Motor will be about 10:1, hydaulic roller cam (haven't decided on specs yet) Looking to put my street driven 65 fastback (3100 lbs with driver) into the high 12's.

Any input would be appreciated on stroker kits and pistons.

The question is do we think we might go with some giggle gas or a blower later and want to make 600hp? A lot of folks feel safer with forged cranks but I think at 400hp (keeping it below 7000 RPM) the SCAT cast crank will be fine so I am going that way.

Dont have an opinion about pistons yet, although like you I want to go forged. I know a lot of people that have good things to say about Keith Black hypers, so dont rule them out just because everyone seems to suggest forged pistons.

When you buy an assembly you need to ask how its being balanced (0 - 28 or 50oz) and when you recieve it you are at the mercy of their quality. Buy the parts yourself, and take them to a machine shop and you can watch them balance it yourself and you dont have to wonder what these high volume guys did to keep costs down.

10:1 isn't real easy to do with a 3.250" stroke. I had my block four-corner decked to .005 in the hole; with 64cc chambers, 7cc valve relief volume, .030" compressed Cometic head gaskets it calcs out to 10.06:1. Tighter combustion chambers or smaller valve reliefs would help, or you're into domed pistons if you want much more than 10:1.

The bottoms of all 8 cylinders do require some minor clearancing for H-beam rods with big 7/16" capscrews, but it's no big deal.

The mid-range torque of this motor in a stickshifted lightweight car is alot of fun

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

Running spray or a blower is not in my future, so I think the cast crank choice is good.

The other choice from doing it locally, is to get a short block from someone like CHP or DSS. That makes me nervous, because to me there is nothing like getting someone local, and going thru exactly what you want done, and seeing the progress, and addressing any issue or problems up close and personal, rather that over the phone, a 1000 miles away.

SCAT sells a complete cast rotating assembly, the 9000 series and either I-beam or H-beam rods, and several piston choices.

Does anyone have any opinions on the the assemblies and pistons from CHP and DSS?

What about a complete short block from either CHP or DSS?

What about piston choices available from SCAT?

Should I run a main girdle?

CHP and DSS both have good reputations, but I have no first hand experience with either so I'm not endorsing or knocking either of them, but I hear good things about both.

On the girdle... I do not run one, but do use a '71 Mexican block for a foundation (thicker main caps and webbing). I belive that oil pan choices are limited if used with a girdle, but DSS has a slick girdle/windage tray combo all CNC machined from billet that looks cool, don't know if it's effective or not. I'd think that the girdle would need to be quite girthy to provide any additional structural strength(although I'm not a metalurgist), and the girdles I've seen appeared pretty flimsy.

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

BTW, he recommended the 9000 series cast crank, 4340 I-beam rods and SRP pistons. Said they were light weight. But to definetly go with a 347, and take advantage of the added torque that it will produce.

If you're expecting 100k miles out of a wrung-out screamer, don't. Computer controlled electronic fuel injection can really increase the lifespan of rings and bore finish as the computer can adjust fuel delivery hundreds of times a minute to accomodate the motor's demands, whereas a carburetor simply meters the fuel as you've tuned it and that's typically on the rich side which over time can begin to 'wash out' the rings. Moly rings tend to be hard on the bores as well.

Wrist pin encroachment into the oil ring land is indeed present in Scat's 5.4" rod deal. Childs & Albert have a really slick oil control ring package that virtually eliminates excessive oil consumption. I can attest to that... my motor burns very little oil. More than a bone-stock low compression/low rpm turd, but by all means reasonable

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

331 crank forged or cast ( I used a Speedomotive Hi nodularity crank...$189)
289 rods w/ARP H/W and shotpeened or 289 H beam rods (I got H beams for $299 from Mustang Depot on Ebay)
KB322 hyper pistons (originally intended for 383 windsor).

With mufflers, an untuned carb, and timing untuned 297 RWHP at 6200 with ported 351w heads and 282S cam thru a C4. Well into 300 RWHP with tuning and open headers and 18" collectors.

If rod/stroke ratio has you hesitating, it's the same as a 347...1.59. Cost is also good...about $650 for the above.

KBs get an undue rap because they were misused. Reality is they will produce MORE power when used properly even with power adders. They require larger top ring gaps because they do not absorb heat like forged or tradional cast pistons. Instead the heat is reflected back into the combustion chamber improving efficiency. As a result, the top ring gets hotter requiring a larger gap...but certianly not to the degree that blow by becomes a problem since the gap closes up as the engine reaches operating temp.

If the top ring gap is not set correctly for the application, the piston land will break off and some may think its because the pistons are cruddy when in reality it was installation error.

All rings will have more problems sealing in a stroker due to a short skirt and piston rocking causing instability of the ring face. KBs improve this situation also because they can be installed with a very tight piston to bore clearance of .0015 to .002 in many cases...maybe a little more for power adder apps. This improves stability of the piston.

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'65 "Black" ford FB, 331 with H beam 289 rods, KB322s, fully prepped 351w heads, 282S cam, C-4, 3.5 9" posi. Many Suspension and steering mods. 4.5 year restomod project completed in May '04. 297 RWHP and 307 RWTQ with mufflers, no tuning and timing off by 4 degrees retarded (timing light was broken). New Dyno soon.

V8 Thumper - Did you get the rotating assembly from SCAT, pistions included? If you dont mind, what was the price for the assembly?

quote:

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Originally posted by V8 Thumper:
Scat's 9000 series cast cranks are good pieces; generous radii on all journals, if you wanted even more peace of mind you could spend maybe an hour with the die grinder smoothing out the casting lines and de-burring (on the non-machined surfaces, of course). That's what I run in my 333, and wind the piss out of it every chance I get

10:1 isn't real easy to do with a 3.250" stroke. I had my block four-corner decked to .005 in the hole; with 64cc chambers, 7cc valve relief volume, .030" compressed Cometic head gaskets it calcs out to 10.06:1. Tighter combustion chambers or smaller valve reliefs would help, or you're into domed pistons if you want much more than 10:1.

The bottoms of all 8 cylinders do require some minor clearancing for H-beam rods with big 7/16" capscrews, but it's no big deal.

The mid-range torque of this motor in a stickshifted lightweight car is alot of fun

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

When I was running the 270S, I had a 3310 Holley (780cfm vac secondary) on it, and it was ok. Now, with the 282S I'm running a 4779 (750 double pumper). Oh yea

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

Here's a link to their website..

http://www.cprparts.com/specials.html#Anchor-For-53442

Their customer service people were great,, either by phone or email..