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Author
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Topic: aluminum radiator antifreeze
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torino420
Gearhead Posts: 115
From: Tracy, California
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 05-27-2004 09:52 AM
   
Looking for any recommended specifc brand, i know i should completely flush my system out and use distilled water. Just curious on the antifreezethanks ------------------
69 Torino GT Hardtop
420" Windsor
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2060
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-27-2004 03:44 PM
If you run your car on the street, I'd suggest you just use your normal (green) antifreeze and water mixture - nothing special. However, most tracks don't want you to run anti-freeze in your coolant system IF it's a trailered car. Their reasoning is based on if you have a "spill", antifreeze is difficult to clean off of the track. Since my '69FB is trailered, I use distilled water and a bottle of Red Line "Water Wetter" in my Griffin aluminum radiator during the racing season. Come November 1st, I drain it and store it for the winter with 50/50 anti-freeze/H20 in the system. Just my 2 cents,
Ryan 
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JCQuinn@work
Gearhead Posts: 826
From: Lakewood, CO, USA
Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 05-27-2004 04:10 PM
Ryan, why don't you just store it dry? That is what I have always done.I'm curious if there is some reason I should do it your way. John
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2060
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 05-30-2004 09:10 AM
quote:
Originally posted by JCQuinn@work:
Ryan, why don't you just store it dry? That is what I have always done. I'm curious if there is some reason I should do it your way. John
Well John, the simple reason I keep it "wet" is because I start it once a month and run it (on jack stands; speedo says 20-30mph, until engine temp gets to 180*F). Maybe you'll think I'm silly for thinking this way, but I feel that by running it up to temp every month: - I get the oil splash re-applied inside the engine, trans & rearend; - it likely moves my valve springs into a different setting; - it gives all the seals (axle, pinion, front & rear tranny, rear crank & timing cover) a splash of lube & a different setting; - nor do I need to be concerned about draining the fuel lines & tank. I won't start it when it's only 5*F in the garage - I'll heat the garage/car up to at least 35*F first. If I was running aluminum rods I'd probably heat the place up to at least 45*F prior to starting.... What do you think - Am I silly for doing this? Ryan
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Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 621
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 05-30-2004 03:00 PM
I don't think your silly, if it's been working for you. I start my car and bike during the winter every so often. Not a religous schedule but whenever we get a warm winter day.JMO,
B-loose
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JCQuinn@work
Gearhead Posts: 826
From: Lakewood, CO, USA
Registered: Jun 2001
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posted 06-01-2004 11:02 AM
I don't think it's silly. I just prefer draining all the fluids from the engine and gas tank. In the spring I pre-lube the engine before firing. I've never had a problem with seals but then my race cars come apart quite often to try different parts so the seals and gaskets don't have a chance to get old. Sometimes the engine spends the winter apart so the components can get checked and/or replaced.Different strokes. John
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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead Posts: 2060
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 06-01-2004 03:03 PM
 I hear ya, John. Hopefully, once I get more settled in my house/garage, I'll have the time/$$ to be able to spend more time racing & experimenting with different 'go fast' stuff... Ryan
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