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Author Topic:   Good news and Bad news
71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-02-2004 10:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, the good news is that I got a "top 20
mustang" plaque at the Fun Ford Weekend at
Englishtown.

The bad news is that on the way home, going
north in route 9, I was engaged in a little
"comparative acceleration" when something
let go in the engine. The noise was pretty
bad. The engine died and I had to force the
car over to the side without power steering
or brakes. The engine would not turn over
at all. Not sure what went. I was expecting
to see parts hanging down when I looked
underneath, but I didn't see anything, not
even any fluid leaking. I don't think it
was the clutch, I can still push it in and
it fells normal, but the engine will not
turn over with the clutch in. That's the
first time I've gotten stranded by the
car (since I got it 11/1/97).

So, I've off to visit L&M tomorrow night.
I was going to rebuild in the fall, so it's
just moved up. I hope that I didn't
damage the block or heads so that they can't
be reused.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-02-2004).]

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-02-2004).]

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JCQuinn@work
Gearhead

Posts: 898
From: Lakewood, CO, USA
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 06-02-2004 10:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCQuinn@work   Click Here to Email JCQuinn@work     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Ouch.

John

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20638
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 06-02-2004 11:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Hope it's an easy fix Randy.

you guys with the big Mustangs sound alike.

------------------

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 06-02-2004).]

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-02-2004 11:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Not Ray, actually Randy. (71 not 7D)

I was going to do a 351C->408 stroker rebuild
al la 7DMach1 later this year, so it's
not that much of a bummer. I just hope that
the block/heads are OK.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-02-2004).]

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clevelandstyle
Gearhead

Posts: 1189
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 06-02-2004 01:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for clevelandstyle     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Bummer about the engine. The good thing is these things always give you an excuse to upgrade. You will love the 408C.

------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 408C 4V, best time to date is 10.50 @ 125mph

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6395
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 06-02-2004 02:25 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I hope it's not too bad. But my experiance has been that when it wont turn over, generally something is broke really bad inside.

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Daniel Jones
Gearhead

Posts: 872
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-02-2004 03:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Daniel Jones   Click Here to Email Daniel Jones     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Bad nosies inside a Cleveland. Did this have the stock keepers and valves?

Dan Jones

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-02-2004 06:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I don't care about the internals at this
point, everything is getting replaced
anyway. I just hope the block/heads
are OK.

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-02-2004 09:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Here is some info on the car...
Block: 1972 Ford 351 Cleveland, Stock Bore, 2 Bolt Mains
Crank: 1972 Ford 351C, Cast Iron, Ground and Polished .010/.010
Heads: 1970 Ford 351C 4V Heads, 10.7 compression
Valves: Manley Stock Replacement 2.19" intake 1.72" exhaust
Springs: Crane 95 psi on the seat, 320 psi open
Studs: ARP 7/16"
Guideplates: Manley
Pushrods: TRW - Hardened Chro-moly for use w/ guideplates
Rockers: Stock Ford 1.73 ratio w/Boss 351 Fulcrums & Crane Locknuts
Oil Pan: Stock Ford, Boss 351 w/slosh baffle
Timing Chain: Cloyes Tru-Roller #93121
Fuel Pump: Holly High Output #12-854
Distributor: MSD
Carb: Holley 4 barrel, 750 cfm, electric choke, Vacumn secondaries
Cam: Ford Motorsport # M-6250-A341


at .006" lift
292/302 Duration (intake/exhaust)
Intake opens at 34 degrees, closes at 78 degrees.
Exhaust opens at 83 degrees, closes at 39 degrees.
Overlap is 73 degrees

at .050" lift
214/224 Duration (intake/exhaust)
Intake opens at 0 degrees BTC, closes 34 degrees ABC.
Exhaust opens at 49 degrees BBC, closes -5 degrees ATC.

