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Author
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Topic: Power steering to Manual box
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Catmando
Gearhead Posts: 183
From: Vermilion, OH USA
Registered: Jun 2004
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posted 01-10-2005 04:31 PM
   
On my 69 Cougar, since this will be drag only, Im changing to non power assist steering. The old box was crap anyhow. I see in some of the restoration catologs, I can get a rebuilt manual box. It also shows a new link to buy to adapt the manual box to attach to where the old cylinder deal was. Any coveats, pitfalls, advise appreciated.
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 787
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 01-10-2005 04:54 PM
I put a power to manual conversion part from Canadian Mustang and it works great. It replaces the power steering ram.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 26813
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-10-2005 06:37 PM
NPD sells the conversion kit. They work well.
As far as gear boxes go, you can't beat a Flaming River unit.------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,& '04
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-10-2005 06:44 PM
Use the power steering box. It's a 16:1 ratio where the manual is 19:1. When I broke the manual one in my car, I put a power steering one in it out of a 69 cougar I believe and just used my manual pitman arm on it. The box itself is the same, just the ratio is different. And ya, you need a special deal to get rid of the control valve and slave cylinder if I remember right.------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 650 dp holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 3.50 9" locker rear.
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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Catmando
Gearhead Posts: 183
From: Vermilion, OH USA
Registered: Jun 2004
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posted 01-10-2005 07:24 PM
Thanks to all. I like your plan BLstangin, going to look more into that. I thought there was greater differences between them besides the ratio. As long as the effort isn't to high, I will try it. I deleted the power assist on a 5.0 Stang, and it seemed way harder than a regular manual steer car. But that was a rack and pinion unit of course.
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-10-2005 07:46 PM
Catmando, I am by no means large at all. I can drive my car without a problem with the manual steering and I believe my steering wheel is like a 12" diameter or something, way smaller than stock. I have yet to have a problem steering it. I can turn it just fine, I can do it with just my palm to when I need to steer quick, like when the rear gets loose in around town! My dads car has a 9-10" steering wheel in it so he can fit in it (also 70 mustang with manual steering) and I don't have any problems with that either. You will be just fine, plus steering is much more responsive since it takes less steering to turn more. It drives much better with the quicker box. Oh ya, a rack in pinion steering setup for power without the pump will turn way harder than this.------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 650 dp holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 3.50 9" locker rear.
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans [This message has been edited by BLstangin (edited 01-10-2005).]
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mainer
Gearhead Posts: 157
From: Bryant Pond, Maine
Registered: Sep 2003
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posted 01-11-2005 10:38 AM
Can't speak to any conversion kits. I just removed the power steering ram and pump and the cars steers fine. I'm running skinny fronts which probably helps. Is there an issue driving the car without a conversion kit?don ------------------
68 Mustang Coupe
New 420w [This message has been edited by mainer (edited 01-11-2005).]
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Catmando
Gearhead Posts: 183
From: Vermilion, OH USA
Registered: Jun 2004
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posted 01-11-2005 08:41 PM
Mainer, nice ride!!!!!! info info info, how she run? Mine is a drag only car, skinnys as well. I just presumed one had to use that conversion piece. I have to buy a new box anyhow though cuz mine is whiped out.
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mainer
Gearhead Posts: 157
From: Bryant Pond, Maine
Registered: Sep 2003
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posted 01-12-2005 09:57 AM
Thanks. Haven't gotten to the track as I only got the motor in after the season was done.Specs on the motor:
Crank - Eagle 4340 4.1 stroke
Rods - Eagle 4340 H-Beam 6.2
SRP pistons .040 9:6 to 1
Engle roller cam .525 lift 225 dur. @ 50@ LSA 112
Heads - ProTopline 215 - 2.080"/1.600"
Holley 750 4779
Intake - Stealth dual plane/ported to heads Dyno had it at 530 ft/lbs and 524hp peaks with over 500 ft/lbs in a 1700rpm span.
I went with a 3.70 gear and 2200 stall converter to keep it streetable but am debating changing them and putting a cage in and going for broke. I still enjoy driving the car on the street which is keeping me from going this route. No one seems to have the scoop on the conversion piece being necessary. I don't want to be cheap at the expense of safety but would rather not spend $120 on something that just makes the steering lighter as it drives fine the way it is. don ------------------
68 Mustang Coupe
New 420w
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-12-2005 01:41 PM
I think that you either have to use the adapter, or you replace the centerlink and tie rods. The adapter is probably the cheapest, and is what I would do. You just hook it up to your pitman arm and centerlink and your done. SO basically. You just pull the pump, and hoses, brackets and the slave cylinder and control valve off, put in this adapter and your done, plus you have the power box you you'll have quick ratio steering.------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 650 dp holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 3.50 9" locker rear.
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 26813
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-12-2005 01:50 PM
NPD part number for conversion kit3A163-4A 65-66 3A163-2A 67-70 ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03, '04,&'05
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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Catmando
Gearhead Posts: 183
From: Vermilion, OH USA
Registered: Jun 2004
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posted 01-12-2005 09:51 PM
Thanks to all for the info!!!
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indyphil
Gearhead Posts: 2690
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002
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posted 01-13-2005 07:27 AM
I have the conversion kit too. Steering is very difficult at the moment but I believe its because of excess castor that was built into the alignment when the car had power steering. I have widish tires up front (225) with a very sqaure cross section (they are on 8 inch wide rims). In most cases when people complain of excess steering effort, tire pressure and alignment can fix it. After all I have a friend with a manual 68 with a tiny steering wheel and his is fine. I need to get off my lazy butt and get an alignment job (or adjust it myself)------------------
'68 coupe, '66 289 C code
engine, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm
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