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Author Topic:   67 fastabck
mopper
Journeyman

Posts: 2
From: Columbus
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-29-2004 10:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mopper   Click Here to Email mopper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Iam seriously looking at purchasing my 1st mustang, pretty important to me(20 year one day Im gonaa!!).Any opinions on a 1967 fastback, california car with little to no rust, good door seems, floor, frame rails, quarters. Its a basket case with donor 302 donar period engine , no trans, looks real rough at 1st but with inspection very solid body. left side of trunk worst spot. I was looking foward to dissassembling, to make my own baskets. $7800

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Toronado3800
Gearhead

Posts: 1014
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 09-30-2004 01:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Toronado3800     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Mustang prices always seem high to me. It is a fastback and solid body panels/frame pieces will save you later, but for $7,800 I'd want a running car. Do you do paint work? I don't and would need a body man to look at the panels and make sure they're o.k.

This is probably the wrong place to ask what kind of shape the $7,800 Torinos are in around your way.

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 09-30-2004 05:12 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i would suggest as a first mustang to not go for the most pricy of the cars. the 67 fastback is wanted by everyone and thier grandma, and they fetch prices reflecting that. it's a beautiful car, don't get me wrong, it's just very pricy as your first one. if your not really set on a mustang right now there are other fords that are fun to drive and they are usually cheaper than the mustangs

And about the rust, I bought a my 74 torino in running condition with minor rust, and a few dents. So far i've spent about probably 1000 hours into the body alone (first time doing bodywork, and i think i'm trying for a little too perfect). Anyway, what i'm trying to get at is a little rust goes a long way....very very long way...it's either gonna take time or $$$$ to get rid of it and to get the car/panels repainted.

if you have a big budget for it i'd say go for it, but i would think at you'd need at least $10,000 for the car free of rust and looking decent(including purchase price). that's before you tear into the motor or buy a trans.

i've been unable to drive my torino for 2 years now making it beautiful, and running smoothly. and it's agonizing to not be able to drive it, i would for SURE tell anyone starting thier first project to drive it, and drive it lots, upgrade it while driving it, it's no fun sitting in your project car in the garage and dreaming about driving it, well it is, and you get less tickets that way, but i think you know waht i'm trying to say.

so to recap, 67 fastback expensive, removing rust and bodywork expensive or time consuming, if you have big to huge budget go for it, and/or try to get a running car, or different model.

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 09-30-2004).]

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JCQuinn@work
Gearhead

Posts: 899
From: Lakewood, CO, USA
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 09-30-2004 10:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCQuinn@work   Click Here to Email JCQuinn@work     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The 67 fastbacks are more expensive than some other models and a non running car can be burdensome to make right. The big questions are: How badly you want a 67 fastback and how important is the cost. If you have your heart set on a 67 fastback then any other model is going to leave you dissatisfied in the long run. The money issue is up to you, I don't know how much you can spend. Buying a 67 in nice driveable condition will probably be cheaper than restoring a basket case unless you are an accomplished mechanic and body man.

Getting bogged down in the project because of cost will take the fun out of any project.

John

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 2690
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-30-2004 12:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I agree with the previous posters
I think the price is a little high but close.

I would pick something else for a first car, or save up some more to buy a nicer one.

and a 302 isnt period correct for 67... but you probably meant period as in its an old carbed small block.

------------------
'68 coupe, '66 289 C code
engine, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm

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bud4660
Gearhead

Posts: 528
From: Mesquite, Tx. M&M #2925
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 09-30-2004 02:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bud4660   Click Here to Email bud4660     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by JCQuinn@work:
The 67 fastbacks are more expensive than some other models and a non running car can be burdensome to make right. The big questions are: How badly you want a 67 fastback and how important is the cost. If you have your heart set on a 67 fastback then any other model is going to leave you dissatisfied in the long run. The money issue is up to you, I don't know how much you can spend. Buying a 67 in nice driveable condition will probably be cheaper than restoring a basket case unless you are an accomplished mechanic and body man.

Getting bogged down in the project because of cost will take the fun out of any project.

John


Where were you a year ago with this advice?? lol I have around 17k in mine right now. I am just starting to build the motor and tranny. Then it will need paint. And it was a rust free no body damage body to start with......lol

------------------
1967 GT Fastback S code, C6, 4:56, tubbed, 10 point cage.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/photopost/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/12578

1998 GT Convert.(sold 11/29/03)
Mesh Grille, Air Silencer Trimmed
Automatic, 3:73 FRPP Gears, Mac Girdle, Moser Axles
Griggs Sub's, Welded/Plated Torque Boxes, Strut Tower Brace, Strange 10way Struts, MM HD lower control arms, Rear air bags
ProStars 15x10 w/295/50/15, 15x4 w/P195/75/15 and ARP Studs, 9/16" spacers

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mopper
Journeyman

Posts: 2
From: Columbus
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-30-2004 09:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for mopper   Click Here to Email mopper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks for all the post, you have really helped." well maybe" Its definately a love for the year. a 1000 hours on the body does kill me though. One thing I didnt mention is that the perchase is through a local mustang hero has 25 years plus of experience and he,s willing to advise all along the way, I have confirmed with others and seems its true. This is worth a bit Im sure. thanks again Looking foward to when i can help.

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 3720
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 09-30-2004 10:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I walked away from a 67 GT Fastback S code rustbucket for $2000 last month. Why? Because I've got $25,000 in my 68, and five years of work, and I still don't consider it finished.

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 09-30-2004 11:34 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
yah, my 1000 hours has got me to primer so far....forgot to mention that

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Kellxr7
Gearhead

Posts: 679
From: Canada
Registered: Mar 2003

posted 10-01-2004 11:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kellxr7   Click Here to Email Kellxr7     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Get the better alternative to a mustang like I did, get a Cougar of the same year... Cheaper, cooler, classier & alot more rare. & still not hard to find parts for IMHO

[This message has been edited by Kellxr7 (edited 10-01-2004).]

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