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  What filter flows and filters the best ?

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Author Topic:   What filter flows and filters the best ?
Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 12-19-2004 03:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I know K&N claims to out flow anyone. But they don't say anything about filtering any better ?
They are a lot of different brands on the market now. I like the washable filters and have used K&N filters for years. I have noticed that my carb on my 65 gets more dirty with the K&N then it did with the paper filter. With my working scoop I need a filter that can get alittle wet and handle a lot dust and that flows.
Also for my new truck I don't want to put a filter on that flows better but lets mor dirt in.

Thanks

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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393Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 150
From: Clarksville Tn.
Registered: Feb 2004

posted 12-19-2004 04:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 393Bird   Click Here to Email 393Bird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have read several test over the last few years, and WIX throw aways came out on top. K&N was in top 5 or 6.

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1993 Tbird
393 stroker, 3500 RPM converter
http://members.tccoa.com/393bird/

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2680
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 12-19-2004 05:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Personally, I would never install an 'OEM' fit K&N filter in an otherwise mostly stock newer vehicle.

They do not filter as well, and tend to leave an oily residue downstream of the filter. This residue can get on the Mass Air meter and cause problems. Usually, the filter itself is not a restriction in newer vehicles. It's the 'muffler' and contorted airflow path of the piping leading to the filter that is the restriction. Sticking a K&N filter in there won't do jack.

They are fine on carbed hotrods, but a $20-30k street car... forget about it. Use a good Wix or something, and keep it changed.

Good Luck!

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 12-19-2004).]

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Daniel Jones
Gearhead

Posts: 872
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99

posted 12-19-2004 06:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Daniel Jones   Click Here to Email Daniel Jones     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
My experience with a K&N on 1987 Mustang GT was that after 160,000 miles
there was little to no wear inside the 5.0L engine. The Mustang is the first
and only car I've owned since new, so I was curious to see what it looked
like inside. Previous to the Mustang, I had a 1979 Buick Regal as a daily
driver that was purchased with 70K miles showing on the odometer. When I
opened it up, it was evident the previous owner didn't change the oil on a
regular basis. The oil pickup screen was completely clogged (only the bypass
hole was pulling oil in), the bearings were in bad shape, the timing chain
was flapping in the wind, and there was carbon build up everywhere. My
Mustang's 5.0L HO was at the opposite end of the spectrum. The inside of
the engine was completely clean. When we ran the rifle cleaners through the
oil passages, they came out as clean as they went in. The only build up was
a slight amount on the tops of the pistons and the exhaust valves. The block
showed no wear whatsoever: no ridge and the original honing cross hatch marks
were still visible. The valves and crank were still within the tolerances
for new parts. The roller cam and lifters were fine. The cam bearings were
like new, in fact they were a bit on the tight side. Even the connecting
rod big ends were still round.

I had heard the nodular iron 5.0L blocks wore quite well but I was surprised
to see how nice the engine looked inside. I was expecting some wear due to
the fact I was running a K&N filter which probably does not filter as well
as a paper filter. Also, I spent a year in the Mojave desert and upon my
return, noticed the air inlet tube had a gap at the bottom that allowed
unfiltered air in (for how long I don't know). In all his years of engine
building, my dad had never seen anything look so good, especially given the
hard usage. Strictly speaking, the only thing the engine needed was a valve
job and a throttle body cleaning (later versions got a Teflon coating, mine
was an early one that was uncoated aluminum).

I assume a number of things contributed to low wear: the fuel injection,
overdrive, low tension oil rings, etc. but one major contributor has to be
the synthetic oil. When my dad pulled the intake on his 1990 Lincoln's
5.0L, it showed a fair bit of build up that was not present in my engine.
His engine got regular oil changes with conventional oil and certainly
led an easier life than my Mustang.

In any case, a K&N might not filter as well as a good paper filter but it
can't be all that bad. More important is to change your oil frequently.

Dan Jones

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2680
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 12-19-2004 07:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Big ole' air filter test. Lots of good reading. Very scientific and well done.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

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393Bird
Gearhead

Posts: 150
From: Clarksville Tn.
Registered: Feb 2004

posted 12-20-2004 10:26 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 393Bird   Click Here to Email 393Bird     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here is another one that test several filters.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/01/airfilters/index.shtml

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1993 Tbird
393 stroker, 3500 RPM converter
http://members.tccoa.com/393bird/

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Toronado3800
Gearhead

Posts: 1011
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 12-20-2004 01:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Toronado3800     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm kinda a stick in the mud. I like cheap paper filters I can change for the price of two jack n cokes every 100 miles and non-synthetic oil so I don't need to worry about stretching my oil changes out to 5 million miles or taking out a loan every three months.

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MandarinaMustang
Gearhead

Posts: 141
From: San Jose, Costa Rica
Registered: Jun 2002

posted 12-20-2004 05:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for MandarinaMustang   Click Here to Email MandarinaMustang     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 393Bird:
Here is another one that test several filters.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/01/airfilters/index.shtml


Did you guys read that article???? Besides being informative...

quote:
From the article:
The Cup guys are not allowed to use cotton gauze, somebody got caught freezing nitrous into them and keeping the filter frozen and installing it at the very last moment before the qualifying lap!


Is that cool or what !?!?!!

Alex

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