The best 60 foot I have had has been 1.56 but that was only one time. Most of time my 60's have been around 1.65 to 1.70. This sucks for the combe I have. These times are with a Toploader, leaving the line at 4600 RPM. Now I am switching to a full forward manual rollerized C4 with a 4500 rpm stall converter. Here is my set-up.

69 Mach1 about 3250lbs. with me in it. I have Competition Slide-A-Link and caltracs mono leafs (225lbs.) Koni adjustable shock on all four corners (3 way adjustable). 9" with strange aluminum center section. 3.89 gears. The spring pads have been welded on at 4 degrees negitive angle. Twisted the old ones off the tubes. I run on 28 x 9 hoosier slick on weld pro star rims. Stock wheel wells.

The engine is a 69 block 351w stroked to 398 cubic inches. Scat forge crank and h-beam rods. JE dished pistons 11 to 1 compression. J302 motorsport fully ported heads 285cfm int. and 210cfm ext. @ 0.700", comp cams solid roller at .614 lift and 248 int. 252 ext. @ .050" duration. Comp cams pro magnum roller rockers. Victor Jr. intake port matched with a carb shop 750 dp (flows 930cfm). Had car on dyno, 471 RWHP at 6200 RPM, 450 RWTQ at 4100 RPM, this was N/A. Nitrous Express Twin stage 6 kit. Only one stage is hooked up and I only shot 100 hp.

My best time so far has been 11.72 N/A and 11.23 with a 100 shot. I never power shifted the car. I know there is much more to be had here. I need help PLEASE!!!

Please give me suggestion on were to set the Slide-A-Links and Shocks. Last year I found if I put a lot of pre load in the Slide-A-Link I hit the tires too hard and only spin. One time I set the front shock to their loose setting and the car was all over the track on the big end.

Where to begin? First of all yeah there is a lot more left in your combination!

First, loosen up your front suspension. Set shocks on loosest setting, remove weight, extend travel, etc.

Set your Slide a links with no preload, left rear shock on softest setting and right one click harder.

Set pinion angle at 4 degrees down. (I know you set your perches 4 degrees down, but is that the pinion-driveshaft angle?)

Based on your never power shifting the 4 speed I think you'll see 11.00s just with the swap to the C-4 N/A at that. But we gotta get it to hook better than it is now.

Try 14 to 15 psi in the slicks, keep upping the pressure till it falls off. This will help the top end handling. Also have it aligned with all the positive caster you can. 5-6 degrees would be nice if you can get it.
Your combo is very similar to my daughter's '66 https://mustangsandmore.com/ubb/Melissa.html
There's more, but this should get the discussion going. What were your trap rpms?

SteveW

p.s. WELCOME to M&M!

Thank you for the information. I real want to make this thing fly. I have seen the photos of your dauthers car and other cars that pull the front end pretty good. The most I have ever pull the tires is about an inch from the groud.

To answer your question I shift at 6000 RPM and normally cross the line around 5000 rpm. I know I did not have enough gear for the manual but I hoping it will be enough with the C4. Also want to keep this gear because I think it will be perfect when I spray the car. I want to cross the line around 6500. Also with the auto I plan on shifting at 6200 rpm. Never shifted there before because I was afraid of exploding the trans of clutch.

I should adjust the slide-A-link until the stop bolt just comes in contact with the top of the leaf spring?

SteveW

I am home now and I checked some of my time slips. My average speed is 116 to 117 mph. Sorry about the RPM deal, I do not usualy take notice to it, I know I shift to fourth at about 900 to 1000 foot mark.

No tranbrake, I will footbrake the car. I currently have the two step hooked to the clutch pedal and I think I will hook it up to the brake pedal. I will set the two step about 500 rpm below the converter stall speed. This should give me consistent launches. Then when I run the nitrous, I can switch it on at 500 rpm above the converter stall. This way will be a little easier on the converter and trans. Also will help with blowing the tires off.

I am hoping that I can have the car back together to race on the 30th of this month. I must make a business trip to Europe next week. I get home on friday and that will leave only Saturday to install the converter and make the adjustment you suggest. But I think I can get it all done.

Thank again for the help

P.S. I forgot to mention that I also have a rear anti-sway bar. It is only about a 3/4" solid bar. Do you think it is helping or hurting? Should I remove it?

quote:

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Originally posted by JPStangs:
Steve,

I am home now and I checked some of my time slips. My average speed is 116 to 117 mph.
{That's better }

No tranbrake, I will footbrake the car. I currently have the two step hooked to the clutch pedal and I think I will hook it up to the brake pedal. I will set the two step about 500 rpm below the converter stall speed. This should give me consistent launches. Then when I run the nitrous, I can switch it on at 500 rpm above the converter stall. This way will be a little easier on the converter and trans. Also will help with blowing the tires off.
{That'll work, but you'll want a T-brake later }

I am hoping that I can have the car back together to race on the 30th of this month. I must make a business trip to Europe next week. I get home on friday and that will leave only Saturday to install the converter and make the adjustment you suggest. But I think I can get it all done.
{Great let us know how it runs.}
Thank again for the help
{anytime}

P.S. I forgot to mention that I also have a rear anti-sway bar. It is only about a 3/4" solid bar. Do you think it is helping or hurting? Should I remove it?
{Remove it, it's just dead weight and could effect weight transfer to the right rear that you'll need}
[This message has been edited by JPStangs (edited 05-20-2004).]

