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  Distributor gears, which one to use?

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Author Topic:   Distributor gears, which one to use?
BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-22-2004 11:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
I'm getting a custom cam made for the 306. It will be a hydro roller cam. It will be made of billet steel. The company doing the cam is mme racing. They say that I should run a bronze gear as he knows it won't hurt the cam, but I might be o.k. with a steel gear. He can't say for sure though as he hasn't run many with the steel gears. So is there different grades of billet steel where some can get away with a steel gear and others need bronze, or should I just run a bronze and be done with it. How long does a bronze gear last? This thing is street driven and I need it to last a while on the street. Also I'm running a high volume pump if it makes a difference?

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-22-2004 11:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66        Reply w/Quote
Run the bronze gear! And check it often.

SteveW

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 03-23-2004 08:47 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
I don't have any experience with them, but how about Comp Cams' new composite-poly-whatever dist gears? If you read the propaganda, it sounds like a long overdue solution

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-23-2004 08:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
Todd, do you know where I can get one for a ford? I've seen them in summit for a chevy, but not a ford, I might go this way if I can find one for a ford.

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

Kellxr7
Gearhead

Posts: 700
From: Canada
Registered: Mar 2003

posted 03-23-2004 10:08 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Kellxr7        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by steve'66:
Run the bronze gear! And check it often.

SteveW


Doesnt the bronze one have to be replaced regularly (soft)? I use the hardened steel one & have been checking it regularly, just incase it was getting chewd up & its still like new after a couple thousand miles. All I know for sure is, not to use the cast gear as it will be eaten up within a couple hundred miles. (harsh lesson)

capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-23-2004 10:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man        Reply w/Quote
i got mine here. very knoledgble folks.
http://www.southernperformance.com/products.htm

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html

Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 2005
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-23-2004 02:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz        Reply w/Quote
on the comp website i see pn 35100 for ford, FW Beveled Tooth Gear, fits .530" with beveled tooth?

on summit it would be pn CCA-35100

not sure if it is the right size or anything, but it's the only ford one they list

V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4777
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 03-23-2004 03:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BLstangin:
Todd, do you know where I can get one for a ford? I've seen them in summit for a chevy, but not a ford, I might go this way if I can find one for a ford.


Give Summit a call, they may have some info on it. Either that, or call Comp direct.

I talked to the Comp guys at the Finals in Pomona last November, and they said the new gears for Ford applications were comming shortly. That was several months ago, so I imagine they're available now

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 03-23-2004 04:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike        Reply w/Quote
Ford uses steel distributer gears with their hydraulic roller cams.

Here's MSD's site that lists their STEEL gears used with hydraulic rollers.

http://www.msdignition.com/dist_63.htm

The part number for the 351W gear, which has a diameter of 0.531" is 85834

The part number for the 302 gear that is used with a hydraulic roller is 85833 It has a diameter of 0.468"

These gears need pressed on, and need installed at just the right height. They usually just have HALF of the roll pin hole drilled. You press it on, then use it as a guide to drill through the rest of the way.

Good Luck!

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

Daniel Jones
Gearhead

Posts: 972
From: St. Louis, MO
Registered: Aug 99

posted 03-23-2004 04:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Daniel Jones        Reply w/Quote
Mike,

In discussions with various cam grinders, the Ford gear is cast steel which is compatible with the usual hydraulic roller cam cores but not with the 8620 billet cores used for solid rollers. If BL's core is 8620, he may need to use a bronze gear or perhaps Crane's 8620 gear or Comps polymer gear. Rob McQuarroe claims they've had good success with a anti-friction coated powdered metal gear.

I answered a 351C distributor gear question a while back which I'll re-post here. It's geared towards 351C's but may be applicable:

> I am eating my distributor gear as most people on the list with solid roller
> lifter cams. After 2000 miles it's looking pretty shabby. I called comp cams
> to see if their polymer gear was available for a Cleveland. It is for a
> Windsor only. Comp cams claims that this new polymer gear does not wear out.

