The bad news is that on the way home, going
north in route 9, I was engaged in a little
"comparative acceleration" when something
let go in the engine. The noise was pretty
bad. The engine died and I had to force the
car over to the side without power steering
or brakes. The engine would not turn over
at all. Not sure what went. I was expecting
to see parts hanging down when I looked
underneath, but I didn't see anything, not
even any fluid leaking. I don't think it
was the clutch, I can still push it in and
it fells normal, but the engine will not
turn over with the clutch in. That's the
first time I've gotten stranded by the
car (since I got it 11/1/97).

So, I've off to visit L&M tomorrow night.
I was going to rebuild in the fall, so it's
just moved up. I hope that I didn't
damage the block or heads so that they can't
be reused.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-02-2004).]

you guys with the big Mustangs sound alike.

------------------

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

I was going to do a 351C->408 stroker rebuild
al la 7DMach1 later this year, so it's
not that much of a bummer. I just hope that
the block/heads are OK.

at .006" lift
292/302 Duration (intake/exhaust)
Intake opens at 34 degrees, closes at 78 degrees.
Exhaust opens at 83 degrees, closes at 39 degrees.
Overlap is 73 degrees

at .050" lift
214/224 Duration (intake/exhaust)
Intake opens at 0 degrees BTC, closes 34 degrees ABC.
Exhaust opens at 49 degrees BBC, closes -5 degrees ATC.

.510"/.536" Lift (intake/exhaust)
107/117 degree lobe centers
Overlap is 73 degrees
Lobe separation is 112 degrees

quote:

---

Originally posted by 71Mach1:
I just hope the block/heads
are OK.

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by 71Mach1:
I'll provide more
info as the build progresses.

---

Please do.

The engine should get to L&M shortly after
that. I expect the build to take 4-8 weeks,
but it could take longer if I need to find
new heads or block.

Glaziers is going to re-do the engine
compartment, that's the only part of the car
that has not been really re-done and it's
probably the weakest part in car shows.

A couple of things I'm going to talk to
them about.

1) custom built hood. If I need more hood
clearance (and maybe even if I don't) I would
like to get a custom hood with the center
section of the 71 ram air hood raised. I'm
not talking about the cowl induction
fiberglass hoods that have a bow tie type
raised section in the middle. What I want is
the entire raised center section of the 71
ram air hood raised by 2-3 inches. This
increase would be where the raised section
is now in the front and sides, just with
the rise going higher and the openings being
larger. I think that would look really
cool. I would rather have a steel hood
(would probably use a re-pro rather than
cut the NOS one on the car) but it might
have to be fiberglass. For the steel one
you would have to cut the center section
out and the add material on the front
or sides. Not sure if this is feasable
cost wise (I'm sure anything can be done
with enought time and money). The other
option is to go with a glass hood, not sure
if any of the makers would be up for something
like that or what the cost would be.
Any ideas on this??

2) Back halfing the car. I was thinking of
some form of mild tubbing and a 4 link. I
don't think there is anything made for this
car, so we would have to find the closest
thing and make it fit. Not sure about the
inside, the back seat/trim might have to
be modified. The current rear could be
narrowed. I have a problem with the leaf
springs sagging, they were rearched, but
they have sagged over the last two years
with the drivers side down much lower than
the passenger side (since it's usually just my
250+ rear end in the car). My wife was not
amused when I suggested she needs to ride
with me more to get things back in balance.
I think there might be more options with the
4 link interms of controlling the rear height.
I want to run 15x10 (at least) on the rear.
I can get Magnum 500s in 15x10 and that would
look pretty cool under the rear, but I want
to keep the tires mostly under the fenders.

Anyway, these are some ideas I've been kicking
around, comments are welcome. I'm not sure
if either will happen, but you've got to
have some plans in the works or it gets kind
of boring.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-10-2004).]

Started life as a LIME green
sportsroof with 302 2V and an automatic.

Much better off the way it is today.

Re-sale value is not an issue.
I will never get out (monitarily) what I
put into it and have no intention of
ever selling.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-11-2004).]

