I have a '67 Mustang FB that I've owned since '84. About 10 years ago I built the motor to run the 1/4, but a divorce caused the car to sit and just in the last year I've been starting to get it out again.

I'm looking to make the car a bit more streetable (weekend fun car, but not for the drags) and would like to hear your opinions.

Also, I'm running a 700dp with 4 corner idle and milled choke tower. It behaves itself, but I put on a 600vs and the car pulled like a madman...a lot stronger than the 700dp. I had to take the 600 off due to chasing a surging, lean, vacuum leak kind of problem, but can the 700dp be setup to pull like the 600vs? Any suggestions?

Heres the engine specs:

Block:

289 bored .030
stock bottom end all rebuilt and balanced
ARP rod bolts
TRW forged dome pistons
11:1 compression

Heads and Valvetrain:

World Products (Dart II) 351 Windsor Sr. (early castings with the odd ��what were they thinking�� plug locations)
Manley 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust valves (5 angle valve job)
Screw-in studs, guide plates, hardened push rods
Harland Sharp roller rockers
Heads milled (along with the block decked) to give a 60cc chamber
Machined for Fel-Pro loc-wire gaskets

Crane solid lift cam: 284/294 (238/248 @ .050) 533/555 lift RPM range 3000-6500 (valve float 6800)
120lbs. Springs
cam set at 106.75 (.032 ahead)
Hamburger timing chain
High volume oil pump, deep pan

Induction:

Holley 700 DP (4 corner idle circuits, milled choke tower)
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake (replaced Victor Jr.)
Holley mechanical fuel pump (replaced Holley Blue pump)

Exhaust:

Hooker competition headers
2 ��full length exhaust with h-pipe and Dynamax mufflers

Ignition:

MSD distributor, coil, and 6AL ignition box w/ rev limiter

Clutch and Transmission:

Hayes steel flywheel
Centerforce clutch
Lakewood blow-proof bellhousing
Stock 4-speed top loader
Hurst shifter

Rear:

9��, 31 spline Moser axles, traction lock, 3.50 gears (replaced 4.57s)

Tires:

16x8 Vintage 45s with 225/50/16 rubber
Tires are just over 24"

Thanks for your help.

Paul

When was the last time you rebuilt and tuned the DP carb?

------------------
Nick
65FB 408c AOD D.T.

quote:

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Originally posted by dodgestang:
Unless the DP is flooding the car and bogging it down, you should have more power with it than the VS.

When was the last time you rebuilt and tuned the DP carb?

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Hey Nick, us VMFers are everywhere!

I'm going by seat of the pants feel on the carb which I know doesn't mean squat, but the neck snap and Gs are more apparent with the 600vs.
Its not that power surge when the secondaries kick in, its a power surge until you lift your foot off of the pedel.

I'm in the process of tuning the 700dp now. It just doesn't pull as hard. I guess you could say it doesn't rev as fast as the 600.

Is the check ball missing from the secondary vac chamber? Lot's of people pulled them out or lost them when rebuilding the carb. Also what Power Valve is installed in the 600?

Last idea some carb flanges don't fit well on the intake manifold. Might want to look and make sure ya got a good seal. You can check this with a propane tourch (un-lit) while the engine is running allow the gas from the torch (slowly) seep out and just go around the base plate and intake manifold. If there is a leak the engine will pick-up a few Rpms. You can use carb cleaner too but that can stain your manifold or create a fire if a plug wire shorts in the area of the cleaner.

Also you can allow some propane into the air horn of the carb, if it picks up a bunch of Rpm's your idle mixture can be too lean.

Just some ideas!

Les

I also put new bushings (teflon wraps?) in the 600vs, which seemed to get rid of the vacuum leak. Still need to tweak the 600 a bit though.

I'm thinking of replacing the cam, and see a lot written about the Comp 270s.
Is anyone running it with 11:1 compression on pump gas?
The reason I'm asking is that I can run mine now on 93 octane without it pinging, and want to know if I can get away with the smaller cam.