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Author
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Topic: Lower Rad Hose with spring
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torino420
Gearhead Posts: 117
From: Tracy, California
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 06-08-2004 03:50 PM
   
I figured I should try to find one since I'm in the process of installing my new aluminum radiator. When I get on it the temp would rise for a bit so i thought it might be the lower hose collapsing. Seems like they cannot be found, is there any other solution? Can I rig something to put in my current hose? Any thoughts are appreciated.
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69 Torino GT Hardtop
420" Windsor
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69 Sportsroof
Gearhead Posts: 2124
From: Valley, Alabama, USA
Registered: Mar 2002
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posted 06-08-2004 05:04 PM
I used a metal clothes hanger.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-08-2004 05:31 PM
Use stainless rod so it doesn't corrode.------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Tbird
Gearhead Posts: 298
From: USA
Registered: May 2003
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posted 06-09-2004 06:56 AM
Try finding one of the flexiable lower hoses that matches your rad and pump openings and the right length.
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torino420
Gearhead Posts: 117
From: Tracy, California
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 06-09-2004 11:05 AM
Thanks for the responses.
I will attempt to make my own spring, where could I get stainless rod?On the flexible hoses, they don't collapse? ------------------
69 Torino GT Hardtop
420" Windsor [This message has been edited by torino420 (edited 06-09-2004).]
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ukracer
Gearhead Posts: 166
From: South Wales UK
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 06-09-2004 11:09 AM
I used to run a spring in the bottom hose of my 351 racer but recently left it out after it was pointed out to me that the system is pressurised when hot so the hose cannot collapse. I have since done two races (total of one hour track time) plus driven to and from the races (3 or more hours each way) and it never overheats (4 row rad now!) HTH
Cheers, Martin.
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torino420
Gearhead Posts: 117
From: Tracy, California
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 06-09-2004 02:22 PM
Any other opinions on ukracers comment?
Is the spring really needed?
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 787
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-09-2004 02:56 PM
My hoses also get pressurized when hot.
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2289
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 06-09-2004 04:12 PM
What ukracer said makes sense and if so it may not necessary. I got a "hose spring" out of a junked car (and I have another hose spring hanging on the wall - as a spare) cut it to fit and installed it in my lower hose.....now I KNOW it won't collapse. Simple, easy, cheap and 100% certain. Just my 2 cents,
Ryan 
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-09-2004 05:45 PM
quote:
Originally posted by ukracer:
I used to run a spring in the bottom hose of my 351 racer but recently left it out after it was pointed out to me that the system is pressurised when hot so the hose cannot collapse. I have since done two races (total of one hour track time) plus driven to and from the races (3 or more hours each way) and it never overheats (4 row rad now!) HTH
Cheers, Martin.
Wrong! The upper hose is pressurized, the the lower hose is in a constant state of vacuum since it is pulling the coolant out of the radiator. Even stock cars have problems overheating if the spring is left out of the lower hose. You got some bad advice.
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-09-2004 05:46 PM
quote:
Originally posted by torino420:
Thanks for the responses.
I will attempt to make my own spring, where could I get stainless rod?On the flexible hoses, they don't collapse?
A welding supply store or machine tool store and probably even a farm supply store.
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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 787
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-09-2004 05:54 PM
Steve, why would the lower portion be under vacuum while the opper portion is pressurized. Is it due to pressure drop through the radiator restrictions??? I'm pretty sure the lower hose is pressurized as well when it's hot. I'll check next time I go racing.
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 06-09-2004 06:25 PM
At higher rpms, the radiator can't supply as much coolant as the pump can suck, so vacuum results. Heck, I've found this problem on Buick landbarges that never went over 55. But it's your engine. ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Scott (69Mach)
Gearhead Posts: 787
From: Walnut Creek, CA USA
Registered: Jun 99
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posted 06-09-2004 06:45 PM
With as much effort as I have into the engine, I might as well add the spring as well. Mine only runs 12 secs at a time, but a little insurance isn't a bad thing...Thanks.
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ukracer
Gearhead Posts: 166
From: South Wales UK
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 06-10-2004 04:28 AM
I don't want to get into any argument here, I am just telling you what I have experienced. I grant you there is MORE pressure in the top hose than the bottom hose but there is certainly no vacuum. If the hose could collapse, I am sure my racing would have shown it up by now. Try driving as fast as you can around a racetrack for 15 minutes or more - I promise you it will show up any overheataing issues your car may have.
In closing I will say that for anyone who chooses not to believe this, the spring I had in the bottom hose (before I took it out) was simply a coiled up length of brazing rod to avoid corrosion issues. HTH
Cheers, Martin
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2289
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 06-14-2004 01:12 PM
....I'd guess that the pumping rate of your water pump has more to do with it than temperature. If the pump is a high-volume pump, it'll try to pump more water and up the chance to collapse your lower hose...if you've got a old pump with an impeller that's cooroded full of holes and without a backplate, it'll hardly move enough water to keep a stock engine cool at idle. Just my 2 cents,
Ryan
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