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Author Topic:   331 stroker plans
65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Syracuse, NY
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 09-16-2004 07:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Folks,
I am getting ready to do a 331 stroker. I'm looking at getting a complete rotating assembly from SCAT, with thier rods and trying to decide on pistons. Any opinions out there on piston brand - looking at JE or SRP from SCAT to go with the total assembly. What do people think? Cast or forged? Also, any opinions about the assemblies/psitons from CHP or DSS?

Motor will be about 10:1, hydaulic roller cam (haven't decided on specs yet) Looking to put my street driven 65 fastback (3100 lbs with driver) into the high 12's.

Any input would be appreciated on stroker kits and pistons.

Thanks, Chris

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73torinoqcode
Gearhead

Posts: 361
From: Buffalo,NY,USA
Registered: Jun 2003

posted 09-16-2004 07:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 73torinoqcode   Click Here to Email 73torinoqcode     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Forged for sure then you can always upgrade CR if wanted later on.

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65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Syracuse, NY
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 09-16-2004 08:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sorry, I meant cast or forged crank. I am going with forged pistons.

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indyphil
Gearhead

Posts: 2398
From: Senoia, G.A. USA
Registered: Jul 2002

posted 09-17-2004 08:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for indyphil   Click Here to Email indyphil     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Im also building a 331 with similar thoughts.
After a lot of going back and forth I decided that a SCAT cast crank will actually be fine for my application. We both have the same goal (around 400hp ought to do it)
And that crank will be fine at 400hp

The question is do we think we might go with some giggle gas or a blower later and want to make 600hp? A lot of folks feel safer with forged cranks but I think at 400hp (keeping it below 7000 RPM) the SCAT cast crank will be fine so I am going that way.

Dont have an opinion about pistons yet, although like you I want to go forged. I know a lot of people that have good things to say about Keith Black hypers, so dont rule them out just because everyone seems to suggest forged pistons.

When you buy an assembly you need to ask how its being balanced (0 - 28 or 50oz) and when you recieve it you are at the mercy of their quality. Buy the parts yourself, and take them to a machine shop and you can watch them balance it yourself and you dont have to wonder what these high volume guys did to keep costs down.

------------------
'68 coupe, '66 289 C code
engine, edel 600cfm carb, performer intake, dual exhaust http://www.geocities.com/ottouk_77/68mustang.htm

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4377
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-17-2004 10:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Scat's 9000 series cast cranks are good pieces; generous radii on all journals, if you wanted even more peace of mind you could spend maybe an hour with the die grinder smoothing out the casting lines and de-burring (on the non-machined surfaces, of course). That's what I run in my 333, and wind the piss out of it every chance I get

10:1 isn't real easy to do with a 3.250" stroke. I had my block four-corner decked to .005 in the hole; with 64cc chambers, 7cc valve relief volume, .030" compressed Cometic head gaskets it calcs out to 10.06:1. Tighter combustion chambers or smaller valve reliefs would help, or you're into domed pistons if you want much more than 10:1.

The bottoms of all 8 cylinders do require some minor clearancing for H-beam rods with big 7/16" capscrews, but it's no big deal.

The mid-range torque of this motor in a stickshifted lightweight car is alot of fun

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Syracuse, NY
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 09-17-2004 01:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've already got Edlebrock heads, 60cc chambers, so I think that around 10:1 will be pretty straight forward. At least that is what the local guy who is going to do the machine works tells me.

Running spray or a blower is not in my future, so I think the cast crank choice is good.

The other choice from doing it locally, is to get a short block from someone like CHP or DSS. That makes me nervous, because to me there is nothing like getting someone local, and going thru exactly what you want done, and seeing the progress, and addressing any issue or problems up close and personal, rather that over the phone, a 1000 miles away.

SCAT sells a complete cast rotating assembly, the 9000 series and either I-beam or H-beam rods, and several piston choices.

Does anyone have any opinions on the the assemblies and pistons from CHP and DSS?

What about a complete short block from either CHP or DSS?

What about piston choices available from SCAT?

Should I run a main girdle?

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4377
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-17-2004 04:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I sprung for the JE pistons, even though it's naturally aspirated (I over-built the whole motor, by design). I've heard too many horror stories about the hyper pistons, even in n/a applications.

CHP and DSS both have good reputations, but I have no first hand experience with either so I'm not endorsing or knocking either of them, but I hear good things about both.

