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  Drag Racing tip? - sway bar

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Author Topic:   Drag Racing tip? - sway bar
dodgestang
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Cecil County, MD, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 11-09-2006 02:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dodgestang        Reply w/Quote
So I have a new motor and I'm heading out to the track. The new motor was 'supposed' to dyno with much larger HP numbers, but ended dynoing with slightly lower HP numbers (very dissapointing).

Regardless the goal of the car has always been 11.9 in basically street trim.

I am thinking about cheating a little bit this time though and unbolting the front 1 1/8 sway bar. If you've ever seen the pictures from my previous track outings, the car doesn't lift, it just chuggs out.

Anyway, with the old combo I was not able to stall it up very high because of where the power band started and poor brakes, however with the new combo I can stall it up to 2500 pretty easy foot braking it without over coming the front tires, so I expect more dramatic launches. (hence taking the sway bar out as well).

Anyway..I have heard advise of:

1. Take it completely off
2. Unbolt both sides
3. Unbolt one side

Now, I don't want to take it off completely because I want to run the first couple of runs with it on, and then unbolt it. So when it comes to unbolting it, why would someone say "just unbolt one side" won't this allow one side to lift faster than the other?

If I unbolt both sides, is there any fear of it moving around in its frame mounts?

------------------
Nick
65FB 408c AOD D.T.

Mustangs are like Rabbits, except mustangs can reproduce a-sexually.
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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 11-09-2006 03:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
Unbolt both ends, BTW did you ever get your car all fixed ?

------------------
oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

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13.563 @ 108.64

dodgestang
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Cecil County, MD, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 11-09-2006 04:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dodgestang        Reply w/Quote
Its been all fixed from the accident, drag raced last November (12.5 @ 108.8) and then blew the motor up in the spring and built another motor.

I got the car all back together about August last year. I think my motor blow up was the last bit of carnage from the accident considering the builder said I was hitting the heads with the pistons. I doubt it would have been together for 3 yrs if it was doing that from day one.

Here it is on the track at full launch lol(this is after I finished rebuilding it from the accident)
http://www.dodgestang.com/track1.jpg

Here's a current photo with the new hood to fit my new intake setup
http://www.dodgestang.com/motor06-2.jpg

65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 245
From: Syracuse, NY
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 11-09-2006 05:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver        Reply w/Quote
Where di you get the hood from? How does it fit? I've been thinking about getting that same style for my 65. Yours looks great. Don't mean to hijack your post.

Chris

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 11-09-2006 06:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
Take it off as it is heavy and the weight savings will also help.
It's only a total of 6 bolts to remove it.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First NHRA & IHRA 289 automatic Superstock Mustang in the TENS 06-99
First SS/MA in the TENS 04-03
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
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www.moneymakerracing.com

dodgestang
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Cecil County, MD, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 11-09-2006 09:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dodgestang        Reply w/Quote
yeah...but one of those bolts is holding my torgue strap

Scott H
Gearhead

Posts: 1480
From: Chicago area
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 11-09-2006 10:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Scott H        Reply w/Quote
So keep the bolt and ditch the bar

cracing
Gearhead

Posts: 640
From: Saltillo Miss. USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 11-10-2006 05:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cracing        Reply w/Quote
Remove front one & leave the rear sway bar if it has one.

dodgestang
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Cecil County, MD, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 11-18-2006 04:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dodgestang        Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the tip guys.

JUst got back from the track...did 4 runs with sway bar on....best was 12.4 at 110. Then I unbolted the sway bar...lined up....and broke the rear.

I'll get 'em next year.

ga289stocker
Gearhead

Posts: 129
From: Sugar Hill, Ga
Registered: May 2006

posted 11-18-2006 04:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ga289stocker        Reply w/Quote
Dang Nick, that sucks.....You had a 9" to right? Are you going to replace w/ the same gears? Man 12.40's roc's though, good job....I just got into the 13's w/ mine a few weeks ago, have AFR's and new cam as winter projects planned, Would love to break into the 12's...later

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1965 2+2
289 A code 4v, 4spd, stock heads 3.80 posi, 13.84 @ 100.65http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b320/ga289stocker/yard2.jpg

dodgestang
Gearhead

Posts: 207
From: Cecil County, MD, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 11-18-2006 04:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for dodgestang        Reply w/Quote
yes...4.11 trac lok unit with 28 spline axles

Been in there since June '03....15=16 passes and prob 5-6 thousand miles

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