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Author Topic:   Lakewood Bellhousing Alignment
68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 01-27-2006 01:59 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I��m trying to align a 15200 bell on a 302 and well I can��t believe it��s off by this much.

When I run a dial indicator on the crank and fly wheel I only get 0.002�� fluctuation.

When I run the dial on the inside of the opening I get 0.018�� fluctuation.

When I run the dial on the bell where the trans mounts I find the lower half needs to move forward by 0.015��.

I have a 164 tooth flywheel and it doesn��t rub anywhere so could the hole on the bell be off? Do I only accept that Lakewood has the hole in the perfect spot? I can get the dowel pins but I started to think that maybe it��s the bell and not my engine. The bell is new and the mounting surface on the engine is perfectly clean. I even went as far as sanding the paint off on the bell but all that did was get red dust all over me.

The Ford manual says that you could shim the bell but I don��t know if that such a good idea. I��ve been farting around with this for 3 days on and off trying to see if I missed something but all seems ok.

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Mark Ugrich
Journeyman

Posts: 37
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 01-27-2006 10:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mark Ugrich   Click Here to Email Mark Ugrich     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's been a number of years since I installed the lakewood housing on my 302 but I recall that it didn't fit all that perfectly.The .018 runout you're getting is about what I remember mine was too.You have to allow for the fact that these are hydro-formed and not forged.The bellhousing is just not that accruate. I know when I aligned the one I have it would change every time I tightened the bolts. It just about drove me nuts. I didn't get too concerned with the housing being parallel to the block, but I did use ofset dowels to correct the centerline. Make sure you use the block plate and tighten all the bolts, not just the ones that engage the block, that can change the readings also.

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 01-28-2006 08:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I didn��t notice a difference with just the block bolts compared to all of them. If the center hole is not accurate then why am I basing the alignment on that. Any Ideas of how to check for the alignment of the trans bolt holes on the bell? What I��m getting at is if I align the center hole, how do I know if the trans mounting holes are good?

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Mark Ugrich
Journeyman

Posts: 37
From: Waukesha, Wisconsin,U.S.A.
Registered: Jan 2006

posted 01-29-2006 01:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mark Ugrich   Click Here to Email Mark Ugrich     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
About all you can do is align the hole in the bellhousing with the centerline of the crankshaft.To check the trans bolt holes I would install the housing on your trans and check the fitment of the attaching hardware.As long as the input shaft is on center with the crankshft and the trans bolts easily into the bellhousing it should be O.K.

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 01-29-2006 03:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Anybody else? I just keep hearing how it��s critical to get things lined up as close to perfect as possible.

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Rory McNeil
Gearhead

Posts: 1689
From: Surrey, B.C. Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 01-29-2006 06:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Rory McNeil   Click Here to Email Rory McNeil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have scattershields in both my race cars, a Lakewood in the 428FE Fairmont, and a McLeod in the 85 Mustang Stocker. The Mustang also had a Lakewood when I first started racing it with a T5, I went with the McLeod when I switched to a Jerico. All 3 scattershields required offset dowel pins in order to get them "dialed in". In earlier times, I used to just bolt a scattershield on, and as long as the trans would shift Ok, and the clutch worked,I never gave it another thought. Now I know better. An out of spec bellhousing can prematurely wear out pilot bearings, input shaft bearings, and in extreme cases, gear damage, as well as clutch chatter. It is well worth the extra effort to ensure that everything is running true.

------------------
78 Fairmont 428 4 speed [email protected] 1.32 60 foot
80 Fairmont 302 5 speed 12.8@105mph
85 Mustang NHRA M/Stock 302 5speed. [email protected] 1.63 60 foot
59 Meteor (Canadian Ford) 2 dr sedan 332, auto
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4spd

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 01-30-2006 04:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So do I shim the bell? If I do then I would only need a 0.007 or 0.008" shim.

------------------
Ed S.

68 S-code FB GT 4spd(now C6)/3.25 PS PDB
68 J-code(now 289) Cp Sprint"B" C4/3L00-9" PDB PS AC Bla-Bla-Bla
99 F150 XLT Ext/cab, 4X4, 5.4L, 3L55

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TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 6124
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 01-31-2006 12:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Check for any burrs on the back of the block or front of the bellhousing, even a run in the paint can throw it off.

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 01-31-2006 09:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No burrs and no paint on the back of the engine or the front of the bell!

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-01-2006 05:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

This is a new bell by the way and not a beat up old one.

[This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 02-01-2006).]

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-03-2006 01:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This is what I got back from Lakewood/Mr.Gasket! Do you agree?

The only proper alignment check should be taken from inside the bore.

http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechResults.aspx?BrandID=1&ID=134114

I responded with this,

According to the factory Ford manual the Face Alignment must also be checked. This is done to ensure that the flywheel is parallel to the transmission mounting surface. The check is done by attaching the magnetic base to the flywheel and running the dial indicator on the outside face one inch out from the bore opening. 0.005�� is the maximum variation allowed.

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-06-2006 12:38 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
TT

------------------
Ed S.

68 S-code FB GT 4spd(now C6)/3.25 PS PDB
68 J-code(now 289) Cp Sprint"B" C4/3L00-9" PDB PS AC Bla-Bla-Bla
99 F150 XLT Ext/cab, 4X4, 5.4L, 3L55

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68 S-code GT
Gearhead

Posts: 3246
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 02-13-2006 11:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 68 S-code GT   Click Here to Email 68 S-code GT     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
TT

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