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Author Topic:   I lost motor
mike70351w
Journeyman

Posts: 82
From: Altus AFB OKlahoma
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 02-09-2005 08:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mike70351w     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It's obivious to me I'll need a new motor. Motor will not turn over with starter or with breaker-bar on crank. Motor was running fine and started lugging and just quit. What was I doing? Revving the crap out of it on the back road. If my tach is correct I observed needle hitting the 7000 grand mark shifting...ouch!!! I did not hear any bang or loud clunk however.

Okay enough of the said story. I'm ready to get car back on the road so If motor is locked from overheating or whatever happened my world SR heads should still be good, so a short block is all I need. Most of my search for short block states block is blanced for 28oz. What does that mean? My busted block is a 76 block. Flywheel is a 1970/157tooth.
I'm looking at the 357 base short from this company treperformance.com, anyone head of them? A street shortblock for $1095 sounds tempting.


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whiteknight289
Gearhead

Posts: 1391
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 02-09-2005 08:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for whiteknight289   Click Here to Email whiteknight289     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Once upon a time (1978) I was cruisn' along in my 69 Mach with 351w, suddenly and without a sound, the engine just locked up. Towed it home and when I removed the intake there where lots of little aluminum pellets. It had dropped an intake valve in the #7 cylinder, shattered the piston and scattered the bits up through the intake. When I took off the cylinder head the piston was easy to remove, just reached down into the bore and used the firmly embedded valve as a handle and lifted it right out.
I sleeved the block and drove it for several more years.
Scott

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mike70351w
Journeyman

Posts: 82
From: Altus AFB OKlahoma
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 02-09-2005 08:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mike70351w     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
By the way
Busted motor was a 351W with cast piston and the usual go fast goods. I'm certain it was good for high 12's. I want my replacement to be capable of the same. I already have RPM heads, 700DP, hedman headers, C-4, 3200 stall, 3.89 D-locker. Cam that I installed in Nov 04 is 502/520 lift & 226/236 dur so I'm thinking to reuse. If it's good.

Thank

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kcode
Gearhead

Posts: 3232
From: alvaton,ky,usa Suburb of Bowling Green, M&M #79, MCA #29208
Registered: Jun 99

posted 02-09-2005 10:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kcode   Click Here to Email kcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Just for an idea, Sunday was the annual one day AACA swap meet at the Tennessee Fair grounds in Nashville. One of my friends bought a complete 351 2V windsor, including auto trans, A/c comp, alternator, carb and aircleaner. The motor was just pulled from a mid-seventies Torino with 60000 miles for $450. He needed the engine and tranny for a 36 Ford he is building. Don't cut yourself short without checking out some junkyards first.

Mike

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mike70351w
Journeyman

Posts: 82
From: Altus AFB OKlahoma
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 02-10-2005 12:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mike70351w     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If I was'nt at Altus AFB in tennie wennie Altus OK I'd consider finding a core to rebuild.
Autozone & Oreily is the speedshop here. A complete shortblock would give me a solid foundation.

My head looks good from the top so I'm sure problem is on bottom end.

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bob6364
Gearhead

Posts: 275
From: griswold,ct usa MCA#59447
Registered: Dec 2004

posted 02-10-2005 07:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bob6364   Click Here to Email bob6364     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mike70351w you can't tell anything from looking at the outside start pulling that sucker apart look carefully at everything.

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