Brought to you in part by:

.


JC Whitney clearance center!
  Mustangsandmore Forums
  Ford Racing
  Caltracs Question

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
profile | register | preferences | faq | search

next newest topic | next oldest topic
Author Topic:   Caltracs Question
f100cleveland
Gearhead

Posts: 295
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-26-2004 06:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for f100cleveland   Click Here to Email f100cleveland     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Question for guys running Caltracs. I talked to Calvert Racing and they said I should clamp each spring on the rear half of the leaf to minimize body to chassis seperation. Does this sound right? Also, is it best to run the Force Transfer Link on the lower holes on both mounts? This is for a truck application. Thanks

[This message has been edited by f100cleveland (edited 09-26-2004).]

IP: Logged

Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2060
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 09-27-2004 07:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes & Yes.

Ryan

IP: Logged

f100cleveland
Gearhead

Posts: 295
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-27-2004 09:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for f100cleveland   Click Here to Email f100cleveland     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks Ryan

IP: Logged

f100cleveland
Gearhead

Posts: 295
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-27-2004 11:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for f100cleveland   Click Here to Email f100cleveland     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dumb question, but what is the advantage of keeping the rear half of the leaf springs clamped together? I know it keeps them from feathering out, but dont you just want the front to be rigid?

IP: Logged

Mike_R
Gearhead

Posts: 176
From: Indianapolis, IN 46237
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 09-27-2004 01:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mike_R   Click Here to Email Mike_R     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The rear of the car is going to try to lift with the caltrac bars. Clamping behind the rearend helps make those springs more rigid to help keep it from lifting as much.

IP: Logged

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 09-28-2004 05:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I would clamp both the front and rear.

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,& '04
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com

IP: Logged

f100cleveland
Gearhead

Posts: 295
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-28-2004 06:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for f100cleveland   Click Here to Email f100cleveland     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Moneymaker, what do you use for clamps? I got some Superior brand clamps and I think they pinch the springs too much and it doesn't allow the springs to slide. What do you use on your car? Thanks

IP: Logged

clevelandstyle
Gearhead

Posts: 1035
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 09-28-2004 06:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for clevelandstyle     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by f100cleveland:
...... I think they pinch the springs too much and it doesn't allow the springs to slide.

That's the point. The clamp is supposed to make the leafs ridgid. The sliding action is what causes body/axle separation.

------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 408C 4V, best time to date is 10.50 best MPH 127

IP: Logged

kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 09-29-2004 08:13 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You don't want the springs to move at all, that's why you clamp them.

I made my own clamps. Some flat steel cut into strips, and some short bolts to hold them together.

IP: Logged

f100cleveland
Gearhead

Posts: 295
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-29-2004 08:48 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for f100cleveland   Click Here to Email f100cleveland     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I took my bottom over-load spring off and cut up an old set of over-loads so it acted like a spacer to keep my ride height the same. It made the suspension a lot softer. I have one clamp on each side of the axle right now and have to make a couple more to totally secure everything. Seemed to help some, I guess it will slowly come with time.

IP: Logged

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 779
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 09-29-2004 10:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin   Click Here to Email BLstangin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
So, Dustin, do you still need me to make you some spacers, or are you good? Did you make any clamps out of that metal I gave you?

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

IP: Logged

f100cleveland
Gearhead

Posts: 295
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Sep 2004

posted 09-29-2004 10:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for f100cleveland   Click Here to Email f100cleveland     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Brandon, I should be good to go for now. Next step is to figure out the angle of my pinion and set it to 4-5 degrees negative. I didn't have a chance to make anymore clamps yet. Sounds like something to do after work/school.

IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Administrative Options: Close Topic | Archive/Move | Delete Topic
Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Mustangsandmore Front Page

Copyright 2005, Steve LaRiviere. All Rights Reserved.


Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47d

Amazon Honor System Click Here to Pay Learn More

[Acronyms][Calendar][Chat][Classifieds] [Members' Pics]

[ Mustangsandmore.com Bookstore] [ Smokin' Fords] [Tech Articles]