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Author
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Topic: Question about relocating a battery
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f100cleveland
Gearhead Posts: 505
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 11-30-2006 10:15 AM
 
I'm in the process of relocating the battery in my truck. I'm putting it in the right rear corner of the box. I am using 2/0 positive cable up to the power side of the starter solenoid. The ground is also a 2/0 that goes from the battery down to the frame. Do I need to ground my frame to engine where my negative battery cable used to go to? Or do I need to run another ground from my battery to the engine?
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1982 Ford F100 2wd Shortbox. Powered by a 357 Cleveland w/ stuffed closed chamber 4v's and a Funnelweb. Full Roller c-6 trans with Art Car trans brake, custom 4200 JPT converter, a Gear Vendors Overdrive and 4.86 geared Detroit Locker equipped 9" rear. 336.6 RWHP @ 7000 rpm and 358.2 RWTQ @ 4500 rpm.
*Soon to be a 408 Cleveland* 1982 F100 351c 4v 1977 F150 460 Burnout Truck
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Rudi
Journeyman Posts: 87
From: Welland ,On., Ca.
Registered: Mar 2005
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posted 11-30-2006 10:37 AM
Yes, run a ground cable from the engine to the frame.
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capri man
Gearhead Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000
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posted 11-30-2006 10:42 AM
you can never have to many ground cables.  ------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-302-7.25 @93mph 1/8
1.54 60ft 50 % of the fun dragracing is meeting people who will give you the shirt off their back to wipe the grease off your hands.
M&M member #839 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/mike470/adel2.jpg
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roger
Gearhead Posts: 533
From: ontario, canada
Registered: Aug 2000
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posted 11-30-2006 02:45 PM
Buit, you realy don;t want that positive cable hot al the time, just when you crank her over.
If you go to madelectrical.com
Mark, who is an avid Ford guy, has a really clean rear battery relocation kit along with tons of great Ford electrical ideas to improve the sometimes questionable wiring.
There is lots of free advice at his site too, just don;t get Mark talking if your on long distance!!
Also, free info regaring converting to a hi-amp CS alternators, or the new Ford Alts.
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f100cleveland
Gearhead Posts: 505
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 11-30-2006 04:40 PM
quote:
Originally posted by roger:
Buit, you realy don;t want that positive cable hot al the time, just when you crank her over.
If you go to madelectrical.com
Mark, who is an avid Ford guy, has a really clean rear battery relocation kit along with tons of great Ford electrical ideas to improve the sometimes questionable wiring.
There is lots of free advice at his site too, just don;t get Mark talking if your on long distance!!
Also, free info regaring converting to a hi-amp CS alternators, or the new Ford Alts.
The way I have mine wired, I need to have it hot all the time. I have an aftermarket fuse panel that is fed off of that main positive cable. And that runs the ignition, waterpump, fuel pump, vacuum pump, electric fan, stereo, etc. But thanks for the info, I'll stop over at his site and check it out. ------------------
1982 Ford F100 2wd Shortbox. Powered by a 357 Cleveland w/ stuffed closed chamber 4v's and a Funnelweb. Full Roller c-6 trans with Art Car trans brake, custom 4200 JPT converter, a Gear Vendors Overdrive and 4.86 geared Detroit Locker equipped 9" rear. 336.6 RWHP @ 7000 rpm and 358.2 RWTQ @ 4500 rpm.
*Soon to be a 408 Cleveland* 1982 F100 351c 4v 1977 F150 460 Burnout Truck
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 11-30-2006 05:01 PM
I have mine wired so it's hot the time too. I just flip the kill switch when I'm not driving the car. No chance of the short or draining that way too.
As for the grounds, I have one from the block to the frame,one from each head to the fire wall,one from the fire wall to the frame. Over kill yeah I'm sure it is,but better safe ,,,,,  ------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs HOOD HACKERS DELIGHT!
My Pics 13.563 @ 108.64
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