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Author
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Topic: Could it be the lower hose?
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 06-26-2004 02:13 AM
   
Well I was talking to my dad, and he said there is no signs of water in the oil, it compression tests to 160-170 on all cylinders, and has no bubbles in the radiator at idle or at a higher free rev. So my dad thinks that it isn't a head gasket issue, although not 100% sure yet and not ruling it out, but is it possible that my lower hose is sucking shut as there is no spring in it, and it has a tight bend in it, then the pump is just forcing the water out the cap because it can't come back through the lower hose again? The theory works in my head, but do you guys think that it's possible?------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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fastford34
Gearhead Posts: 876
From: penna
Registered: May 2002
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posted 06-26-2004 09:07 AM
if its overheating while cruising at speed,that is a classic sign of the lower hose collapsing. the lower hose should have a spring in it.------------------
34 coupe powered by 351 c 4v
keith
it`s nice to be important but more IMPORTANT to be nice.
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 06-26-2004 10:48 AM
It isn't overheating. It just blows coolant out the overflow, but only when the motor is floored.------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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wildfire466
unregistered
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posted 06-26-2004 10:59 AM
I gave this some thought, if the rad is restricted then the pump may colaps the hose. Like a vacuume of sorts. How about pull both hoses. Hook the garden hose to the top connection. Turn on the hose and watch flow at the lower hose. If it back up with some slow flow out of the bottom hose then the rad is restricted.My ideas,
Les ------------------
http://www.geocities.com/wildfire1mustang/
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 06-26-2004 05:04 PM
Well, the verdict is in. Put a solid hose on it, and still did it. I know the radiator isn't bad, It was completely redone about 700 miles ago, and looks prefect inside. My buddy works at a car repair shop. They have a tester for hydrocarbons in the radiator, so we tested it after hours and it has them. So it looks as though the heads are coming off. Does anyone have a good gasket number for the heads and intake. That are not more than $30 or so for a set of head gaskets? Also which intake gasket do I need, the 1250, or the 1262? I'm running the DOOE windsor heads, and want to make sure the water port is right for the head, and that it has the exhaust crossover blocked. I was looking at the fel pro #FPP-10111 are they any good? I just have the cheap fel pros in there now. I'm thinking that when I tried to start it with the 302 order, and it was the windsor order, is when it blew it out. It was popping pretty good and shooting flames and raw gas out the carb, will that do it? Also, I've had a pressure tester on it for about 1/2 hour and it doesn't loose any pressure, and I have it pumped up to about 16 lbs. The thing compression tests at 160-170 on all cylinders, with that info is it still possible it's a gasket, just seems to me either it would leak all the time, or not at all, but maybe not. I just want to be 100% sure before I tear it apart what's wrong as it is a lot of work and very discouraging. :cry:------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-26-2004 05:05 PM
quote:
Originally posted by BLstangin:
Well, the verdict is in. Put a solid hose on it, and still did it. I know the radiator isn't bad, It was completely redone about 700 miles ago, and looks prefect inside. My buddy works at a car repair shop. They have a tester for hydrocarbons in the radiator, so we tested it after hours and it has them. So it looks as though the heads are coming off.
Told ya so. 
But you're like me and have to convince yourself.  Good headgaskets are the Victor ones available from Napa or Alex. about $100 a pair IIRC. Good luck, SteveW
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 06-26-2004 05:08 PM
Ya, I know Steve, but I am still not convinced, I just find it so hard to believe that it can have good compression, hold pressure in the radiator with a tester, not bubble in the radiator and still have a gasket problem. I guess it is my only choice though. And I really can't afford more than another $50 or so total into this motor again, I just don't have any more money to throw at it.------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-26-2004 06:01 PM
I've been thru this exact same thing twice. I went through what you are. Trying every thing to prove it isn't the head gaskets. Once on a v-6 Mustang, and once on a 6.9 diesel. The water is getting blown out of your radiator by exhaust gasses being forced by the pressure of combustion into the water passages. What else can make warm water "boil"? If the lower hose was collapsed the pump wouln't be able to draw any coolant to pump out the radiator, right? A pump has to have water into it before it can pump water out. Sorry about that, now save a few more bucks and change the head gaskets. Don't keep driving it or you may damage the heads and/or block. SteveW
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 06-26-2004 08:10 PM
Steve, I've only drove it about 100 miles totatl. And thanks for pushing me to pull it apart. My dad confirmed it. I took the passenger side head off and you can see where it was getting compression into the steam port on the #2 cylinder and you can see where compression was leaking between the cylinder and the bottom of the block and blowing compression out the side between the head and block. My dad is going to help me pay to get good gaskets, and he also said he wants me to put arp head bolts in it because he thinks that I have to much compression and it was pushing the head off the block at higher rpm and then when I slowed down it was fine again. Well I will be pulling the other head later, but right now I have to go be part of the pit crew for a burnout contest for the truck that has the 460 I built in it. Wish us luck! P.S. what is the intake gasket I need?------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
IP: Logged |
steve'66
Gearhead Posts: 9104
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 06-26-2004 08:20 PM
quote:
Originally posted by BLstangin:
Well I will be pulling the other head later, but right now I have to go be part of the pit crew for a burnout contest for the truck that has the 460 I built in it. Wish us luck! P.S. what is the intake gasket I need?
Good luck you guys! And have a great time with the truck. SteveW
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cracing
Gearhead Posts: 370
From: Saltillo Miss. USA
Registered: Jan 2002
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posted 06-27-2004 01:15 AM
BL,have the heads checked at a machine shop for trueness while you have them off. Have them surfaced if needed, it will save pulling them again. In my area I can buy a complete gasket set from engine rebuilders & some parts houses for less than just the head gaskets.
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 802
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 06-27-2004 02:49 AM
Thanks for all the advice. I think the heads are flat as they were milled about 600 miles and half a year ago. At the same time the block was decked. I just really think that it is healthier this time and the cheap gaskets and bolts couldn't hold up. And we won the contest and got a prize of $80, so my buddy took me out for supper for all the help!  ------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, mme custom roller cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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