On the girdle... I do not run one, but do use a '71 Mexican block for a foundation (thicker main caps and webbing). I belive that oil pan choices are limited if used with a girdle, but DSS has a slick girdle/windage tray combo all CNC machined from billet that looks cool, don't know if it's effective or not. I'd think that the girdle would need to be quite girthy to provide any additional structural strength(although I'm not a metalurgist), and the girdles I've seen appeared pretty flimsy.


------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 09-17-2004).]

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65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Syracuse, NY
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 09-17-2004 06:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I just got off the phone with SCAT, and am a little baffled. One of thereasons why I wanted to go with a 331 was that fact that I thought you avoided the wrist pin in the ring situation that you have with a 347. The guy I talked to , who seemed very knowledgeable said that no, the 331s rotating assembly with a 5.4 rod, which is what they sell, has the same setup. In fact, he encouraged me to go with a 347, instead of the 331, as I told him I wasn't going to buzz it up much past 6000 with the cams I am looking at.

BTW, he recommended the 9000 series cast crank, 4340 I-beam rods and SRP pistons. Said they were light weight. But to definetly go with a 347, and take advantage of the added torque that it will produce.

Is oil consumption, engine longevity issues, and side load a thing of the past with newer rings/rods that are now available when doing a 347?

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4377
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-17-2004 08:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, define longevity

If you're expecting 100k miles out of a wrung-out screamer, don't. Computer controlled electronic fuel injection can really increase the lifespan of rings and bore finish as the computer can adjust fuel delivery hundreds of times a minute to accomodate the motor's demands, whereas a carburetor simply meters the fuel as you've tuned it and that's typically on the rich side which over time can begin to 'wash out' the rings. Moly rings tend to be hard on the bores as well.

Wrist pin encroachment into the oil ring land is indeed present in Scat's 5.4" rod deal. Childs & Albert have a really slick oil control ring package that virtually eliminates excessive oil consumption. I can attest to that... my motor burns very little oil. More than a bone-stock low compression/low rpm turd, but by all means reasonable

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 09-17-2004 08:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I used the CHP kit in my 331. The oilring didn't intersect with the pins in my pistons. I used a solid roller cam and standard oil pump with a deep oilpan. No oil usage or pressure drop through 2 "torturous" years of abuse.

------------------
1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH

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JAAZZY
Gearhead

Posts: 777
From: Bay Area, CA
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 09-17-2004 09:45 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JAAZZY     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote

CHP 347(342) here and no problems in two years of spirited weekend driving.

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blackford
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Corona, Ca
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 09-18-2004 06:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackford   Click Here to Email blackford     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I designed a 331 a few years ago that does not have any oil ring intersection or oil burning issues. Since then I believe that a 5.315 rod 331 kit has entered the market. I finished the restomod on my car a few months ago and this engine really burns very little oil. Here's the formula:

331 crank forged or cast ( I used a Speedomotive Hi nodularity crank...$189)
289 rods w/ARP H/W and shotpeened or 289 H beam rods (I got H beams for $299 from Mustang Depot on Ebay)
KB322 hyper pistons (originally intended for 383 windsor).

With mufflers, an untuned carb, and timing untuned 297 RWHP at 6200 with ported 351w heads and 282S cam thru a C4. Well into 300 RWHP with tuning and open headers and 18" collectors.

If rod/stroke ratio has you hesitating, it's the same as a 347...1.59. Cost is also good...about $650 for the above.

KBs get an undue rap because they were misused. Reality is they will produce MORE power when used properly even with power adders. They require larger top ring gaps because they do not absorb heat like forged or tradional cast pistons. Instead the heat is reflected back into the combustion chamber improving efficiency. As a result, the top ring gets hotter requiring a larger gap...but certianly not to the degree that blow by becomes a problem since the gap closes up as the engine reaches operating temp.

If the top ring gap is not set correctly for the application, the piston land will break off and some may think its because the pistons are cruddy when in reality it was installation error.

All rings will have more problems sealing in a stroker due to a short skirt and piston rocking causing instability of the ring face. KBs improve this situation also because they can be installed with a very tight piston to bore clearance of .0015 to .002 in many cases...maybe a little more for power adder apps. This improves stability of the piston.


------------------
'65 "Black" ford FB, 331 with H beam 289 rods, KB322s, fully prepped 351w heads, 282S cam, C-4, 3.5 9" posi. Many Suspension and steering mods. 4.5 year restomod project completed in May '04. 297 RWHP and 307 RWTQ with mufflers, no tuning and timing off by 4 degrees retarded (timing light was broken). New Dyno soon.

[This message has been edited by blackford (edited 09-18-2004).]