There are several options for 351C distributor gears:

1. Cast Iron
These are the standard distributor gears used on hydraulic and solid flat
tappet camshafts which use iron cores. Not compatible with most hydraulic
or solid roller cam steel cores. Some Comp Cams street rollers may be
compatible but not necessarily ideal. Note that some cast iron gears from
auto parts stores are substantially softer than OEM iron gears. Also note
that some cam companies use a harder core for certain race solid flat tappet
grinds which may require a bronze (or other material) gear.

2. Cast Steel
Compatible with hydraulic roller cam cores and with some street solid
roller cores (e.g. -8 Comp Cams street roller cores). P/N M-12390-J
(1.421" OD, 0.531" ID) from the FRPP catalog. According to MSD, the
Ford mild steel distributor gears (as fitted to engines with factory
hydraulic-roller-cams) is softer that the common ductile iron gears,
but harder than bronze. MSD also claims that Chevy uses a harder
cam core for it's factory hydraulic rollers and uses cast iron gears
but that its gears don't last as long as the Ford gears.

3. Bronze-Aluminum
Generally softer than iron. Compatible with most cam cores but wears
rapidly. A bronze distributor gear is essentially sacrificial, wearing
the distributor gear instead of the roller cam gear. Usually specified
for solid roller cams. Note that hardness can vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. If running one of these gears, you may want to run an
oil filter without a bypass so the filter catches the wear particles.
On a 351C, consider using Purolator oil filter number L30119. It's a
full size replacement for the FL-1A Ford/PH8A Fram filter. It has no
bypass spring in the middle but it does have the rubber flapper for
anti-drainback. The original application is for a 1978 Nissan 510, 2.0L
4 cyl engine (L20B) which had the bypass valve in the engine block.
This filter cross-references to a Fram PH2850, a Motorcraft FL-181,
and a Wix 51452. However, those filters have not been verified and may
have a bypass. It appears after 1978, Nissan went to a half height
filter. Purolator part number L22167 fits that application and does not
have the bypass spring but does have the rubber flapper for anti-drainback.
Race engines may want to run dual filters.

4. Machined 8620 Steel
A harder steel gear designed specifically for compatability with 8620
steel solid roller cam cores. Mike Trusty ran one of these and turned
it to powder in just a few miles. Asa Jay runs one and has reported no
problems yet.

5. Powdered Metal Composite with Anti-Friction Coating
Available for the 351C from Rob McQuarrie of Blue Oval Performance in
Colorado. He reports success using them on all cam cores.

6. Mallory Gear
Mallory makes a gear for their distributors that is made for
"austempered ductile iron billets" and "proferal billet" cams. It is
supposed to be compatible with the Comp Cams austempered iron cam cores.
As I understand it, the gear is heat-treated for compatibility.

More on the cam gear hardness problem. A few years back, Steve Grossen
ruined several cams and gears on a 351W which led him to Rockwell (B scale)
test several distributor gears. A generic auto parts cast iron gear tested
at 70, the bronze gear at 90, and the stock Ford gear was 102. Note that
the soft bronze gear was harder than the generic auto parts cast iron gear.
Steve eventually traced his trouble to a batch of cam cores with improperly
machined gears (Comp doesn't check each gear, only a statistical sampling).
Comp replaced the cams and eventually gave him one with the "NASCAR"
treatment" (filed, wire brushed on a wire wheel, and bead blasted).
Steve supplied some notes and photos of his ordeal which can be viewed at
Dave William's website:

http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/sgdist/sgdist.htm

> http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=11&s=69&p=4611&searchtype=ecat
> Buy it, and be done with it.

It's not that simple. Not by a longshot.

> I'm running one of these on the Mach I, with a roller cam. I'm up to I
> think my third oil change. That's like going on 10K miles. I've not
> checked the gear since new, but I've not encountered any timing problems
> yet either (knock on wood).

What's your cam core material and hardening? If I were you, I'd pull
the distributor and check the cam gear and the distributor gear. The
gear can be wear a fair bit before you notice any timing problems.

> The whole gear is bigger around on the Cleveland.

1.249" OD for Windsor, 1.421" OD for Cleveland. You can't swap cams either
as the Cleveland journals are larger. You might be able to have the gear
machined away and replaced with one of a compatible material and surface
treatment.

> Thanks Asa, however I was told by Comp Cams that I cannot run a steel gear
> with my camshaft.

Sounds like you have a -8 street roller.

