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  solid vs hy roller for street

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Author Topic:   solid vs hy roller for street
stroker man
Gearhead

Posts: 267
From: Denville NJ USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 06-21-2004 03:11 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stroker man   Click Here to Email stroker man     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
well its getting time i hope to fire up this 408w of mine, now i put in a hy roller from comp cams custom grind 288-293-236-242-555-576-108, how would a solid roller be on a street driven car, only 1 or 2 days a week, pros and cons of this change, i would like a mild roller not to racy, if im going to walk in the grass with the big dogs i have to go solid this time, my engine is done and in the car but im not afaid to pump up the ponies. 69mach1 408w c-4 full manual, 10'' converter. thanks.

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Mpcoluv
Gearhead

Posts: 1299
From: Charlotte NC usa
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 06-21-2004 03:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Mpcoluv   Click Here to Email Mpcoluv     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
It depends on how aggressive the cam profile is. The old solid roller slow ramp cam profiles live a pretty long life on the street. The new aggressive (inverted flank) profiles can hammer the roller and have a shorter life. FWIW the new agressive flat tappet profiles have a much higher wipe out rate also.
The main benefit to a hyd roller is that the cam will not likely be wiped out with improper breakin procedure.
I would just run a solid flat tappet if you change the Hyd roller out. You need to get the duration up around 260 @ .050 for a solid roller to be really worth the dinero.
Just my 2 centavos.

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2499
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 06-21-2004 03:36 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Comp offers a series of Xtreme Energy solid flat tappet and a series of Xtreme Energy solid roller street lobes.

They open the valve aggressively, but close it more gently to keep from beating the valve job to death. A cam with lobes ground from one of these lobes might be just what you are after.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 06-21-2004).]

[This message has been edited by n2oMike (edited 06-21-2004).]

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Dynoram
Journeyman

Posts: 49
From: ford country
Registered: May 2003

posted 06-21-2004 07:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dynoram   Click Here to Email Dynoram     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Solid roller all the way !
Just keep up on your lash adjustments and no problemo. make sure you have decent rockers and studs too.

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stroker man
Gearhead

Posts: 267
From: Denville NJ USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 06-21-2004 09:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stroker man   Click Here to Email stroker man     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
thanks guys maybe when and if i change over think about a flat tappit cam.

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69maverick
Moderator

Posts: 1473
From: Thomaston,CT.
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 06-22-2004 03:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 69maverick   Click Here to Email 69maverick     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I have all my studs drilled and pined so they can't pull out. I have heard of a Kit to drill and tap the heads while still on the motor? Does anyone know of who makes it?

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gunrocker
Gearhead

Posts: 476
From: Colliers, WV,USA
Registered: Mar 2004

posted 06-24-2004 09:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for gunrocker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 69maverick:
I have all my studs drilled and pined so they can't pull out. I have heard of a Kit to drill and tap the heads while still on the motor? Does anyone know of who makes it?

Jim...I have head of that kit before too, but can't for the life of me remember who makes it!

Anyone???

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