.510"/.536" Lift (intake/exhaust)
107/117 degree lobe centers
Overlap is 73 degrees
Lobe separation is 112 degrees

Lifters: TRW Hydraulic
Intake: 1970 Ford 351C 4V
Ignition: MSD 6AL (6500 RPM rev limiter)
Coil: MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Headers: Hooker Competition #6915, 1 3/4" tubes, 2 1/2" collector, ceramic coated
Exhaust: 2 1/2 inch steel pipe
Mufflers: Flowmaster 3 chamber #42550
Tailpipes: Flowmaster 2 1/2 inch Aluminized #15807

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6395
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 06-02-2004 11:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 71Mach1:
I just hope the block/heads
are OK.


In my past experiances, one or both of the above are junked. I hope I'm wrong, but generally if something breaks bad enough to stop it from turning over, it broke other, more important parts also.

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-04-2004 09:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Met with Michael Rauscher at L&M engines
last night. I was very impressed. It's great
to find someone who really cares about the
quality of their work. We discussed the basic
plan to stroke to 408, solid lifter roller
cam, roller rockers. He will be designing a
custom cam grind based on flow data and
measurements from the heads. I'll provide more
info as the build progresses.

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clevelandstyle
Gearhead

Posts: 1189
From: Connersville, IN
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 06-04-2004 07:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for clevelandstyle     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 71Mach1:
I'll provide more
info as the build progresses.

Please do.

------------------
Ben
Grabber Green '70 Mach I 351C 4V
Robbin Egg Blue '79 Fairmont 408C 4V, best time to date is 10.50 @ 125mph

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Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 661
From: Killingworth, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 06-10-2004 07:36 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller   Click Here to Email Hemikiller     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Randy, sorry to hear that the motor has a major problem. Like Dan said, it's probably one of the valves either lost a head or dropped. If I had known about that problem when I built it, I would have used a higher performance single piece/single groove valve. Guess the Manley replacement valves aren't up to the kind of task they were asked to do.

FWIW, it is almost 10 years to the day that your 351 was first fired off. Man, that was a great day...

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-10-2004 12:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Drop off at Glaziers is scheduled for 6/25.

The engine should get to L&M shortly after
that. I expect the build to take 4-8 weeks,
but it could take longer if I need to find
new heads or block.

Glaziers is going to re-do the engine
compartment, that's the only part of the car
that has not been really re-done and it's
probably the weakest part in car shows.

A couple of things I'm going to talk to
them about.

1) custom built hood. If I need more hood
clearance (and maybe even if I don't) I would
like to get a custom hood with the center
section of the 71 ram air hood raised. I'm
not talking about the cowl induction
fiberglass hoods that have a bow tie type
raised section in the middle. What I want is
the entire raised center section of the 71
ram air hood raised by 2-3 inches. This
increase would be where the raised section
is now in the front and sides, just with
the rise going higher and the openings being
larger. I think that would look really
cool. I would rather have a steel hood
(would probably use a re-pro rather than
cut the NOS one on the car) but it might
have to be fiberglass. For the steel one
you would have to cut the center section
out and the add material on the front
or sides. Not sure if this is feasable
cost wise (I'm sure anything can be done
with enought time and money). The other
option is to go with a glass hood, not sure
if any of the makers would be up for something
like that or what the cost would be.
Any ideas on this??

2) Back halfing the car. I was thinking of
some form of mild tubbing and a 4 link. I
don't think there is anything made for this
car, so we would have to find the closest
thing and make it fit. Not sure about the
inside, the back seat/trim might have to
be modified. The current rear could be
narrowed. I have a problem with the leaf
springs sagging, they were rearched, but
they have sagged over the last two years
with the drivers side down much lower than
the passenger side (since it's usually just my
250+ rear end in the car). My wife was not
amused when I suggested she needs to ride
with me more to get things back in balance.
I think there might be more options with the
4 link interms of controlling the rear height.
I want to run 15x10 (at least) on the rear.
I can get Magnum 500s in 15x10 and that would
look pretty cool under the rear, but I want
to keep the tires mostly under the fenders.

Anyway, these are some ideas I've been kicking
around, comments are welcome. I'm not sure
if either will happen, but you've got to
have some plans in the works or it gets kind
of boring.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-10-2004).]

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-10-2004).]

