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Author Topic:   Which coil springs launch the best?
RaSMG
Journeyman

Posts: 26
From: Central CA
Registered: Jun 2003

posted 05-19-2004 02:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for RaSMG   Click Here to Email RaSMG     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I know everyone says mono-leafs and cal-tracs, 90/10s and not to do the shelby drop but what about the front springs. I want to switch my 620's and move my control arm back to the stock location as I want more of a soft/launching suspension rather than an autocross suspension. Should I put in 6 cyl springs? I've heard they fit perfect and I've heard they're too tall, it's an orig v8 car. Should I put in the lowest psi progressive rate springs I can get, so they're light until they compress a bit? Or should I try the new Moroso trick front springs that JEGS is selling? They list one for a 1965-76 Mustang but with a big block 390/427/428. Would these work on a highpowered smallblock making about the same HP those were. It says Front End Weight: 1610-1680 lbs, Spring Rate: 242 lbs/in under the item description. The next question, might be asking too much but I'd like to keep the REAL low look of the front now, I have 1" drop springs plus the shelby drop and it's LOW especially with my back all raked. I was thinking of cutting the new springs but I don't think I can cut progressive rate or 'launch/trick' springs without effecting their performance. Anyone have any ideas?

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1718
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 05-19-2004 02:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well i know that cutting progressive rate springs will drastically change the ride in the vehicle as i've been in a few imports with cut springs and do they ever suck.

i belive also that the front springs for a big block are made for a big block due to the weight of the motor not the hp the motor is making, so the Moroso ones will probably hinder performance.

I'd choose the 6cyl springs, as i've known guys who ran them and seemed to work decent. But i'm sure you'll get more opinions from people on here.

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bud4660
Gearhead

Posts: 513
From: Mesquite, Tx. M&M #2925
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 05-19-2004 02:52 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bud4660   Click Here to Email bud4660     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well I had planned on using the 6 cyl springs on my 67 390 with the 90/10's. But Alex said go with the small V8 springs. So thats what I bought. If Alex would get my spring saddles done and back to me I could put them on and see....

And they tell me I'm old and slow.....
j/k...Alex... lol

------------------
1967 GT Fastback S code, C6, 4:56, tubbed, 10 point cage.

1998 GT Convert.(sold 11/29/03)
Mesh Grille, Air Silencer Trimmed
Automatic, 3:73 FRPP Gears, Mac Girdle, Moser Axles
Griggs Sub's, Welded/Plated Torque Boxes, Strut Tower Brace, Strange 10way Struts, MM HD lower control arms, Rear air bags
ProStars 15x10 w/295/50/15, 15x4 w/P195/75/15 and ARP Studs, 9/16" spacers

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CometGT1974
Gearhead

Posts: 372
From: Asheville, NC USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 05-19-2004 03:39 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CometGT1974   Click Here to Email CometGT1974     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
If you have to cut a spring to get the desired ride height, you've got the wrong spring.....but, in order to get the absolutely best spring for your particular application would require an expensive custom spring. You would also need to get an exact weight of the front end and corner weights would be nice. Unless you want to go through all that hassle, the best bet would be to go with a set of 6 cyl. springs which will probably make it sit too high for your taste. The way to fix that is to have the springs compressed. I ended up making up my own spring compressors out of 1" threaded rod and 1/4" steel plate since I couldn't find anyone around here to compress them....

In Dave Morgan's book "Doorslammers:The Chassis Book" it says to measure the spring at fully extended height and then compress the spring and put it in an oven at about 400 deg. for about 5- 10 minutes. Take the spring out of the compressor and measure it to see how much height it lost. This is a time consuming process and if you heat it too much you will ruin the spring but it is worth it in the end!!

Of course,the best spring is a custom made spring for your exact application!

[This message has been edited by CometGT1974 (edited 05-19-2004).]

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kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 6098
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 05-19-2004 06:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus   Click Here to Email kid vishus     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well, I've got factory 6 cylinder springs on the front of my 9 second mustang that have been cut one coil and they seme to work fairly well (considering the car will 60' in the low 1.30's all day with the front tires a foot and half off the ground.) We also have 6 cylinder springs on the front of my street car which KK has been racing, and it works real well too, especially considering the low dollar suspension system it has in back. (last weekend I raced it and out of 5 passes, 2 time runs and 3 rounds of elims, the slowest 60' was 1.695, and the quickest was 1.683, which it ran back to back the last 2 passes.)

Since they are relatively cheap, you can cut up to one coil off for your desired ride height, and if you ruin them, you aren't out much. I woudn't run the Moroso springs. They're basically an expensive TALL 6 banger spring. And from what I have seen, progressive rate springs dont work well on a car that needs to pitch rotate to launch well. There isn't enough stored energy to get the nose up.

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CometGT1974
Gearhead

Posts: 372
From: Asheville, NC USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 05-19-2004 08:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CometGT1974   Click Here to Email CometGT1974     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm running 6 cyl. springs also, with 1/2 a coil cut out....I would really like to have a set of custom springs though....

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rustang@home
Journeyman

Posts: 94
From: Clarion, PA
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 05-19-2004 09:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for rustang@home     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'm running the 6 cylinder springs. From what I've found, the 6 cylinder springs are the same as the '67 289 cars. In '68, they went with a heavier spring for the v-8's. At least that's what I've found when I've went spring foraging

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 05-20-2004 12:55 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Stock 6 cyl springs here. Very good front end lift, even on the street. Been getting 1.85 60' times on regular street tires, while most are using drag radials to get the same times. The ride height was real low with the iron heads, but just right with alum.

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67mustangdsa
Journeyman

Posts: 45
From: Xenia Ohio
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 05-20-2004 11:43 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 67mustangdsa   Click Here to Email 67mustangdsa     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Got stock 6 cyl springs here with 1/2 coil out on passenger's side and 1/4 out on driver's side using an FE motor with an aluminum intake. With carrea shocks and a good alignment, it goes 1.42 60's just about every pass and drives like a Caddy. It pulls the wheels pretty high. I am going to put another 95 lb in the trunk this weekend to move it to E weight to see how it if it likes D or E weight. It should hook up in oil now.
Shawn

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