> I guess I better buy a stack of distributor gears and keep them handy.
> In my application I only use the gear for driving the oil pump so accuracy
> isn't a problem. But if the gear stop turning I will lose my oil pressure.
> I am using the electromotive ignition.

If you are running a Comp Cams street solid roller grind, it may be a
-8 austempered ductile iron core (the wilder grinds are 8620 steel).
The surface treatment hardens the cam lobes so they can run a roller
lifter. Comp claims the -8 cores are compatible with either a cast iron
or cast steel distributor gear, with a cast steel gear being the better
choice. Not compatible are machined steel gears like the Crane gear that
Asa Jay mentioned. I have noticed in the latest Ford Motorsports catalog
that there is a new listing for a cast steel 351C distributor gear.
Comp said that was the preferred gear for their -8 cores.

No matter what gear you use, make sure the gear is in the proper location.
A replacement distributor gear may or may not have a holed drilled in it.
Ford cautions that the hole should not be used for alignment purposes.
Position the gear to the proper location, then drill a new hole 90 degree
to the old hole. Dykem the contact pattern. Pull and inspect gear after
a while. Make sure the gear is not bottoming out and binding and that the
oil pump driveshaft isn't too long. MSD recommends using a moly lube to
break-in the cam/distributor gears. They say squirting it on the gear is
insufficient and suggest using a toothbrush to work it into the pores of
the metal.

Dan Jones

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-24-2004 04:03 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
I called the cam grinder again and he uses 8620 billet steel, he uses the 8620 whether it is hydro or solid, he claims it just doesn't wear out. So how does the $340 it's going to cost just for the cam sound? It will be custom made to fit my car like a glove! I don't think it sounds to bad considering the type of steel he uses and it being custom.

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

Tea'sGrabber
Gearhead

Posts: 276
From: Seattle, Wash.
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 03-24-2004 05:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tea'sGrabber        Reply w/Quote
I've been running a bronze gear on my car for 7 years..... Use one...just make sure it is set up right....

------------------
Todd 71 Mav Grabber All orig 306 cu.in. Cast Iron heads. Carillo Rods.Best et. 10.71 @ 124 thru the mufflers.
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/TeasGrabber.html

cracing
Gearhead

Posts: 640
From: Saltillo Miss. USA
Registered: Jan 2002

posted 03-24-2004 07:07 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for cracing        Reply w/Quote
Pay CLOSE attention to the last paragraph in Dan's post. I know of two blocks that were ruined by a replacement dist gear with the pin hole in the wrong place. It was only slightly off but was enough that when you tightened down the dist. it caused the gear to bind against the boss on block wearing it severely & cracking the block at the thin area.

n2oMike
Gearhead

Posts: 3058
From: Spencer, WV
Registered: Jan 2001

posted 03-24-2004 08:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for n2oMike        Reply w/Quote
Personally, I'd just install a solid, flat tappet cam and not worry about it.

my $0.02

------------------
Mike Burch
66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads
10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

stroker man
Gearhead

Posts: 404
From: Denville NJ USA
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 03-24-2004 09:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for stroker man        Reply w/Quote
i had a bronze gear on my old 408w with hy roller it blew out on me going about 75 mph pretty dam scary i'll tell ya didnt know what was happening thought it was the msd going until i tried to fire it up on the side of the highway and boom biggest backfire you ever heard, now comp says they have cast iron gears on the hy roller which is ok for the cast gear on the msd, who knows my engine builder drilled a hole in the block somewhere he said would help get oil. any body know the real story on these cam gears.

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-24-2004 09:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
To late to go solid flat, I already ordered everything. How do you PROPERLY set up a distributor gear?

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

Tea'sGrabber
Gearhead

Posts: 276
From: Seattle, Wash.
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 03-25-2004 10:41 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tea'sGrabber        Reply w/Quote
BL..... It is a bitch to do... My suggestion is to buy the gear from MSD and send it and the dizzy to them.. They will press the gear on for you..They did mine for me when I bought it and as I said I have had no problems and very little wear.... It was like 20 bucks +gear+shipping!!!!