Are you stopping by on customer app day on the 17th of Jul? I was a couple cars down from you at Etown BTW Clearwater Aqua fastback. Got to hot Sun to hang past 3:30 fiveOfastback and I left and got our plaque in the mail 10 days later. BTW sorry to hear about the engine problems.

------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine RPM Air Gap 600 Holley Dynomax ceramic coated headers T5, cable clutch conversion Flowmasters X Pipe 3.89 equa loc 9". Clearwater Aqua GT Clone Vintage wheel works 16x8 40 series 225 front 255/50 rear drag radials 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph (New times when better weather gets here)!

We stuck it out till the end, my son (8)
is a trooper, he loves it when we get an
award, he was in the front of the group
picture.

Since the 71-73 Mustangs and -70-71 Torino share so many parts and designs, maybe you could get some ideas from my project.

This is a link to some pics I have taken so far in the process.

http://groups.msn.com/MyFordandMercury/gregs1971torino.msnw?Page=1

Good luck!

Greg

------------------
'71 Torino GT

Anyone want to analize? Looks like a broken valve and piston?

The major question is are the block and heads ok? He said they would let me know
after cleaning and Magnafluxing so I'm assuming he didn't see anythying with the heads/block right off the bat.

http://home.comcast.net/~jodiseth/351C-001web.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jodiseth/351C-002web.jpg

Got this update....

The exhaust valve broke (overheat (coolant or combustion) and/or detonation) destroying the piston.

Usually this failure is very deadly, breaking the block and/or head.

With a casual examination the block and head look OK, although Magnaflux will be the final crack check.

NEVER use stock valves in a 351C. They are junk. Their heads tend to pop off and junk the engine. Always use one piece stainless, single groove valves... even on a stock rebuild!

What your pictures show, is how 95% of 351C's with stock valves die. The lifters pump up, (when hydraulic cams are used) the valve tags the piston, the head pops off, and the engine is junk. Run a small solid cam and good valves, and the engine will live a long, happy life.

Now you know...

Good Luck!

DOAE 4V

The builder says the heads need a little port work to hit
our target (500HP) based on the flow data.

He would like to use a single plane intake manifold, probably
a torker, but he would like something more like a victor (which
they don't make for the clevelend?). Any recommendation for
a more victor-like intake for the cleveland???

The other options besides the Torker seem to be

Holley Strip Dominator 351 C-4V (300-13)
- high rise air gap open plenum single plane with Holley carb bolt pattern

Weiand xcelerator 4v

Do these have bigger runners/plenums than the Torker?
That was what he meant by "more like the victor".

Also, will I have hood
clearance problems?? I don't really like the fiberglass
hoods for the 71 mustang, looks too much like a bow-tie
cowl induction hood. I'd like to see one where the entire
center section with the scoops is raised. I don't think anyone
makes that, not sure how easy it would be to fabricate.

Also, he wanted bigger headers, I currently have the
Hooker Competition #6915, with 1 3/4 primaries and 3 inch
collector (I think those are the numbers).
What are other people running with their
408s??

If I'm reading the hooker web page right, it looks like
6211HKR will work with a 71 mustang with manual. It has
2 inch primaries and 3.5 inch collector. anyone used these
on a 71 mustang???

quote:

---

Originally posted by 71Mach1:
He would like to use a single plane intake manifold, probably
a torker, but he would like something more like a victor (which
they don't make for the clevelend?). Any recommendation ...

Holley Strip Dominator 351 C-4V (300-13)
- high rise air gap open plenum single plane with Holley carb bolt pattern

---

That's the best one available for all out racing. But, they can be rather tuff to find, or expensive once you find one. The plenum on it is huge.
Don't count the Torker short though. It works really well on a cleveland, much better than on other motors, especially if you have room for an open spacer and do a little grinding in the plenum area. Hood clearance shouldn't be an issue with either.

The Weiand Xcelorator isn't very good for the 4v heads, and would be my last choice for anything.

I know they are hard to find.