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Author Topic:   Tight Pinion
kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3226
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 06-07-2005 10:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
With the whole rear end out from under my car, I started inspecting the third member for cracks and wear, I noticed that when turning the pinion over that it is tighter than it should be. I had planned on changing yokes anyway so I loosened the pinion nut with the impact wrench. After the first hit with the impact wrench, which did not loosen the nut, the pinion turned free. I went ahead and changed yokes, same style and part number. When I tightened the nut again, the pinion is very tight again. Loosen it slightly and it turns free again. Do I need to break down the pinion assembly and install a new crush sleeve? I feel the bearings are in good condition. Less than a year old.

Mike

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9476
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 06-07-2005 10:58 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike,

Yes, install a new crush sleeve. It shouldn't be hard to turn. Check the bearings while you have it apart.

SteveW

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2898
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 06-07-2005 11:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike do you have an Inch lb Torque wrench, dial or beam style? You need to install a new crush sleeve and torque it down to spec.. Preload on the bearing for my set ups is 25-30 INCH lbs to start it turning, then 11-15 to keep it turning. BUT I have one of those aluminum retainers with that big roller bearing in it. Now might be a GREAT time to buy one of those. $100.00... I just sold one

Alex can probably tell you what the ft/lbs torque spec is. Seems like I remember him saying 90-110 ft lbs? but don't quote me on that, he'll come along and say hopefully.
JS

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9476
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 06-07-2005 11:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The torque required to crush a crush sleeve is over 200 ft lbs. Probably 250

SteveW

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2898
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 06-07-2005 11:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I figured I'd be way off LOL

Mine has a solid spacer. I use the inch lb wrench

------------------
JS
"never submit yourself to scientific tests no matter how bad you need the money, for all you know they could have erased your memory and YOU WERE REALLY SOMEBODY BEFORE"
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3226
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 06-09-2005 10:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
What are the benefits, or pros and cons of using a solid spacer in place of a crush sleeve? Does it require the use of a Daytona support. How would you determine the thickness? You've got my interest up...

Mike

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9476
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 06-09-2005 11:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike,

A solid spacer with shims is much easier than crushing a crush sleeve! It's also tougher as the crush sleeve could crush further with shock loads caused by racing. With the spacer you just add shims until the pinion turns with a little drag as jerry said, using an inch pound torque wrench. I've used both and prefer the spacer.

SteveW

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9476
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 06-09-2005 11:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
And, no it doesn't require any special pinion support.

SteveW

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3226
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 06-10-2005 11:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Steve,
Dumb question, with the solid spacer, where would the shims go? I assume that it is trial and error on the initial setting, to add shims would require the removal of pinion nut and yoke and top pinion bearing? I'm confused on the set up.

Mike

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9476
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 06-10-2005 11:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kcode:
Steve,
where would the shims go? I assume that it is trial and error on the initial setting, to add shims would require the removal of pinion nut and yoke and top pinion bearing? I'm confused on the set up.

Mike


Mike,

Yes it's trial and error, and the shims go with the spacer to make the spacer wider or narrower. You just pull the yoke and the outer pinion bearing and add or remove shims 'til you get the right bearing preload as measured with an inch pound tourqe wrench. It's a lot easier than crushing a crush sleeve.

SteveW

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9476
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 06-10-2005 11:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
p.s.

Don't install the seal until the gears and the preload are set. Once everything is set right then seal everything up and torque all the bolts with locktite. Good luck,

SteveW

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mizry
Journeyman

Posts: 67
From: ca
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 06-11-2005 01:32 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mizry     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You can use a steel tube and press to set up pinion bearing preload with solid spacer. I found a steel tube that I use instead of the yoke and place the assembly in a hydraulic press, a little bit of pressure and rotate the support, easy to adjust shims that way, dont have to assemble and dissasemble yokes. when the support has that certain bearing drag then you can install the yoke and hit the nut with the impact.

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