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  Help installing headers on 351c??

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Author Topic:   Help installing headers on 351c??
72Qsam
Gearhead

Posts: 139
From: Petaluma, Ca, USA
Registered: Nov 2003

posted 04-10-2004 12:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for 72Qsam        Reply w/Quote
We have a stock manifold and getting ready to install hooker 6915's. Any suggestions or advice or tricks to the install as we are novices with patience. Also for a strip/street car any need to go more than 2 1/2 inch to the mufflers.

351c 4v
3.50 traclock
15.4 @ 89mph

Hemikiller
Gearhead

Posts: 726
From: Killingworth, CT
Registered: Feb 2002

posted 04-10-2004 08:54 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Hemikiller        Reply w/Quote
72Qsam, the 6915's are about the easiest to install header wou will ever own.

First thing, if it's in the way, remove it, don't try to work around it. Makes that patience last alot longer.

You may want to pull the cowl to shock tower braces, makes life alot easier, especially if this is your first time.

BE SURE to reinstall them when you're done!!

Check to see that all bolts slide into the flange holes easily. You may have to clearance (ding) the tubes for the upper bolt on #2 & #6.

Get a selection of 7/16" sockets and wrenches. I use a normal 7/16" combo wrench, a long 7/16" box wrench, and 7/16" sockets, both deep and shallow.

Use the Hooker gasket supplied. I have used (and re-used) them many times. Most other aftermarket 4V gaskets are larger than the exhaust port, which will cause the headers to leak horribly. Also, check the welds on the port flanges to ensure they are flat, if not, hit them with a flat file.

Passenger side header can go in from the top, provided you do not have A/C, in which case the hoses MAY interfere....

Driver side has to go in from the bottom. Remove the clutch Z-bar, and the backdrive rod to the column (both auto and manual). This is the hard side, so have patience. If you have P/S, I'd unbolt the pump and lay it aside as the front lower on #5 can be a bear otherwise.

Don't tighten any of the bolts until you have all of them in.

I've installed the gaskets both dry and with a sealer. Last set went in dry, no problems as of yet. If you must use sealer, I recommend a copper based hi-temp, such as UltraCopper or MegaCopper.....

After you get the headers in and start the motor, let it run for 10 minumtes or so let cool for a bit and then go back over the bolts one more time. I would then check them one more time in about a week, then at every oil change.....

2 1/2" is just fine for a street/strip car. Flowmaster makes a beautiful system for the 65-73 Stang (they list it as 65-66, which is wrong), $320 at Summit. This is totally complete with hangers, clamps, the new 40 series mufflers and the most beautiful set of mandrel bent aluminized pipes you'll ever see.

If you get aggravated, take a break and go get a soda. Remember, it's just nuts and bolts....

Good luck, and if you need any more assistance, let me know...

[This message has been edited by Hemikiller (edited 04-10-2004).]

kid vishus
Gearhead

Posts: 7251
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 04-10-2004 09:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kid vishus        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Hemikiller:

Use the Hooker gasket supplied. I have used (and re-used) them many times. Most other aftermarket 4V gaskets are larger than the exhaust port, which will cause the headers to leak horribly.


The only gaskets for 4v clevelands I have found that are worth a darn are Mr G Ultra Seals. Everytime I have ran other brands, they have leaked, and leaked horribly, including the gaskets that have arrived with my Hooker headers.

Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 04-10-2004 11:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker        Reply w/Quote
Yes, as KV says, the Hooker supplied gaskets are crap. Very cheap.
Mr.G ultra seal (black) are the best I have found!

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Alex Denysenko
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