Are they set in the bottom hole yet?

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306, 4speed, 4.11's....best 1/8 mile 7.58 at 92mph with 1.72 60ft. PUMP GAS/NO ADDERS/STREET TIRES

Will they fit a 65 Mustang with a Lincoln Versaille 9" Rear? And if so How Much you want for them.

[email protected]

Without a 'slipper' clutch, the momentum from the spinning flywheel has to go somewhere. If the suspension doesn't absorb the momentum, the tires will spin. Body seperation at the rear is sometimes necessary with a stick to keep the tires from spinning on cars without special clutches.

My car looks like a frog taking off. All four corners of the car are almost fully extended on launch! It's not very efficient, but neither is a slipping converter, and it gets the job done.

Sure, try the lower holes. Try everything you can.... then share the results! However, I believe the softer setting on the shocks is what will work the best on your car.

Pink tee-shirt guys..... Don't give me crap about saying a slipping converter is not very efficient! A fluid coupler does NOT hook up 100%, and a LOT of the engine's power is simply transformed into wasted heat. (you ever wonder exactly why the fluid gets so hot???) Plus, torque multiplication is misleading term. The 'slipping' converter allows the engine to rev up past the speed of the vehicle, where it is making more torque. That's where their magic comes from. Nothing has an efficiency greater than 100%, so converters can't simply make more torque than the engine is producing. They simply allow the engine to rev past the speed of the car, where it is making more torque and power. Converters are horribly inefficient. (as can be verified by the amount of heat they produce) The smaller they are, the more inefficient they are. This is why lock-up converters were invented. Why do you think stick shift transmissions do so much better on chassis dynos? They are more efficient! They are just harder to launch...

Good Luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by n2oMike:
Remember, he's running a stickshift.

They are just harder to launch...

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No arguement there.

For drag racing, you DO want soft springs... and let the shocks do the work.

Every combination is different!

Good Luck!

The lower hole is a slower softer hit on the rear tires. And, you're right making h.p. is a lot easier than applying it to the ground constantly.

My work in progress, "other" car went 1.64s 'til the track hit 130+ then went down to 1.78 & .79s. It is using Melissa's old ET Streets from when she ran in HS 3 years ago though. We've licked all the good off them now, time for a new pair of shoes.

SteveW

17-18 psi in the et streets depending on your rim width and a longer low rpm burn to get the heat in them. No John Force immitations required, but 5-6 seconds of 80-90 mph on the speedo should do it.

How's your track prepped? Do you see strings off the rear tires as you're rolling through? Sac Raceway is like that occasionally but not Infineon (our home track). The only two times we've broken the '66 were at Sac Raceway both with a T-5 tranny launching at 4200 off the two step on that very sticky launch pad. They get a kick out of seeing how good their track prep was by how many rear ends they break. LOL

quote:

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Originally posted by CHIPSBAD67:
man, im so backwards, i thought the lower hole hit the tires harder.

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Think of the lower hole like sitting closer to the middle of a teeter totter. You'll lift the other side higher and faster, but more effort or weight will be required. On the car it means the tires (your side of the teeter totter) won't be pushed down as hard. That's why it's not recomended for low h.p. cars. But if you are dumping the clutch at redline it doesn't really matter how many h.p. you have.

You've finally seen the light... WFO launches are where it's at!

Good Luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by n2oMike:
Mine always 60ft's in the mid 1.6's launching WFO on the 2-step. Good Luck!

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Mike,

This is where your car and my daughter's car differ. She can run 10.60s at only 122 mph, with a 1.42 60' time. Gotta love those C-4 trannies and tansbrakes. The 28 splined Moser axles are still fine after hundreds of 1.42 60' launches and the rear is a single ribbed C-7 casting too. No heavy duty hardware required. Give that 4-speed stuff up and race that sucker.

quote:

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Give that 4-speed stuff up and race that sucker.

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I have more fun with the car on the street than at the dragstrip. I don't have the budget (nor the time) to race the car very often, but I can always get a few minutes to back it out of the driveway and blast it around for a bit... I like to get moving around 5mph, drop it in 2nd, then rev it up and dump the clutch to a big, long 2nd gear burnout! It's also fun to clutch it and smoke the tires sideways around certain turns. H*ll, I just like hearing it scream up around 7000 rpm while I bang the gears!

It ain't no show car... and it ain't no race car... It's a stress relief device that just happens to go fast on pump gas. When it comes time to race, that pump gas gets drained and replaced with race gas, the bottle gets turned on, and it morphs into a racable car that runs 10.60's @ 129, and has a best 69ft of 1.43 seconds.

I don't think it would be nearly as much fun with a slushbox. I just like to beat on it and make it go fast.

Automatic cars just don't 'feel' as fast as a comparable stick car. They don't drift sideways around turns nearly as well, either.

Have fun racin'!

Humm,

466 w/ auto

Les

Automatic cars do not 'feel' as fast as a comparable stick car. There's not as much banging and jerking. In comparison, you pretty much sit there in your easy chair and drive in a straight line. Put your butt in a traction limited nitroused 4-speed car that's launching WFO on the bottle, and you'll find out what excitement is all about! An all motor automatic car that doesn't spin a wheel that runs mid 10's is quite dull in comparison. The people in the stands like to watch the wild-a$$ed stick cars!

