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Author Topic:   331 update and questions
indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 2690
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 02-11-2005 07:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
OK, well im still building
Thanks to the advice from you guys my block is honed and my rings are all filed.

I need you folks to check my work here.

I have had the block honed and checked, its got the cam bearings already in it and is basically ready to build

I think my next steps are:
1)get the crank balanced
2)dry assemble to check for clearances
3)check bearing clearance and endplay?
4)assemble short block

Am I missing anything? I can buy plastigage from the machine shop for doing the bearings but how do I check endplay? Can I use my feeler gages for that?

One further question. I had the machine shop tap the two front oil galley plugs and they inserted threaded plugs. I was told by a member I respect that I should drill a small hole (1/8 inch?) in one to allow oil to flow out onto the timing chain. I have a melling HV pump by the way. So which plug do I drill out? How big should the hole be?

In case you cant remember (since it going so slowly)
its a '72 302 block
Scat 9000 crank (3.25 stroke)
SRP forged Pistons
Scat I beam rods with the upgraded bolts
Clevite bearings
Speed pro file fit rings
I also have the Scat 28 oz flexplate and a 28oz balancer that I will be using (and will take to the machine shop for the balancing procedure)

I get a bonus first week of March which will afford me the luxury of buying most of the rest of the engine - which I want to be some kind of roller cam (have not decided solid or hyd yet) and AFR 185 heads. RPM airgap intake, and flowtech headers to come as well.

(I will also need recommendations on a carb - I will start out with the current carterbrock 600 because I know it works and use it to break the engine in)

hey thanks for you help and advice - I wouldnt be doing this is if it wasnt for you guys and your experience. I would have bought a crate motor but this is more fun!

------------------
'68 coupe, '66 289 C code
engine, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 2690
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 02-11-2005 07:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
While i was at it - ive added a couple more pics to the buildup page.

http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/newengine.htm

Any help/comments appreciated

------------------
'68 coupe, '66 289 C code
engine, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm

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whiteknight289
Gearhead

Posts: 1391
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 02-11-2005 09:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for whiteknight289   Click Here to Email whiteknight289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by indyphil:

I think my next steps are:
1)get the crank balanced
2)dry assemble to check for clearances
3)check bearing clearance and endplay?
4)assemble short block


Just checking, but do you have a list of parts to give the machine shop when they do the balancing? It should include all pistons and rods, at least one set of rings, one set of rod bearings, flywheel and harmonic balancer.

Sounds like you're doing a nice build-up

Scott

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 2690
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 02-14-2005 07:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, im going to give them all those parts for the balancing. I guess im thinking that maybe I missed something when it comes to the assembly checks. Are there any other checks I can do to make sure the shortblock is good?

------------------
'68 coupe, '66 289 C code
engine, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm

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