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Author
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Topic: Steering wheel shimmy......Help
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 266
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 01-24-2005 10:59 AM
  
I have a 1968 Fastback converted into a shelby with all Global west suspension and a TCP rack and pinion and a 500HP Stroker 408W.
At highway speeds the steering wheel shimmys back and forth.
I've had the car aligned twice,and I've had the tires balanced numerous times.I cant seem to find and fix this problem.I have a toyota tundra lifted with off road tires, and I feel safer driving that at 110mph than the Mustang at 60mph. The Mustang should handle like its on rails. Im hoping that day will come soon.
Any ideas on what to check next? Rack and pinion?
wheel on car balancing?
Disc brake assy? Thanks.
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STEVEB
Journeyman Posts: 45
From: ottawa on. canada
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-24-2005 11:11 AM
Has the runout on the wheels been checked,that can also produce a shimmy.Steve
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 266
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 01-24-2005 11:35 AM
Last time they were balanced I had them "road matched" . This is where they line up a specific part of the wheel with a specific part of the tire (precise balancing).I told them I didnt care about appearence , to place the wheel weights where they would perform the most accurate.If run out is a reading of the outside lip of the wheel while rotating slowly on the machine, It was performed.
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-24-2005 12:59 PM
Grego,Read this first, http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm#Cas I'm thinking you may not have enough positive caster, and some loose parts. Balancing the front wheels on the car is a good idea too. Good luck, SteveW
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 266
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 01-24-2005 02:32 PM
The specs Global west reccomended for my application was CASTER +2 deg. (pass side)
+1.5 deg. (Driver side)
CAMBER -1/4 deg.
TOE IN 1/16" I think I'll look into balancing the wheels while on the car. Hopefully its as simple as that. Now I have to find somebody who does this.
thanks
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whiteknight289
Gearhead Posts: 1391
From: Wheaton, IL, USA
Registered: Mar 2004
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posted 01-24-2005 06:47 PM
A call to Total Control and/or Global West might be in order.
Scott
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 266
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 01-24-2005 06:51 PM
I've talked to both companies many times,
not much help.believe it or not, Im getting better feedback, support, and ideas from this website forum.
thanks
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Dusty Kiser
Gearhead Posts: 175
From: Bethel,Oh USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-24-2005 08:41 PM
If I'm reading you correctly, it sounds like you installed the suspension kit and further, that you are having the wheels balanced and runout checked off the car? I don't pretend to be the last authority on the issue, but I am a triple certified ASE Master Tech (auto, medium and heavy truck and schoolbus) and have cured many such problems. I would start by jacking each wheel slightly off the ground and check tracking (ie runout ). This can be done easily by placing a heavy object next to the wheel rim in such a way that the edge is close to the rim and acts as a pointer. Simply turn the wheel and observe the gap betwen your makeshift pointer and rim to determine the extent of the runout. If less than 3/32 inch I would continue to look for source of shimmy. If that or more, you need to figure out why the wheel tracks true on the balancer and runsout on the car. Move your pointer to the tread surface of the tire and check roundness. Anything that can set up a vibration can amplify with speed. Beyond that, there are about a hundred things that can cause shimmy. Loose parts, worn shocks, defective tires, excessive scrub radius, flexing of frame rails or suspension links, wheels that don't register on the hub pilot properly, etc. You must use the process of elimination to narrow it down. A couple of thoughts. When installing street suspension, the weight of the vehicle must be on the suspension before the control arm bolts are torqued to prevent undue stress on the bushings, and possible ride height problems. Also, the stock type power assist slave cylinder priority valve on those Mustangs were (are) notorious for wear that can cause errattic steering. We would need more specific information to give more pointed advice. Hope it helps.
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Dusty Kiser
Gearhead Posts: 175
From: Bethel,Oh USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 01-24-2005 08:47 PM
PS> Reread your specs and noticed rack and pinion. May want to take a hard look at the angle of the tie rods with weight on suspension and rack mount for potential flexing or slack in mount(s).
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wrksnfx
Gearhead Posts: 262
From: Warren,MI,Macomb
Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 01-25-2005 02:24 AM
Check your rag joint I had the same problem on my 79 Ranchero I thought it was everything else that every one listed here but I told my Brother about it and he checked under the hood and just noticed that the rag joint had gone bad (vulcanized)go here and download this pdf catalog from Borgeson the pic is on bottom of page four.http://www.borgeson.com/catalog_download.htm Here is Borgeson's store page with the rag joints on them. http://www.borgeson.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BUOS&Category_C ode=RJ
Flaming River also carries them.
http://www.flaming-river.com/racks1.htm [This message has been edited by wrksnfx (edited 01-25-2005).] [This message has been edited by wrksnfx (edited 01-25-2005).]
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grego37
Gearhead Posts: 266
From: los angeles,CA,USA
Registered: May 2004
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posted 01-25-2005 11:11 AM
Thanks Dusty , I'll start by testing runout on wheels while on the car etc..more to come
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