. I have looked at using aircraft stripper and it is very messy and difficult to get out of and hidden areas it finds it 's way into. One negitave point with dipping is is making very sure EVERYTHING is primed and painted. Other than that you have a bare shell and you no exactly what you have in terms of rust damage etc. I know my car has been repainted 4 times so I really don't know what is under it all.------------------
Mike 66' Mustang,289,4 speed overdrive.
95' Lightning #2218
65' Mustang,Tubbed, Rear cage ladder bars / coil over's, 5.13:1 N-case 9in.31 spline, 302 toploader 4 speed.
IP: Logged |
tininjun68
Journeyman Posts: 73
From: Middlesex, NJ
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 09-23-2004 07:39 AM
There's a company here in Carteret, New Jersey that removes paint, rust, etc. with plastic media. It doesn't peen the surface like other abrasives and I believe it leaves the factory metal rust inhibitor intact. Maybe a shop by you can do the same. They also sell the abrasive so you could do it yourself.------------------
My interests? Finishing first w/o breaking out
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Buck252
Journeyman Posts: 30
From: Jacksonville,Illinois
Registered: Jan 2003
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posted 09-23-2004 10:45 AM
So lets hear about the easy amazing RAZOR KNIFE alternative PLEASE?
Thanks,
Buck.
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