------------------
Todd 71 Mav Grabber All orig 306 cu.in. Cast Iron heads. Carillo Rods.Best et. 10.71 @ 124 thru the mufflers.
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/TeasGrabber.html

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-25-2004 11:07 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
I'd do that, but I like a challenge, so does anyone know the proper way to do it yourself. I like to be able to say that I did it myself, and if I ever need to do on a quick basis I will have the knowledge to do it.

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-25-2004 11:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BLstangin:
To late to go solid flat, I already ordered everything. How do you PROPERLY set up a distributor gear?


As posted by Dan,

"No matter what gear you use, make sure the gear is in the proper location.
A replacement distributor gear may or may not have a holed drilled in it.
Ford cautions that the hole should not be used for alignment purposes.
Position the gear to the proper location, then drill a new hole 90 degree
to the old hole. Dykem the contact pattern. Pull and inspect gear after
a while. Make sure the gear is not bottoming out and binding and that the
oil pump driveshaft isn't too long. MSD recommends using a moly lube to
break-in the cam/distributor gears. They say squirting it on the gear is
insufficient and suggest using a toothbrush to work it into the pores of
the metal"

Also Comp's bronze gear comes with an instruction sheet with the proper dimension from the gear to the base of the distributor.
Mine has been running two years now with no appreciable wear. Good luck,

SteveW

Tea'sGrabber
Gearhead

Posts: 276
From: Seattle, Wash.
Registered: Feb 2003

posted 03-25-2004 02:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tea'sGrabber        Reply w/Quote
Bl.... ok..... The MSD gear has instructions with it.... You're going to need a torch and a hydraulic press... That gear isn't going on there by hand... Good luck!

------------------
Todd 71 Mav Grabber All orig 306 cu.in. Cast Iron heads. Carillo Rods.Best et. 10.71 @ 124 thru the mufflers.
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/TeasGrabber.html

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-25-2004 03:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
O.k. my dad works at John Deere, so I have access to all sorts of cool tools. So what brand gear is the best? Is MSD the most wear resistant, or is there a better one?

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-26-2004 04:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man        Reply w/Quote
ok, the old gear is very easy to get off with a bearing press. (after removing the pin) then simply set both gears on a very flat smooth surface. run a small drill bit through the holes in the old one and let it hit the new one and you have a mark for one of the holes in the new one. install the new gear,(useing the bearing press) lining up the one hole you drilled with the hole in the dist shaft. then run a drill bit through the new hole and the shaft and out the other side of the new gear. install pin!! i have the exact measurments in a file if you would like me to e-mail it to you. i would post it here but i aint got enough sense to do that!! good luck

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-26-2004 05:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
MIke, I would really appreciate it if you would e-mail me the exact measurements, Thanks Brandon.
[email protected]

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

JCQuinn@work
Gearhead

Posts: 998
From: Lakewood, CO, USA
Registered: Jun 2001

posted 03-26-2004 06:04 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for JCQuinn@work        Reply w/Quote
I guess ignorance is bliss. I have put bronze gears on several distributors without a press or torch or measurements. I have never had a failure or a problem with any of them. If you don't know how delicate an operation is it must be easier to get it right.

steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9835
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-26-2004 06:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66        Reply w/Quote
John,

Me too, just a vice and a lead hammer.

SteveW

capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-26-2004 07:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man        Reply w/Quote
oh yea, i have done that many times also!! the press just makes it so much easier when you miss the hole a little and have to take it off and start over!!

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html

Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 22791
From: Reno Nv M&M #1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-26-2004 07:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz        Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by capri man:
just makes it so much easier when you miss the hole a little and have to take it off and start over!!


Missing the hole already and such a young guy too.

------------------
SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-26-2004 08:28 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man        Reply w/Quote
i knew something was coming from SCOOP when i reread my post!

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html

BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 856
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 03-26-2004 08:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin        Reply w/Quote
Thanks a bunch Mike I got your e-mail, it helped me out a lot. Oh ya, of course scoop has something dirty to say, he hasn't matured yet!

------------------
1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 10.3:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

capri man
Gearhead

Posts: 8777
From: doerun, ga.
Registered: Nov 2000

posted 03-26-2004 09:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for capri man        Reply w/Quote
i may grow old but i will NEVER grow up!!!

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

http://www.angelfire.com/ny5/billswebsite/pg06.html

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