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65driver
Gearhead

Posts: 184
From: Syracuse, NY
Registered: Feb 2000

posted 09-18-2004 10:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 65driver   Click Here to Email 65driver     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Thanks to everyone for the replys. I'm not especting 100k miles by any means, but I want to make the right choice and not be doing this again in 2 years.

V8 Thumper - Did you get the rotating assembly from SCAT, pistions included? If you dont mind, what was the price for the assembly?

Thanks again!

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Tom G
Gearhead

Posts: 587
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 09-20-2004 12:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom G   Click Here to Email Tom G     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
Scat's 9000 series cast cranks are good pieces; generous radii on all journals, if you wanted even more peace of mind you could spend maybe an hour with the die grinder smoothing out the casting lines and de-burring (on the non-machined surfaces, of course). That's what I run in my 333, and wind the piss out of it every chance I get

10:1 isn't real easy to do with a 3.250" stroke. I had my block four-corner decked to .005 in the hole; with 64cc chambers, 7cc valve relief volume, .030" compressed Cometic head gaskets it calcs out to 10.06:1. Tighter combustion chambers or smaller valve reliefs would help, or you're into domed pistons if you want much more than 10:1.

The bottoms of all 8 cylinders do require some minor clearancing for H-beam rods with big 7/16" capscrews, but it's no big deal.

The mid-range torque of this motor in a stickshifted lightweight car is alot of fun


What cam are you using Comp?

------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS engine RPM Air Gap 600 Holley ceramic coated headers T5, cable clutch Flows X Pipe 3.89 9". Clearwater Aqua GT Clone Vintage40 series 16X8 225 front 255/50 rear drag radials 13.30 on 255/50/16 BFG Drag radials

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4377
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-20-2004 04:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yes, 282S. I'd started out with a 270S, and it was a very good street grind; awesome low-end, easy to tune, but I wanted more so in went the bigger 'stick

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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blackford
Journeyman

Posts: 33
From: Corona, Ca
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 09-20-2004 04:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for blackford   Click Here to Email blackford     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Gotta love that 282S! I'm just starting to realize the potential of this grind. Tinkered with timing the other day 'cause I was feeling a flat spot in accel in the mid range. Went from 18 BTDC to 14 BTDC and a big difference. Flat spot is gone. Total advance is 34 BTDC at 2500 or so. This cam produces peak power at 6200 and power dropped off only 10-15 at 6500. Started seeing a steeper drop off at 6600 so i'll keep my shift points at 6500. I run the lash a bit tight at .019 rather than the Comp spec of .022. Provides a bit more duration and quiets things down a bit. Some people run them as tight as .016. Comp said that the lifter would start digging into the lobe with a lash of .008 or tighter.

------------------
'65 "Black" ford FB, 331 with H beam 289 rods, KB322s, fully prepped 351w heads, 282S cam, C-4, 3.5 9" posi. Many Suspension and steering mods. 4.5 year restomod project completed in May '04. 297 RWHP and 307 RWTQ with mufflers, no tuning and timing off by 4 degrees retarded (timing light was broken). New Dyno soon.

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4377
From: Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 09-20-2004 07:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The performance of that grind is awesome! Mine likes 32* timing, locked out. I've found that the lash at .018 really woke up the mid-upper range... amazing how big a difference .004 can make! Substantially less valvetrain noise too, which is easier on the rocker arms and valvestems. If it weren't for the benefit of less valvetrain wear, I couldn't care less how much noise it is, as long as it's LOUD

When I was running the 270S, I had a 3310 Holley (780cfm vac secondary) on it, and it was ok. Now, with the 282S I'm running a 4779 (750 double pumper). Oh yea

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

[This message has been edited by V8 Thumper (edited 09-20-2004).]

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Big D
Gearhead

Posts: 5133
From: WELLS, NEVADA USA
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 09-20-2004 09:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Big D   Click Here to Email Big D     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got my 331 kit from Custom Performance Racing out of San Pedro, CA.. Prices were very competitive.. When I had everything balanced at Kidd Performance in Idaho,, they said everything was fine and I haven't had any problems with the motor at all.. (how do you make a X-MY FINGERS or KNOCK ON WOOD SIGN)..

Here's a link to their website..

http://www.cprparts.com/specials.html#Anchor-For-53442

Their customer service people were great,, either by phone or email..

------------------
Don
6T6 Fastback
331 STROKER,, WC T-5

Royal Blue Metallic w/Red-Blue Ghost Flames
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/BigD.html

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