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MrXerox
Gearhead

Posts: 348
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 06-11-2004 01:11 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for MrXerox   Click Here to Email MrXerox     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Being a 71 Mach owner myself, I think that if you start hacking up that car into a resto mod vehicle you will regret it in the end. There are not many 71-73s in the shows out there as it is let alone true Mach 1s and if you start modding too many things that make it a Mach in the first place I think it will be frowned upon more than praised. Please dont take any of this offensively, Its just that everytime I see a Mach that has been done this way it makes me wonder if it is really a Mach or a fake. Over the course of time mods like this will badly hurt the resale value of the car. If you want a race car, rescue a regular 71-73 from a salvage yard and build away

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-11-2004 11:40 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Don't worry, it ain't a real Mach 1.
(look at the pics and see if you see
what gives it away).

Started life as a LIME green
sportsroof with 302 2V and an automatic.

Much better off the way it is today.

Re-sale value is not an issue.
I will never get out (monitarily) what I
put into it and have no intention of
ever selling.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-11-2004).]

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 06-11-2004).]

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-27-2004 09:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dropped the car at glaziers on friday.
The engine should be at the builders
early next week. Then we'll find out
if the heads or block are damaged.

Talked about some options for the
engine compartment. Perhaps painting
the bay body color (grabber yellow) with
a flat overcoat.

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Tom G
Gearhead

Posts: 723
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 06-27-2004 08:40 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tom G   Click Here to Email Tom G     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 71Mach1:
[B]Drop off at Glaziers is scheduled for 6/25.

Are you stopping by on customer app day on the 17th of Jul? I was a couple cars down from you at Etown BTW Clearwater Aqua fastback. Got to hot Sun to hang past 3:30 fiveOfastback and I left and got our plaque in the mail 10 days later. BTW sorry to hear about the engine problems.

------------------
67 Mustang F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine RPM Air Gap 600 Holley Dynomax ceramic coated headers T5, cable clutch conversion Flowmasters X Pipe 3.89 equa loc 9". Clearwater Aqua GT Clone Vintage wheel works 16x8 40 series 225 front 255/50 rear drag radials 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph (New times when better weather gets here)!

[This message has been edited by Tom G (edited 06-27-2004).]

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 06-28-2004 08:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Yea, planning on going to Glaziers on the
17th if the weather is good.

We stuck it out till the end, my son (8)
is a trooper, he loves it when we get an
award, he was in the front of the group
picture.

Hope to see you there.

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Greg Pettit
Gearhead

Posts: 125
From: Dallas, TX
Registered: Nov 2001

posted 07-01-2004 10:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Greg Pettit   Click Here to Email Greg Pettit     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
As far as making room for more tire, I have done this on my '71 Torino. Got 15x10 wheels with 325/50/15 tires to fit with PLENTY of clearance. Still used leaf springs, just moved them inboard of the frame rail and made a new rear subframe. Details left to do are install the trunk floor and gas tank, and finish up the pass side wheelwell and seamseal the whole job.

Since the 71-73 Mustangs and -70-71 Torino share so many parts and designs, maybe you could get some ideas from my project.

This is a link to some pics I have taken so far in the process.

http://groups.msn.com/MyFordandMercury/gregs1971torino.msnw?Page=1

Good luck!

Greg

------------------
'71 Torino GT

466, Edelbrock CJ RPM heads, 11.15:1, 250/262 solid flat tappet, .614/.640 lift, 850 DP, C6 w/3500 stall

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 07-16-2004 09:50 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Got these pics from the engine builder without much comment about what they mean.

Anyone want to analize? Looks like a broken valve and piston?

The major question is are the block and heads ok? He said they would let me know
after cleaning and Magnafluxing so I'm assuming he didn't see anythying with the heads/block right off the bat.

http://home.comcast.net/~jodiseth/351C-001web.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~jodiseth/351C-002web.jpg

Got this update....

The exhaust valve broke (overheat (coolant or combustion) and/or detonation) destroying the piston.

Usually this failure is very deadly, breaking the block and/or head.

With a casual examination the block and head look OK, although Magnaflux will be the final crack check.

