This update deals with something that most do not consider a performance part-pulleys. I needed something that would keep the belt on at high RPM's, but that would not break the bank. I settled on what I believe will give me the performance I want at a CHEAP price.

For the lower crank pulley, I wanted a single groove pulley because all I am going to run is a water pump and an alternator. A 351 C has a 4 bolt lower pulley and the single groove lower pulleys are kinda rare. I did some snooping through my pulley pile and discovered that a single groove lower pulley from a 289 has the same spacing from the balancer that I needed, except that the 289 pulley has 3 bolts that attach it to the balancer. I looked a little closer and realized that the 3 bolts were on the same bolt circle as the 4 bolt pulley that I needed. One bolt would line up and all I needed to do was drill the other 3 holes. The other snag I ran into was that the 289 pulley had a lip that centered it on the balancer, and the Cleveland balancer had the lip that located the pulley. I chucked the pulley up in my lathe and bored the center hole of the 289 pulley out to the C's balancer register size which was 2.380. I then used a 4 bolt Cleveland pulley to transfer punch the other 3 holes, and I now had a single groove lower pulley that I did not have to buy or go look for. I have seen the single groove 289 pulleys new and in chrome, so if someone wanted to do the same thing I did, a machine shop would charge a small amount to bore out the center, and drill the extra holes.

The holes with the blue marker around them are the new holes.

The upper pulley is a 2 groove upper pulley that is designed for a small block Chevy, but it had the exact spacing I needed to work on my Cleveland, it also had the large center pilot that my Stewart water pump had. I like to keep my cars billet-Proof, but once I spray some paint on it, it will look less flashy. I bought it used at a circle track swap meet for $10.00.

The alternator pulley is an old Moroso 4" pulley that will keep the alternator speeds down. It also came out of the pulley pile. I relieved it of some un-needed mass on my drill press.

The aluminum water pump is a Stewart Stage 3 Nascar pump that I bought used on Ebay for $46.00. This thing will pump some serious water, and it has a the 3/4" pilot which will match my upper pulley. It is actually a 302 pump, but I knew from past experience that a 302 pump could be modified to work on a Cleveland by removing the impeller cover and by just drilling a couple of holes.

The blue marker marks the holes that need to be drilled, use a 351C gasket as a template. The arrows mark the holes that will not be used on the Cleveland, they do not need to be plugged.

The final pic is a tip for people who are tired of replacing collector gaskets, I cut the collector ring off all my headers and replace them with a small tab that welds to the header collector, and a corresponding tab that welds to the exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe is expanded to fit over the collector, and the two are bolted together with a 1/4" bolt. You can seal the joint with a small amount of silicone, but I have never had a problem with them leaking. You will never have a leaky collector again.

I have the engine installed in the frame and I thought I would include a few pics before I cover it up with the body. I used some original 351 C valve covers that I welded the circle track breather tubes to. The air cleaner is an aluminum circle track item. I painted the engine Ford Gray, and the accesories are painted a metallic silver catalyzed urethane.

The item hanging off the right side of the engine is a belt driven Hilborn fuel pump that will not falter at high RPM's. The fuel line will be # 10 from the tank to the pump, and # 8 from the pump to the carb. I modified small block Chevy brackets to fit the Ford water pump, and I built the lower crank drive on my lathe. The dizzy is an Accel severe duty tach drive that will get one set of points removed and will trigger an MSD 6T box.

The 750 Holley VS carb got the axe when I scored an 850 Holley DP for $100.00 from a pawn shop a few days ago. The fittings at the back of the block are from the external oil line that feeds the #4 and #5 main and rod bearings for high RPM longevity. The oil pump and pan are stock 351 C items with an auxiliary oil cooler and a 3 quart Moroso Accusump which force feeds the oil system if there is a drop in oil pressure.

The tranny is an aluminum case Tex Racing Super T-10 with a Hurst Competition Plus shifter. I built the mounting bracket and the linkage is made from 3/8" aluminum tubing with 3/8" rod ends. The bell housing is McCleod that was re-drilled to work with the T-10. It was lightened and sprayed with the silver metallic paint. The fitting at the lower left of the bell housing is for the Ram hydraulic throw out bearing. The tranny cross member is made from 1 1/2" square tubing and bolts to the stock location on the frame. The headers are Hookers that I bought with a couple hundred other sets last year, they are for a '69 Torino with a 351 C.

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Originally posted by 68 Coop:
Is there a PCV set-up for the engine, or does it not need the valve??? I see 2 oil filler caps, but they're on the same head. Same principal???

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No PCV valve on this engine, just the 2 breathers. They are on th same side because circle track cars always turn left, and this is a circle track themed car.