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Author
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Topic: Brakes and swaybar questions
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 11-22-2004 08:57 AM
   
My 70 stang currently has 4 wheel drum brakes. I have a 70 mach1 that went through a fire, and had every option. I got the disc brakes apart and the spindles are fine where the bearings run, but the rest has some rust and pitting, but the threads on the end are fine yet also. the rest is junk, the calipers and rotors and hubs are junk. Would you trust these spindles on my car? Also if I was to get new calipers, rotors, dust sheilds and such what else would it take to make it work. I already have the right hoses. Do they have a different master and would I be able to leave it manual brakes or would I have to make it power, if I have to make it power it uses a different setup under the dash correct? I don't know if I have enough vaccum for power brakes either. Only have about 10" max. So would it be worth the work? Also the mach has a much bigger front sway bar, was a 351c car, and it also has a rear sway bar, would these still be good or would the heat of gotten to them? Also would a rear swaybar hurt of help a street car that also may be going to the track this spring? It had a 9" in it and I'm currently using the axles and rear wheel studs out of it with out a problem so far, In the rear the brakes were melted to the drums, but in the front the pads weren't melted to the rotor if that helps get an Idea of how hot they got, it did however take the spring out of the front springs, they are completely compressed, and when I tipped it over they stayed that way. So worth the effort, or is it all junk?------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 650 dp holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 3.50 9" locker rear.
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 11-22-2004 08:03 PM
Anyone???------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 650 dp holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 3.50 9" locker rear.
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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Toronado3800
Gearhead Posts: 903
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 11-23-2004 01:46 AM
I don't know the metulargy of how hot a fire you need to have before the metal parts loose their tension (or get heat treated?). How big a fire was it, did the front or rear of the car burn? I wouldn't trust anything with rubber parts that got hot. New bigger sway bars and new bushings make all the difference. Worst come to worst you could just swap the bigger set in and see if a few miles of spirited driving does any damage to the "heat treated" bars.
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