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Author
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Topic: Created yet another problem for myself!!!
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Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 755
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 04-27-2004 12:22 AM
   
Man this is shaping up to be a bad year for my Fairlane already! After running the car into the garage I didn't think it would get worse, but...While the car is down waiting for the new radiator, I decided I would work on some nagging bugs I had. The first was to coat the headers. I tried standard powdercoating (the price was right  ) but it burned off immediately. So as soon as I ordered the radiator off came the headers to go get coated. When I was pulling the headers another nagging shortcoming was apparent. When I installed the tranny lines I ran them the best I could but they were close to the headers on the pass side. Whenever I have to pull the headers I have to disconnect the hard lines from the trans to get them out. It all turns into a big leaking mess! I really dreaded whenever I had to pull the headers. So I decided to go to steel braided lines. When I was putting in the new AN fitting into the trans you can guess what I did. I over tightened the upper fitting. I was giving it on last bit of turn when all of the sudden, I heard a little "SNAP". I knew right away what I did. There is now a hairline fracture where the upper coolant line goes into the trany. I am thinking I'll have to grind the area to clean it up and TIG weld the crack. Anyone have any other easier suggestion? I'm hoping I can do it with the trans in the car. On top of this I also have to pull the intake because it is leaking oil out of the front on the intake where I put the silicone to seal the valley. I must not have put it on thick enough. Not really a big deal but this is on top of everything else! Am I having fun yet???
B-loose [This message has been edited by Bloose (edited 04-27-2004).]
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wildfire466
unregistered
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posted 04-27-2004 11:19 AM
Ya, ugly for sure. Not sure on the welding part. If the case is Aluminum don't you have heat it first?As for the leak, if the engine didn't have some (pan evac) or PVC to vent the crankcase then untill the rings get seated you may have a bunch of blowby? See ya later!
Les ------------------
http://www.geocities.com/wildfire1mustang/
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Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 755
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 04-27-2004 06:28 PM
I think the crack could be TIG welded under ideal conditions but I think the oil in the casting will cause problems. After talking to some people I think I'm going to try JB weld or some product like that. If that doesn't work then I'm going to buy a AOD core and transfer my innerds into the core case. A big PITA if it comes to that but not much else I can do and there's not use to cry over spilled milk.B-loose
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BLstangin
Gearhead Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 04-27-2004 07:46 PM
I'm going to school for machining and had to weld a aluminum case for a dirt bike. It isn't that hard, but for it to properly work you would have to take the case only and bake it at I believe it is around 500 degrees and cook all the oil out of the metal or it won't work. As far as preheating, you just have to warm the area around the crack with a torch, but not really hot, then once it is welded, just let it air cool.------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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MidLifCrisis
Gearhead Posts: 540
From: Frederick County, MD
Registered: Oct 2001
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posted 04-27-2004 10:11 PM
For what it's worth, I feel your pain. Been there as well. I got so that I was afraid to wrench on the car; that one repair here would cause two repairs elsewhere. Keep a clear head and as Gibson said in the movie "The Patriot",
"...stay the course." Charlie
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Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 755
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 04-28-2004 02:09 AM
I think I need to slow down just a bit. Life has been so hectic for the last 14 months that I think I forgot how to take my time. I'll get through it though. I just need to take a deep breath and slow down a bit.B-loose
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 04-28-2004 02:13 AM
I know my brother inlaw swears by JB weld he uses it at his shop on everything. Sorry I can't be of more help. But I can understand the feeling of not having enough time. And rushing to get jobs done only to make more work. ------------------
SCOOP oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99
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posted 07-29-2004 04:47 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Fastymz:
I know my brother inlaw swears by JB weld he uses it at his shop on everything.
Of course! Doesn't he work at a Chevy dealership?  ------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 07-29-2004 05:02 PM
Yes he does, something has to hold those cars together.  ------------------
SCOOP oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics The older I get
The better I was
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Bloose
Gearhead Posts: 755
From: Milwaukee, WI
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 07-29-2004 09:33 PM
Hey guys the JB weld has been holding up well. But, I just found a new product. It's a type of welding rod for aluminum. You heat the aluminum with a propane or mapp torch till this rod melts on the aluminum without the flame. Then melt the rod on to the aluminum. It will fill cracks, weld pieces together, etc. I just got some to try and used it to weld some aluminum AC hard lines that I cut off my wife's Jeep. The stuff seems to work just as advertised! The say it will work on cast aluminum and pot metal and the repar is supposed to be stronger that the original aluminum. I guess it even works with oily castings. Because my JB weld repair is holding up I'm not going to mess with it but if I ever have the problem again I have plenty of the stuff around. I got it from JC Whitney for >$20 shipped. Thought I'd share as this stuff seems really cool. B-loose
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