ES-7 (For use with 2 bl.heads 1 3/4 tubes)

ES-7A (For use with 4 bl.heads 1 7/8 tubes)

You can get them from Mustangs Unlimited.

You will have to notch the shock towers,and you cannot use the factory V-8 Maverick Bolt in crossmember (goes right below the motor mounts) It must be removed if its was a factory 302 car.

Two of the tubes on these headers criss cross benieth the engine and slip fit together...but the headers fit well ,and dont hang down low . If I could post pics here I`d show some engine compartment pics of the towers and headers.

First, a disclaimer: the car was a freebie and I was bored this particular summer, so some things may be a bit "hack".

Motor will bolt to standard 302 mounts. You may or may not need to use spacers under the mounts, couldn't tell you, I didn't have any.... The headers held the motor in place just fine....

I used the C-4 that was in the car. It was a case fill and cleared fine IIRC. Removed the 6-cylinder, left the tranny in place and installed the 351 on the bellhousing. I used the tranny mount to set the location of the motor. Column shift linkage had to go. Used a 71 Mustang floor shifter, had to shorten the shifter to tranny rod a couple inches.

I used the stock 6-cyl radiator. I used sections of the 6-cylinder hoses to make a "sleeve" for the 351 hose. Worked great, no leaks, didn't overheat. Used the factory 6-cyl fan bolted to the 351 which had stock 71 pulleys. Used a really short belt to run w/p and crank. No adjustment, nice and simple. Used OE 74 alternator and harness with 351 brackets.

Car was originally m/s. No problems there. The pitman arm did bump into the headers at extreme lock, but that wasn't a big deal.

On the headers, I used Hooker 6915's, a 71-3 Mustang application. Passenger side fit pretty well, did require some sledgehammer surgery on the shock towers and some "re-shaping" on the header tubes. The passenger floor required a section of the toe board to be removed to clear the headers. I then welded a small "hump" back in place to seal the floor. The driver's side required some more "reshaping' of the header tubes, but nothing drastic. You will install and remove the headers many times before getting a satisfactory fit. I suggest nothing the towers like the FM article and further down try to flatten out the corner reinforcements. If I were to do this again, I'd try a set of 67-70 Mustang 351C headers as they are designed for a smaller engine compartment.

Since the factory front crossmember cannot be used, I suggest you fab your own. The front end will really flex with a 300hp+ motor in there and the chassis could use allt he help it can get.