|
Author
|
Topic: What clutch should I get?
|
Cain
Journeyman Posts: 11
From: Portland, Oregon
Registered: Oct 2004
|
posted 10-27-2004 12:23 AM
   
I recently destroyed the clutch in my 69 Mach 1. Car is street/strip. Here's the specs:
410 windsor based stroker
AFR 205 heads
Victor Jr intake
Comp cams solid roller cam 248/254 @ .050 .614 .621
BIGS HP 950 stage 5
4 speed toploader
3.91 locker
28X10 Hoosier slicks at the track This car sees more time on the street than at the track. What clutch would be best for this car? http://www.angelfire.com/creep/drfish/
IP: Logged |
steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
|
posted 10-27-2004 12:27 AM
CenterForce Dual Friction.  SteveW
IP: Logged |
johnny 4-speed
Gearhead Posts: 156
From: Larkspur, Ca. USA
Registered: Oct 2004
|
posted 10-27-2004 01:25 PM
If you don't mind a little more pedal pressure, I recommend a Ram "long-style", with organic friction material. Mine is a non-adjustable 3000lb. I think they offer a 2800lb type. I recommend the adjustable type for track tuning, but it requires boring a hole in your bellhosing(to access adjustment screws). A shrewd tech inspector might catch the hole, but you could tap and plug it. I had an 11" D/F Centerforce, the weight retaining ring failed at 7000. Centerforce rates their dual friction clutches at 6800, no gaurantees beyond that. JD[This message has been edited by johnny 4-speed (edited 10-27-2004).]
IP: Logged |
MrWesson22
Gearhead Posts: 1285
From: Dacula, GA
Registered: Sep 2000
|
posted 10-27-2004 04:24 PM
Ditto on Steve's recommendation.I love the DF in my 69.
------------------
Neal 69 Gulfstream Aqua Grande
351C/4sp
https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/MrWesson22.html 99 GT 5 sp coupe
IP: Logged |
mizry
Journeyman Posts: 56
From: ca
Registered: Sep 2004
|
posted 10-27-2004 10:57 PM
Do your self a favor and get a built c4. Your next step up in a clutch is a metalic disc, that means sfi approved plate, flywheel and bell. And then you may have problems with it on the street. You could stay with the organics and a heavy plate but then you have to deal with linkage problems and a slow reacting clutch. Ive blown organics, ceramics and then a iron clutch with a 289 and the last one cost me a block. And im sure your engine has more in it but a race clutch wont hang on the street. If it was a track only car or never used slicks than that would be easy. go c4 and be done with it.
IP: Logged |
steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
|
posted 10-27-2004 11:00 PM
quote:
Originally posted by mizry:
Do your self a favor and get a built c4.
I have to agree with this statement! When we switched from a 351w to a 408w the built c-4 was already in. And outperformed the t-5 too. SteveW
IP: Logged |
Cain
Journeyman Posts: 11
From: Portland, Oregon
Registered: Oct 2004
|
posted 10-27-2004 11:33 PM
I originally built this engine to put in my 68 cougar. Its a bit more of a "race" car with the 8 pt cage that I put in a few months back. So, more than likely I'll be running a c4 in the cougar. I probably won't do the swap until May or June.
That still doesn't change the fact that my clutch is hashed and I need a new one regardless. I was originally looking at the centerforce dual friction, but someone else suggested that I try a Spec stage 4. I'd like it to survive for at least one pass at the track. I'm just dying to know what my combo will run! Thanks for the advice so far.http://www.angelfire.com/creep/drfish/
IP: Logged |
steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
|
posted 10-27-2004 11:40 PM
The CF DF will be able to handle the power, and your rpms won't exceed the 6800 rpm limit. Have fun and get ready for some new lower et's when you swap to a good converter/c-4 combo. SteveW
IP: Logged |
Mustangsandmore Forums
