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Author Topic:   Which 460 block?
CometGT1974
Gearhead

Posts: 413
From: Asheville, NC USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 04-27-2005 04:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CometGT1974   Click Here to Email CometGT1974     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i'm looking for a 460 block for a race application, which years are more desireable and should I stay away from any years? I've heard of different deck heights, can most of them be decked to a desireable deck height? Will a stock 460 block handle a consistent 1,100 horsepower? Any help or info on this is greatly appreciated since I am mostly a small block racer!

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bonfire
Journeyman

Posts: 25
From:
Registered: Mar 2005

posted 04-27-2005 05:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bonfire   Click Here to Email bonfire     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you can locate and old SCJ block with 4 bolt caps, that'd be nice. I'm using a D1VE block and the EngineSystems 4 bolt conversion. 1100 horse is pushing it either way in my opinion. If i was going that big on power, I wouldnt want to skimp on a stock block and likely and expensive rotating assembly and induction. Personally, I'd opt for an IDT block.

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F551
Gearhead

Posts: 263
From: Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 04-27-2005 11:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for F551   Click Here to Email F551     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with the Bonfire! If you are serious about 1100HP don't mess around. $2600 US at Flatlander for the IDT is cheap, gets you a fresh block with steel caps, designed for that power level.

When we freshened our 500 this spring we found #2 cap broken in 2 pieces. We thought about going with the 4 bolt conversion but have ended up ordering a girdle. Our combo is 650HP range - gonna try some Super Street racing this year. So we aren't after huge power. Lucky nothing else got hurt!

Our logic with the girdle versus the caps is that if we hurt the block chances are the caps won't fit up to another block while the girdle is a simple bolt on - we hope.

------------------
Fred
68 Mustang 500CID/Powerglide - "No Tubs"
86 Mustang GT Cobra

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 1049
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 04-28-2005 05:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Pre 71 blocks have a 10.300" deck height. 71 and up are 10.320". Most of the shelf stock pistons are for the 10.320. I have a C8 block with Probe shelf stock flat tops. The pistons have been milled .010 and are .005 out of the hole. With a undecked later block they would have been .005 below deck. All the aftermarket blocks are 10.320.

I also agree to get an aftermarket block if you are looking at 1100 hp. The Elminator is a great piece and has 5 variations, 4 that have 4 bolt mains on all 5 caps. Thet run from $2000 to $2700. The come pretty much ready to go. Only a final bore hone is needed. The Ford Racing A460 block is strong also, but it only has 4 bolts on the center 3 and needs more final machine work on top of the $2200 cost.

Eliminator:
http://www.eliminatorproducts.com/

A few stock blocks can be made to work at the level for a little while, but longevity is chancy at best. By the time you are donw with the required machine work and upgrades you'll have about $1600 in it, so the $2K aftermaket blocks look worthwhile. To make one last even any time you need a two bolt D0VE-A block. This has the same thick main webbign as the 4 bolt SCJ block. Havei tconverted to aftermaket 4 bolt splayed main caps from Blue Thunder or Program Engineering. These caps are much stronger than stock 4 bolt caps. The splayed outer bolts help also. I've never seen a broken aftermaket cap, but I've seen several broken stock 4 bolt caps. In addtion to the caps (and line bore/hone) you will need to fill it with hard block, bore and hone it and do a whole slate of oil system mods. The aftermaket blocks don't need the oil mods as they have dedicated priority main oiling systems.

David Cole

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557 BBF Powered, alcohol injected rear engine dragster. 4.90 @ 143 1/8 mile. 1.09 60'. I've got to be crazy to drive this thing.
SC/ET #2729

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ted
Journeyman

Posts: 75
From: Central Texas
Registered: May 2003

posted 04-28-2005 10:23 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ted   Click Here to Email ted     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Look for a block that has 6.300" long cylinder walls instead of the normal 6.000" inch long walls.

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Ted E.
Big inch Fords are plenty fast, but Y-Blocks's are fun when they run in the low 9.60's @ 135mph.

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2904
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 04-29-2005 01:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
1100 hp would need an IDT or A 460 Ford block, or the aluminum block.

You can safely run 900 Hp through an early 4 bolt block. As a general rule anyway.

I've seen them tear up at less and we've all seen that exception to the rule where you wonder how that thing is living doing that!

------------------
JS
"never submit yourself to scientific tests no matter how bad you need the money, for all you know they could have erased your memory and YOU WERE REALLY SOMEBODY BEFORE"
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag

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CometGT1974
Gearhead

Posts: 413
From: Asheville, NC USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 04-29-2005 10:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for CometGT1974   Click Here to Email CometGT1974     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for the help, now since it looks like i'm gonna have to go with an aftermarket block, I wonder if it should be a small or a big block? I'm wanting to make a solid 800-850 horsepower with an additional 300 shot of giggle gas. I figure this will put me at the power level needed to run in the class that i'm pursuing. So which should it be, a small or big block? This should get interesting!!

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2694
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 04-29-2005 04:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ted:
Look for a block that has 6.300" long cylinder walls instead of the normal 6.000" inch long walls.

How common are these, and where are they usually found? That is quite a difference in length.

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

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Dave_C
Gearhead

Posts: 1049
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99

posted 04-29-2005 04:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dave_C   Click Here to Email Dave_C     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by n2oMike:
How common are these, and where are they usually found? That is quite a difference in length.


The D9 and later truck blocks have the longer cylinders. I have personally measured 2. One was .250 longer, the other was about .280. The .280" longer one is in a Ford 460 crate engine.

The drawback to these blocks are thinner cylinder walls. Pre 71 blocks go .080 over with ease. Some (with a sonic check) will go .140 over all the way to a 4.500 bore. Most of the most common D1 blocks (made 71-78) will go .080 with a sonic check. The D9 blocks get chancy over .060

BTW, Ford uses the D9 blocks in their crate engines. But, all of those are only .030 over. Even the 514. Most of the 514 kits out there use a 4.150 stroke X 4.440 (.080 over) bore. Ford uses a 4.300 stroke X 3.390 (.030 over) bore.

David Cole


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557 BBF Powered, alcohol injected rear engine dragster. 4.90 @ 143 1/8 mile. 1.09 60'. I've got to be crazy to drive this thing.
SC/ET #2729

[This message has been edited by Dave_C (edited 04-29-2005).]

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jsracingbbf
Gearhead

Posts: 2904
From: Batesville,MS. , U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 04-29-2005 08:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for jsracingbbf   Click Here to Email jsracingbbf     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by CometGT1974:
Thanks for the help, now since it looks like i'm gonna have to go with an aftermarket block, I wonder if it should be a small or a big block? I'm wanting to make a solid 800-850 horsepower with an additional 300 shot of giggle gas. I figure this will put me at the power level needed to run in the class that i'm pursuing. So which should it be, a small or big block? This should get interesting!!

a solid 850 on motor you could run the BBf stock block and spray it occasionaly. Lot's will disagree with me but I've seen too many do it and live for many passes. You have to hard block the water jacket though. Street driving will be trouble.

Ocassionally being the key word..

if money is no issue the buy the aftermarket big block and you can make the 1100 hp on motor alone.

------------------
JS
"never submit yourself to scientific tests no matter how bad you need the money, for all you know they could have erased your memory and YOU WERE REALLY SOMEBODY BEFORE"
69 Mustang Pro ET Drag

[This message has been edited by jsracingbbf (edited 04-29-2005).]

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