[This message has been edited by 71Mach1 (edited 07-16-2004).]

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n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 2680
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 07-16-2004 05:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike   Click Here to Email n2oMike     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Typical 351C broken valve syndrome...

NEVER use stock valves in a 351C. They are junk. Their heads tend to pop off and junk the engine. Always use one piece stainless, single groove valves... even on a stock rebuild!

What your pictures show, is how 95% of 351C's with stock valves die. The lifters pump up, (when hydraulic cams are used) the valve tags the piston, the head pops off, and the engine is junk. Run a small solid cam and good valves, and the engine will live a long, happy life.

Now you know...

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 07-30-2004 03:12 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Looks like one head will need to be replaced.
They'll know for sure about the block when
they rough bore it on monday.

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 08-03-2004 09:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Looks like I need a new pair of heads.

DOAE 4V

anyone have any sources??

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 08-03-2004 12:57 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Nevermind, just scored a set on ebay.

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 08-30-2004 02:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The block is being drilled for 4 bold mains (just a little
insurance), 4340 forged crank, H beam rods.

The builder says the heads need a little port work to hit
our target (500HP) based on the flow data.

He would like to use a single plane intake manifold, probably
a torker, but he would like something more like a victor (which
they don't make for the clevelend?). Any recommendation for
a more victor-like intake for the cleveland???

The other options besides the Torker seem to be


Holley Strip Dominator 351 C-4V (300-13)
- high rise air gap open plenum single plane with Holley carb bolt pattern

Weiand xcelerator 4v

Do these have bigger runners/plenums than the Torker?
That was what he meant by "more like the victor".

Also, will I have hood
clearance problems?? I don't really like the fiberglass
hoods for the 71 mustang, looks too much like a bow-tie
cowl induction hood. I'd like to see one where the entire
center section with the scoops is raised. I don't think anyone
makes that, not sure how easy it would be to fabricate.

Also, he wanted bigger headers, I currently have the
Hooker Competition #6915, with 1 3/4 primaries and 3 inch
collector (I think those are the numbers).
What are other people running with their
408s??

If I'm reading the hooker web page right, it looks like
6211HKR will work with a 71 mustang with manual. It has
2 inch primaries and 3.5 inch collector. anyone used these
on a 71 mustang???

thanks for any help!

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6395
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 08-30-2004 03:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by 71Mach1:
He would like to use a single plane intake manifold, probably
a torker, but he would like something more like a victor (which
they don't make for the clevelend?). Any recommendation ...

Holley Strip Dominator 351 C-4V (300-13)
- high rise air gap open plenum single plane with Holley carb bolt pattern



That's the best one available for all out racing. But, they can be rather tuff to find, or expensive once you find one. The plenum on it is huge.
Don't count the Torker short though. It works really well on a cleveland, much better than on other motors, especially if you have room for an open spacer and do a little grinding in the plenum area. Hood clearance shouldn't be an issue with either.

The Weiand Xcelorator isn't very good for the 4v heads, and would be my last choice for anything.

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TomP
Gearhead

Posts: 6000
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99

posted 08-30-2004 07:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TomP   Click Here to Email TomP     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I can't imagine why you'd want to back half the car. Is this just for looks? If so that practice is all but dead, not saying you'll be laughed out of car shows but with so many cars running 8's on tires that fit the stock wheelwells i see no useful purpose in this unless you plan way more than 500hp. The 10" wide wheels fit easily in a 71-73 Mustang. A 67-70 housing and axles or even axles with the 1965-66 width allow for a very deep-looking 10" wheel.

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 08-30-2004 08:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
back half probably won't happen.
they are going to give me a little more
room in the wheel wells, as you say should
be able to fit 10in wheels with only
little sticking out.

If I did it it would be mostly for
looks. I do like the look of really wide
tires under the fenders.

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71Mach1
Gearhead

Posts: 216
From: new jersey
Registered: Aug 99

posted 09-07-2004 03:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for 71Mach1   Click Here to Email 71Mach1     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Anyone have a source for a Strip Dominator
for a 351C????

I know they are hard to find.

Thanks

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