How many miles on it? What are the cam and spring specs, and valvetrain components? What kind of heads?

The intake will for sure need to come off, and then you'll be able to make a firm diagnosis of what has happened.

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

Cam is an Isky solid 290 adv and [email protected] and .512 lift w/1.6 rockers.

I'd dump the block for a roller motor. You can get a so much better cam anyways. The roller blocks are out there and cheap too.

Which Cly got wiped? #1 or #5?

See ya!

Les

Here are some pics,

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bl oose2/album?.dir=/7179&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bloose2/my_photos

All others look good. I haven't pulled them all out but none of them are 1/4 down in the bore like the bad one was, so I assume they are all good. I'll know more tomorrow when I pull the cam out. What really sucks is I'll have to wait until next week to talk to Isky. The good lifter in the pictures is from the exhaust and the bad from the intake. What the heck would cause this? I don't think it is something I did as it is just one lifter. If I adjusted them wrong you would think there would be others bad. The push rod is not bent, the valve looks fine. I'm at a loss, what causes this?

I would go to a roller cam but I think I would have a hard time finding one with a good amount of duration but that would keep me under .550 lift with my 1.7 rockers. At this point I just want to get going. I don't want to have to buy new rockers, springs, etc. Plus the $500 price of going to a roller is a bit pricey at the moment. It's going to cost enough just to get back to square one here. A new block is out right now too. I spent good money on my current lower end and don't want to do it again until I have to. When it is time for a new block I think I'll be going 347 or maybe even a stroked 351. Likely, I'll stay with a 347 as I know the block will fit really nice.

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bl oose2/album?.dir=/7179&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bloose2/my_photos

May not be able to tell much but take a look anyway. Also I wiped the cam down with a red rag which is why there is red lint all over the cam. I wound up having 3 lifters bad. Another one with a hole in it and one that was just starting to go bad. The rest of the lifters look fine.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-302-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-302-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

I'll be calling Isky Tuesday morning. I'm hoping the'll warranty it but I'm not holding my breath. I just hope the next one doesn't do the same thing.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-302-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

Roller cams don't compair to flat tappet cams. A roller that looks tame will be just the oppsite.

Hopefully some one can offer you a cam, I've seen the Motorsports E303 in action and looks pretty good to me. I heard of guys running a B303 but you have to retard that cam 2 degrees.

Well see ya later, sorry to see ya have that sort of trouble.

Les

On another note, too many engines have had flattened lifters driven out from the camshaft side upon engine disassembly rather than pushing them straight down. What this does is score the lifter bore so that a new lifter is tight in the hole and subsequently does not turn freely. Absolutely important that a flat tappet style lifter rotate in its bore!!! If the lifter doesn't rotate, it will go flat.

Although a pain on some engines, just watching the pushrods to insure that they are rotating while the engine is running will give a quick indication of whether or not the lifters are rotating.

quote:

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Originally posted by ted:
....Although a pain on some engines, just watching the pushrods to insure that they are rotating while the engine is running will give a quick indication of whether or not the lifters are rotating.

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Ted, seems to me that the pushrod can rotate without the lifter rotating? I don't understand where the two are one...... Please explain.

Good Luck!

Good Luck!

All of the lifters slid into the bore very nicely and all lifter came out and looked perfect on previous cam swaps.

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check all of this out when I get the new cam. I'm still thinking that there is a problem with the cam or lifters.

quote:

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Originally posted by Ryan Wilke:
Ted, seems to me that the pushrod can rotate without the lifter rotating? I don't understand where the two are one...... Please explain.

Thanks!
Ryan

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Hey n2oMike, thanks for the compliment. I spend a lot of time out in the shop so I may go a several days between visits. Todays a holiday so I get to log on twice.

Ryan, Especially on a solid lifter flat tappet camshaft, the pushrods will rotate along with the rotation of the lifter when the engine is running. I say especially on a solid lifter camshaft because there is a period of no load on the pushrod where it's riding with the lifter and hence, if the lifter is rotating, then pushrod will rotate along with it if by nothing else than the oil tension at the base of the pushrod. A hydraulic flat tappet camshaft on the other hand may have the pushrod not rotating all the time with the lifter rotation if the drag at the rocker arm end exceeds the frictional forces between the pushrod and lifter itself. All these scenarios are of course with the engine running.

If the lifter isn't rotating with the engine running, then there's no reason for a pushrod to rotate unless something else is helping it along. On the other side of the coin, just because the pushrod isn't rotating doesn't mean that the lifter isn't. Hope that was clear. Clear in my mind but sometimes not so clear getting the point across. It's hell getting old.

Still getting back to the original question, non lifter rotation is only one of a myriad of reasons a cam can go flat. I saw your pics and hard to say exactly what happened in your case. Have seen the holes through the lifters before and the reasons vary from brand new engines to high mileage ones. Recently saw a case where all the lifters went flat on a new Brand X engine and the problem was the cam plug not allowing the camshaft to fully seat back far enough thereby throwing all the lobes out of sync with the lifter holes. Makes me love those cam thrust plates all the more.

quote:

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Originally posted by wildfire466:
Re: Bloose,
I heard of guys running a B303 but you have to retard that cam 2 degrees.
Les
Why retard the "B" cam?

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B-loose, don't assume there is no coil bind just because AFR says so. Check it yourself. Nothing against AFR but always check modified parts, there is often something not right.

Breaking a flat tappet cam in with only the outer springs is a good idea. After break-in put the inners back in. (one more reason to go roller)

Don't worry about power output from a roller cam. They will make all the power you can use.

I did check for coil bind and I had lots of clearence. I called AFR just to double check. From what I measure what they said seems to be correct. From my measurments I should be able to go to about .600 lift, but AFR says they can only recommend .550, if I go more than that I'm on my own. So without starting with a clean sheet, I need to stay under .550 lift.

John