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Author
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Topic: Junkyard hunt...brakes
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 1046
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 03-17-2005 06:46 PM
   
Hi guys,Looking for what cars might have proper brakes for a 9" rear. We have my brother's 66 coupe in the chassis shop. It's getting a 9" truck rear narrowed to fit. Also have a set of Cal-Tracs and new leaf springs ordered from Calvert. The rear end has big bearing housing ends. The brakes are large 11X2.5 drums. The drums have the large truck lug pattern and won't work. We have 2 choices. 1. Find some 11X2.5 drums with a car bolt pattern. I know the 65 galaxie was set up like this as this was the setup I used on my 69. Any others? 2. Find some smaller brakes with the car bolt pattern, but have backing plates that fit the large bearing housing ends. What applications should we look for. David Cole ------------------
557 BBF Powered, alcohol injected rear engine dragster. 4.90 @ 143 1/8 mile. 1.09 60'. I've got to be crazy to drive this thing. [This message has been edited by Dave_C (edited 03-17-2005).]
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XR7
Gearhead Posts: 147
From: north Idaho
Registered: Mar 2003
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posted 03-17-2005 06:55 PM
I have a truck housing that I might narrow for my car too. I was thinking of using those inexpensive disc conv. I see on EBAY.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42605&item=7948684487&rd=1
I guess you could weld small bearing ends on the truck housing and use the old brakes too. I would think those big old drums would be heavy! Maybe you could redrill them if nothing else? ------------------
68 Cougar XR7, 428 4-speed, Best ET 6.82 @ 101 1/8, 10.69@ 127.44 with 1.51 60 ft. Street legal all steel car w/ full interior.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 26811
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-17-2005 07:09 PM
65-72 full size Ford/Merc
68-79 Fairlane/Comet/Cougar/LTD II/Torino/Montego/T-brid etc HD and wagon.
All were 4.5 bolt circle and offered 11 x 2.5 rear brakes at one time or another.
There were differences in the drum center hole due to varying axle usage.
Also, don't rule out a set of front drums from a old 63-68 full size car Dave.
Ford or Merc
Most were 11 x 2.5 and......
you can remove the hub by pressing out the studs and use the drum on the rear. 
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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 6395
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 03-17-2005 07:16 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Dave_C:
The brakes are large 11X2.5 drums. The drums have the large truck lug pattern and won't work.
My granada had truck brakes when we got. When we switched to car wheels, we just had the drums redrilled for the smaller pattern. It never hurt anything. That was over 10 yrs ago, and the kid who has the car now is still running the same drums.
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Dave_C
Gearhead Posts: 1046
From: Gadsden, Al
Registered: Aug 99
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posted 03-19-2005 08:27 AM
Thanks guys,Problem solved. Went to the junkyard yesterday looking around for brakes. Scored by buying a complete 9" from a 70's Ford Elite. We'll narrow it instead of the truck rear end. It's got 11X2.5 drums with the correct 5X4.5" bolt circle for the wheels. Appears the brakes were rebuilt not long before it was junked. We'll get some new wheel cylinders just in case, and it'll be good to go. The best part is that it's got the "new style" or "Torino" big bearing housing ends. From what I understand these are the correct ends so later on we can do the low buck rear disk swap using Ford Explorer rear disk brakes. Not too shabby for $100 + $20 for them to pull it from the car. The chassis guy was going to sell us the truck rear end for $75, but we would still have had to buy all the brake parts. David Cole ------------------
557 BBF Powered, alcohol injected rear engine dragster. 4.90 @ 143 1/8 mile. 1.09 60'. I've got to be crazy to drive this thing. [This message has been edited by Dave_C (edited 03-19-2005).]
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 26811
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-19-2005 08:35 AM
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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,'04 &'05
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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89_coupe
Gearhead Posts: 248
From: Ontario (Upstate), NY
Registered: Mar 2001
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posted 03-20-2005 04:49 PM
By far the best rear disc swap that basically bolts on and stops great is the Explorer rear discs off the 8.8. The 11.5" rear disc assemblies bolt on the 9" housings and work awesome. I have them on my 68 Falcon wagon and will be using a set for my Pinto when I get the rotors drilled for a Pinto 4 lug pattern. They are about $200 after shipping on Ebay and come with new pads and freshly turned rotors. All you need to get yourself is the adapter to use the brake hoses that come with the calipers to use with you existing hard lines on the rear housing. Very simple and effective while being more affordable than any other rear disc swap.------------------
Kent '68 Falcon wagon stock 289
'65 Fairlane 500 wagon 10.5:1 351W
'78 Fairmont wagon 10.5:1 302
'76 Pinto wagon 392 stroke
'01 Focus SE DOHC 2.0L
'04 Explorer XLT 4.6 3.73 trac lock What is this FE fixation for which there seems to be no real cure? Something about wanting to spend twice as much money to go half as fast for one third the number of passes between explosions and not being able to find parts to fix it when it does explode. Pinto Wagon 392W 15:1, Iron Pro Topline 64/215s ported to 237cc, angle milled .115" to 52.5cc chambers with 2.08/1.6 valves, ported Super Victor, 1.72 rockers, Isky solid roller (290/300 adv, 256/266 at .050", .650" net lift, 108LSA/108 ICL), Crane Pro Series solid roller lifters, 9375 1050 Dominator, Victor water pump, billet 9 key timing set, custom 1 7/8"-2" step headers, 3.5" H-pipe and Hooker Aero Chamber mufflers, C4 w/9" 5000 stall, 4.30 gears, 28/10.5/15 MT ET Drags, 3200#s w/o driver.
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 6000
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 03-20-2005 07:18 PM
Exploder brakes only bolt to the odd big bearing 3/8" bolt housing ends, not very common on most rear ends. For Mustangs, Fairlanes and the like you can adapt Crown Vic brakes, need to cut the housing flange lip down and use a spacer/washer behind the bearing to fill the gap from the thicker backing plate.
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