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Topic: Does anyone here have access to a parts interchange manual?
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-08-2004 01:05 AM
Because I want to get rid of my old glass fuse box but keep my stock wiring harness in my 1979 Ranchero 500 which is built on the LTD 2 platform any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 20708 From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 12-09-2004 02:27 AM
You could just use an after market fuse box,like from Summit racing to replace the old box.------------------ SCOOP oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-09-2004 11:45 PM
quote: Originally posted by Fastymz: You could just use an after market fuse box,like from Summit racing to replace the old box.
I am looking for a stock ford unit not aftermarket so that I don't have to do any trailing down of wires if I us a interchangeable fuse box all I got to do is disconnect the pos. side of the battery and unbolt two screws and pop off two little plastic retaining clips and replace it with the newer unit w/ plastic fuses and reassemble it in reverse order.
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cracing Gearhead Posts: 430 From: Saltillo Miss. USA Registered: Jan 2002
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posted 12-11-2004 05:58 PM
There is a circuit breaker made with round thingys on the ends that sits in the prongs where a glass fuse was, but they only make then for the longer fuses. Volvo used one that has a reset button on it. Both are avalible at heavy truck shops, or Volvo truck dealers.
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-13-2004 04:41 PM
quote: Originally posted by cracing: There is a circuit breaker made with round thingys on the ends that sits in the prongs where a glass fuse was, but they only make then for the longer fuses. Volvo used one that has a reset button on it. Both are avalible at heavy truck shops, or Volvo truck dealers.
HELLO I am not trying to be a jerk but I am looking for a stock Ford unit not an aftermarket part so that I don't have to add anything so if I use a interchangeable fuse box all I got to do is disconnect the pos. side of the battery and unbolt two screws and separate the wiring harness from the fuse box pop off two little plastic retaining clips and replace it with the newer unit w/ plastic fuses and reassemble it in reverse order and it will appear to be stock.
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 9489 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 12-15-2004 12:08 AM
quote: Originally posted by wrksnfx: HELLO I am not trying to be a jerk but
HELLO, But you were even if you weren't trying..... This is the Ford racing forum, we don't keep anything stock. Especially fuse boxes and wiring. Peace and Happy Holidays, SteveW
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-15-2004 11:24 AM
All I am saying is that I want to keep it stock for when I restore my Ranchero for car shows you lose points for having aftermarket.Other than that then my apologizes.
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 12-15-2004 11:25 AM
sorry it double posted[This message has been edited by wrksnfx (edited 12-15-2004).] [This message has been edited by SteveLaRiviere (edited 04-27-2005).]
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 04-27-2005 02:22 AM
Whoever it was that did this is the best THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Refering to this in the Ford tech data section now all I have to do is get the part number off of my old fuse box and change the numbers and letters and I will be able to do my upgrade again THANKS whoever you are. FORD PART NUMBERS TELL A STORY Here's how to decipher Ford part numbers, such as D1ZZ-6675-C, for example: The first two digits indicate year. The letter is the decade; A = '40s B = '50s C = '60s D = '70s E = '80s F = '90s G = '00s The third digit designates body line; A = Ford full size D = Falcon E = Escort F = Pinto, Maverick, Falcon G = Early Comets, Montego, Cyclone H = Medium/Heavy Duty Truck K = Edsel L = Lincoln Mark VII M = Mercury O = Fairlane R = Capri S = Thunderbird T = Pick-up Truck or Bronco U = Econoline Van V = Lincoln W = Cougar Z = Mustang {there are actually many more} The fourth position signifies Engineering group; A = Chassis B = Body E = Engine If it's a Service Replacement part; Z = Ford Division Y = Lincoln-Mercury X = Original Muscle Parts program M = Ford Motorsport, SVO, FFRP The center number, four or more numbers or letters, is the part number. The A at the end of the number indicates that the part is the first version. If it was revised once, it would be B. If it was revised again, it would be C, and so on. When they run out of letters, it becomes AA, AB, and so on. So if we decode this number, D1ZZ-6675-C, we come up with the following: D1 = 1971 model year. Z = Mustang. Z = Ford Division Service Replacement part. 6675 = the group number for oil pans. C = The third version of this part.
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 44935 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 04-27-2005 07:37 AM
quote: Originally posted by wrksnfx: Whoever it was that did this is the best THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open '70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open '72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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DidgeyTrucker Gearhead Posts: 1539 From: Greenbrier, TN USA Registered: Oct 99
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posted 04-27-2005 08:28 PM
Racing?? An upgrade to the wiring will allow more juice to the ignition......won't it?Seriously.... Any wiring harness fuse block I have ever seen is hard wired to the harness. They don't unplug. You have to cut and splice wires to change a fuse block. But I 've never looked under the dash of a '79 Ranchero. Have you removed your fuse block to see i f this swapping idea would work? Tracy
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wrksnfx Gearhead Posts: 356 From: Warren,MI,Macomb Registered: Sep 2004
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posted 04-27-2005 10:46 PM
Yep sure have.All there are is 2 bolts that screw in from the firewall to hold the harness to the fuse box unbolt them and separate the harness from firewall and then there are four plastic clips that hold the fuse box directly to the firewall and Viola then you just replace the old unit with the newer unit and reverse the process and your done. [This message has been edited by wrksnfx (edited 04-27-2005).] [This message has been edited by wrksnfx (edited 04-27-2005).]
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