In spite of the cooling problem and the wiring harness melt-down, I can't get the valves to stop pinging.

Recurved the distributor: 22 degrees mechanical all in by 2800rpm and vacuum advance limited to 10 degrees. I started at 12 degrees initial, then 10, then 8, then 6, and now I am at 4 degrees and I stll have some valve ping at around 2700rpm.

We have a dyno in town and I always wanted to try it. Yesterday took it in, and did two runs to check for lean fuel mix. Well, it never dropped below 12 to 1. Most times in was high to mid 12's. So I am still looking for the magic answer to get this car to run like it is meant to. While at the dyno, the guy puts his timing light on the car and it reads "0" advance at idle! A timing light can't be out of calibration can it? Mine reads 4 degrees.

My only other idea is if the machine shop degreed the cam mechanically during install, if that would prevent my being able to adjust it out with the distributor? Why valve ping at just that spot around 2700 rpm? Is it coming in too fast?

I am open to any suggestions. Many thanks to you all for getting me this far. I just want to get it 100% and I truly appreciate the wealth of knowledge we have on this forum.

BTW: Motor specs are 289, 30 over, Holley 600 w/vac secondaries, Performer intake, stock heads with GT-40 valves and ported exhaust, Compcams XE262, stock points distributor, hi-po cast-iron exhaust manifolds, H-pipe and 2" Dynomax Turbos.

I know this is not full race stuff, but I wanted the old school look so I could shame late model GM cars at the traffic lights.

Dyno reading was 228 ft/# torque at 3300. Torque curve was amazingly flat, from 220 at 2900, up to 228, then back to 220 by 3800rpm. HP was only 170 at 4600rpm. With 25% loss through tranny that's only 226 at flywheel. Only 212 if you figure 20% loss. Disappointing, but nice to see on paper.

Also I've seen timing lights off more then that. Go and get a new one or borrow one from some one. If your off 4 or more degree's at idle who knows what your real total timing is ?

What kind of ignition system do you have now ?
Plugs are good and new and are they gapped between .035-.045 ?

Is the coil new and good, bad points, wrong dwell setting ????

Whats your total timing with the vacuum advanced hooked up and when is it in by ?

Is the ground strap in the dist still good ?
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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

Do you have another coil sitting around you could try.

The exhaust idea was way out there. But that was kinda of the point too if it was loud enough you wouldn't hear anymore.

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

Sometimes it's tough to get an acceptable timing curve out of those old, stock distributers. Of course an MSD Billet distributer would allow you to dial in a slower curve that would probable help eliminate your problem...

Ideally, you would start with far more initial timing, then bring in the rest of it more slowly to keep it from pinging. This is tough to do with the stock stuff.

Some even swear that changing to a Pertronix or Crane electronic conversion (that fits right in the stock distributer) cures their pinging problems. The Crane setup has built-in rev limiter and costs $65 at Summit. They are supposed to be easy to install as well.

As far as performance is concerned, the regular Performer 289 intake is a 'turd'. Invest a few dollars in the Performer RPM unit. Those hipo manifolds aren't what they are hyped up to be. A set of Tri-Y headers would also be 'period correct', and would help quite a bit. The 2" exhaust system also flat out sucks. The car needs a 2-1/2" system with Flowmaster 2-1/2" mandrel bent tail pipes. The tail pipes are BEAUTIFUL, with all their smooth bends, and flow like gangbusters. Plus, they are only $99/pr! Call Summit at 800-230-3030 and order the RPM manifold, Crane ignition, Flowmaster tailpipes, and good mufflers right now. Then find a place to order some Tri-Y headers. The car will be a totally different animal!

Good Luck!

Igntion coils don't last forever, consider changing to something with quality, like a Flamethrower or Blaster.

I agree with Mike, get the tri-y's. I've got an automatic with power steering and they clear fine with the optional required drop bracket. Power brake booster works okay too. You're okay with the performer intake, but if its in the budget the RPM would be nicer. 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 exhaust would be great, doesn't have to be Flowmaster but larger pipes will help overall.

I agree on the Performer RPM Intake. Thats a pretty good piece. Something else, you maybe should go up on is carb size.

I'm also thinking that the power valve in your carb might be the wrong one for your application. Last idea, you may wish to pull the carb and see if the throttle plates are into the idle transfer slot. What happens here is your pulling fuel from the idle transfer and then you have to lean out the idle screws. Idle effect WOT believe it or not. How many turns out are the idle screws?

Les

I pulled a couple plugs to check gap, and I think I found the problem. They are lite gray, almost white at tip and ground strap. I must be lean, regardless of what the sniffer at the dyno says! I guess I jet, any suggestions to how much?

Don't know idle vacuum, but I am running a C-4 trans, with the 2.79 highway rear gear. Did 117mph at 4800rpm on the dyno!

As for intakes, I know the RPM breathes more but I don't think that will really help the valve ping, do you?
I figured with the new cam technology and revised intake design of the Performer, I could easily get to 250 HP or better. Well, it hasn't been easy.

Wildfire, thanks for the throttle-plate info. I will check that out. I don't know about the idle screws, I just adjusted in & out until I got max RPM.

n20Mike As for exhaust- CarCraft ran an article on exhaust that stated 2" duals were good up to about 300HP. It may be somewhat restrictive, which will have a direct effect on what I can flow in from the carb, but a new one is not in the budget. Yeah, points- what can I say. I miss the good ol'days. Maybe electronics in the future, but I want to try to get this working with what I got.

As always, thanks for the help. Especially you, whiteknight289. It's good to know someone else has close to the same combo and it is working.

I hate to bitch about my problems, it's just that I'm good at it
Charlie

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.