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{SteveW}

I can't help, but the right guy is helping you anyways. My racecar is backhalved with ladderbars and coilovers, and my street/strip car has stock leaf springs and slapper bars. But based on the 60' times my S/S car runs, yours should be significantly faster than it is.

------------------
Rob Hetzler
member #773
'69 mustang, 351C, best 9.97 @ 133 mph 1/4, 6.18 @ 110.4 1/8 (til it blew up)
'70 mustang,351W powered (KK's racecar)
'93 F150 Lightning 15.33 @ 87 mph, completely stock with 187k miles
'60 Falcon wagon project car
'99 Pro Et track champion
'00 Mod ET R-up (with new car)

------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator

NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,& '04
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28

The Barry of BarrysGrrl

While we're waiting for the converter, how was Europe?

Europe was ok, only a work trip. Was in Graz, Austria my company has a manufacturing plant there. Was test a machine I designed. Really horsepower on this one, 40,000 hp pulp refiner.

Sounds like the typical business trip. And some people think they are a "vacation perk". LOL

My 4-speed car runs the best when launched WFO at redline without the nitrous, and just a little shy of that launching with the bottle on.

What type of clutch were you using?

Good Luck!

quote:

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Originally posted by JPStangs:

No tranbrake, I will footbrake the car. I currently have the two step hooked to the clutch pedal and I think I will hook it up to the brake pedal. I will set the two step about 500 rpm below the converter stall speed. This should give me consistent launches. Then when I run the nitrous, I can switch it on at 500 rpm above the converter stall. This way will be a little easier on the converter and trans.

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I just noticed this part. My opinion is, unless you have KILLER brakes on the car, it wont hold that high. It will be too close to convertor lock up and it will still try and push it thru the lites. 1000 rpm less will probably hold fine, but I would bet 500 less than stall speed is too high. My convertor in my racecar will flash 6000 rpm (+ a little more in good air), it has Wilwood disc brakes all the way around, and about 4200-4400 is all I can hold it footbreaking.

quote:

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Originally posted by JPStangs:
I spoke with Marty Chance from chance converters and he said foot braking off the 2-step will work with the nitrous but not NA. He said that the engine will not clean out fast enough and will bog. What you think guy?

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That doesn't sound right to me. I leave off the 2 step with my transbrake and it doesn't bog, why would it be any different footbraking? Unless when footbraking you don't have the throttle wide open while on the chip, but I don't see any advantage to using it if you dont.

To two step a footbrake car, just hook the two step's wire to the brake light wire. Then when you release the brake the two step releases. You might want an arming switch for this so circuit. It won't bog, even N/A.

Also you kept increasing the launch rpms and the 60's got worse right? (clue)

How did the track temp change during the timr runs?

Did you get the 90-10 front shocks on yet? Could it have been that the front came down which caused the tire spin?

I kind of agree with you about the launch RPM. But I hot lapped the car with the 2-step set at 2800 rpm. The first run the 60' was 1.730 and the second pass was 1.583. These two passes were with no changes. After that I started raising the launch point and all my 60' were around 1.66. Correct me if I am, Am I not flashing the converter each time at the same place. I hold the gas to the floor and the two step is wired to the brake lights (Thanks for the tip)

I am going to try and see if the person I borrowed the camrea from can make the videos digital. Now I only have them on 8mm tape.

Track temp was pretty much the same all day. Also I have not put on the 90/10's yet. I was hoping o make the koni shocks work. I see Summit has some 90/10 for around 30.00. Do you know if they are any good.

I e-mailed you a video. Please let me know if you need more. Thank you very much for your help. I was run 14 psi in the slicks.

Well I got the car to the track saturday and sunday. It was the first races at this track for the year. We now have new owners and I think things are going to get good. Anyways I ran the car with the 90-10 shocks, reset Slide-A-Links (1 turn preload drive side & 2 turns preload passager side), and 12 psi in the slicks. The 60's were much better, they were all around 1.54. I pick up around one mile per hour and the ET's dropped another 2 tenths. Best time for the weekend was 11.23 all motor. Things went pretty good until I decided to make a nitrous pass. The fire ball that came out of the hood scoop was really cool. The starter that emptied the dry chemical down my carb was not cool. I did my burnout, cleared the carb, set the egt meter, and hit the arm switch for the nitrous. The nitrous started to flow as soon as I armed the system, while I was idling. By the way this was a 250 shot. Not good. Bend the throttle plates and shafts to ****. Good new is the motor was not hurt. I put on a friends 950 hp main body and base plate and when two rounds. I was using a 750 DP that has been ported. EGT temps on changed by 5 degrees between the two carbs. Tells me I did pretty go porting my carb. Now for the really bad news (not really). The company I work for offered me a job I can not turn down in Chile. So the car is now in storage until I return in Dec. 2006. But I am going to continue to frequent this board to get my FORD fix. Thanks you everyone for all the help.

Glad you got the suspension squared away! Good luck in Chile and don't bring home anything you don't want to keep. With the money you'll make you can put a real kick as$ motor in the 'Stang.

SteveW