As for sliding and drifting around turns... a stick car has a solid, direct link between the engine and tires. This gives them a lot more control and feel when modulating the throttle. It's easier to get it sliding while feathering throttle, then ease it into Wide Open Throttle as you work toward the exit of the turn. then you redline it and bang another gear! It's fun as h*ll!

Maybe one of these days I'll try to drive down the track without going too fast for that number written on the windshield... and put a C4 in it. For now, most of the 'weak links' seem to be worked out, and I'm just gonna' thrash toploaders on the street and 'test and tunes' as long as possible. At the current time, bracket racing seems kind of boring (to me) and 'heads up' racing seems more like a 'stress producing money pit' that I don't have the time, nor budget for... so I'll just stick to what I'm doing. I DO respect those who choose to take those paths, but it's just not my path right now.

I AM a very competitive person, and am also very particular. I do NOT like to be slower than the next guy... I believe I could be very successful in 'heads-up' racing, but just don't have the time, money, or interest in beating myself up with that type of thing. That sort of thing is a 'lifestyle' where everything else comes second. Something that you beg, borrow, steal... and work yourself to the bone in an effort to get that last little dab of horsepower. Most of these guys don't have families, and if they do, they don't last very long. 100% dedication, or go to the back of the pack.
I don't want to be part of that 'addiction'. However, I respect Alex for all his acquired knowledge, dedication and success. It doesn't come by 'devine intervention'. It's a lot of blood, sweat and tears!

Dang, somebody slap me the next time I start rambling like that again! Sorry 'bout that.

Have Fun!

quote:

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Originally posted by n2oMike:

Have Fun!

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Yes! That's what it's all about.

quote:

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Originally posted by CHIPSBAD67:
mike, what does your car run off the bottle? just curious.

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I don't get to go to the track very often, so since the passes are numbered, the bottle is usually on! But, a friend with an all motor Camaro and I decided to see who was fastest off the juice, so with the car set up and geared for the bottle... I kept launching it harder and harder. It finally ran a 7.48 in the 1/8 at around 92-93 mph... leaving the line WFO at 7000 rpm.

60's are pretty much always in the mid 1.6's without the juice. Tires are 28x9's with a 4.33 gear. 26x10's will also fit, and would probably be a bit quicker, especially with a 4.56 gear off the bottle. These little engines don't make a ton of torque, and really like plenty of gear to quickly recover from the launch. When using nitrous, this is not a problem.

Good Luck!

Thanks.
Les

That engine has had a lot of running time on it... hard running time. As a matter of fact, the heads were first done back before any affordable aftermarket castings were available. It's been freshened up a time or two, but it was still a 9 year old engine. Actually, it ran 6.74 @ 102 back when it was newer with a 150hp shot. As the engine wore, I stepped up the bottle to compensate, and it ran 6.74 @ 103.

The weekend before I finially killed it, it ran a 10.65 I was playing with the nitrous out on the street (while not using 100% race fuel) and ended up breaking a ring land off a piston. At that point, I decided to retire the old powerplant and put another one together that I had been acquiring parts for over a period of years. It's not an 'ideal' combination by today's standards, but should run as good or better than the old one, thanks to a set of TFS Twisted Wedge heads. (at the time I purchased them, they had just come out, and were the best thing out there with a stock height exhaust port)

If starting over (with this new engine), I'd probably use a different head, slightly different cam, use something besides Probe pistons, and build a 331 since the prices are so much cheaper now.

The shortblock is finally assembled, and I finally finished porting the heads and took them to the machine shop yesterday! It will be making noise later this summer. After that, it will be going to the body shop (as it got rear ended the same weekend the piston came apart)

Hotrods are tough when you've got a wife and three small kids running around. Time, money and motivation are tough to come by, as the kids generally take priority.

Good Luck!

This is on the tight side. I've got around 3 years of running on that clutch, and it still looks great. I could probably loosen it up quite a bit to get a better launch, (especially off the bottle) but like you, I'm not into pulling everything out for regular clutch maintenance. I've got holes cut into my steel bellhousing to allow for adjustment. Some of those stick racers run really low spring pressures.... Quite a bit lower than what your base pressure will even adjust down to. I'm amazed at how little pressure these things take. I removed the 'assist' spring, and can still push the clutch down by hand... easily. The previous clutch used a 'performance' 2800# unit. It was pretty stiff.

This current sintered iron unit is surprisingly smooth on the street. Since the disk is non-compressable and has no marcel spring, the friction point is very short, but it has zero chatter! Sometimes it does let out a little metallic 'squeak' when it engages, though. It sounds almost like a tire chirping.

The RAM 900 disk I had in there at one point was a complete PITA to drive. (very bad chatter).... as was the RAM Metallic, which was a 6-paddle unit with copper colored friction pucks. That sucker was either 'on' or 'off'.... and was very efficient at breaking drivetrain parts.

My car weighs 3120 pounds w/o driver, and 3300 with me in it. It's no 'stripper', and still has the wipers, stereo, carpet, heater, makeup mirror, etc.

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Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220