------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

quote:

---

Originally posted by steve'66:
Run the bronze gear! And check it often.

SteveW

---

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

on summit it would be pn CCA-35100

quote:

---

Originally posted by BLstangin:
Todd, do you know where I can get one for a ford? I've seen them in summit for a chevy, but not a ford, I might go this way if I can find one for a ford.

---

Give Summit a call, they may have some info on it. Either that, or call Comp direct.

I talked to the Comp guys at the Finals in Pomona last November, and they said the new gears for Ford applications were comming shortly. That was several months ago, so I imagine they're available now

------------------
1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

Here's MSD's site that lists their STEEL gears used with hydraulic rollers.

http://www.msdignition.com/dist_63.htm

The part number for the 351W gear, which has a diameter of 0.531" is 85834

The part number for the 302 gear that is used with a hydraulic roller is 85833 It has a diameter of 0.468"

These gears need pressed on, and need installed at just the right height. They usually just have HALF of the roll pin hole drilled. You press it on, then use it as a guide to drill through the rest of the way.

Good Luck!

In discussions with various cam grinders, the Ford gear is cast steel which is compatible with the usual hydraulic roller cam cores but not with the 8620 billet cores used for solid rollers. If BL's core is 8620, he may need to use a bronze gear or perhaps Crane's 8620 gear or Comps polymer gear. Rob McQuarroe claims they've had good success with a anti-friction coated powdered metal gear.

I answered a 351C distributor gear question a while back which I'll re-post here. It's geared towards 351C's but may be applicable:

> I am eating my distributor gear as most people on the list with solid roller
> lifter cams. After 2000 miles it's looking pretty shabby. I called comp cams
> to see if their polymer gear was available for a Cleveland. It is for a
> Windsor only. Comp cams claims that this new polymer gear does not wear out.

There are several options for 351C distributor gears:

1. Cast Iron
These are the standard distributor gears used on hydraulic and solid flat
tappet camshafts which use iron cores. Not compatible with most hydraulic
or solid roller cam steel cores. Some Comp Cams street rollers may be
compatible but not necessarily ideal. Note that some cast iron gears from
auto parts stores are substantially softer than OEM iron gears. Also note
that some cam companies use a harder core for certain race solid flat tappet
grinds which may require a bronze (or other material) gear.

2. Cast Steel
Compatible with hydraulic roller cam cores and with some street solid
roller cores (e.g. -8 Comp Cams street roller cores). P/N M-12390-J
(1.421" OD, 0.531" ID) from the FRPP catalog. According to MSD, the
Ford mild steel distributor gears (as fitted to engines with factory
hydraulic-roller-cams) is softer that the common ductile iron gears,
but harder than bronze. MSD also claims that Chevy uses a harder
cam core for it's factory hydraulic rollers and uses cast iron gears
but that its gears don't last as long as the Ford gears.

3. Bronze-Aluminum
Generally softer than iron. Compatible with most cam cores but wears
rapidly. A bronze distributor gear is essentially sacrificial, wearing
the distributor gear instead of the roller cam gear. Usually specified
for solid roller cams. Note that hardness can vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. If running one of these gears, you may want to run an
oil filter without a bypass so the filter catches the wear particles.
On a 351C, consider using Purolator oil filter number L30119. It's a
full size replacement for the FL-1A Ford/PH8A Fram filter. It has no
bypass spring in the middle but it does have the rubber flapper for
anti-drainback. The original application is for a 1978 Nissan 510, 2.0L
4 cyl engine (L20B) which had the bypass valve in the engine block.
This filter cross-references to a Fram PH2850, a Motorcraft FL-181,
and a Wix 51452. However, those filters have not been verified and may
have a bypass. It appears after 1978, Nissan went to a half height
filter. Purolator part number L22167 fits that application and does not
have the bypass spring but does have the rubber flapper for anti-drainback.
Race engines may want to run dual filters.

4. Machined 8620 Steel
A harder steel gear designed specifically for compatability with 8620
steel solid roller cam cores. Mike Trusty ran one of these and turned
it to powder in just a few miles. Asa Jay runs one and has reported no
problems yet.

5. Powdered Metal Composite with Anti-Friction Coating
Available for the 351C from Rob McQuarrie of Blue Oval Performance in
Colorado. He reports success using them on all cam cores.

6. Mallory Gear
Mallory makes a gear for their distributors that is made for
"austempered ductile iron billets" and "proferal billet" cams. It is
supposed to be compatible with the Comp Cams austempered iron cam cores.
As I understand it, the gear is heat-treated for compatibility.

More on the cam gear hardness problem. A few years back, Steve Grossen
ruined several cams and gears on a 351W which led him to Rockwell (B scale)
test several distributor gears. A generic auto parts cast iron gear tested
at 70, the bronze gear at 90, and the stock Ford gear was 102. Note that
the soft bronze gear was harder than the generic auto parts cast iron gear.
Steve eventually traced his trouble to a batch of cam cores with improperly
machined gears (Comp doesn't check each gear, only a statistical sampling).
Comp replaced the cams and eventually gave him one with the "NASCAR"
treatment" (filed, wire brushed on a wire wheel, and bead blasted).
Steve supplied some notes and photos of his ordeal which can be viewed at
Dave William's website:

http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/sgdist/sgdist.htm

> http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=11&s=69&p=4611&searchtype=ecat
> Buy it, and be done with it.

It's not that simple. Not by a longshot.

> I'm running one of these on the Mach I, with a roller cam. I'm up to I
> think my third oil change. That's like going on 10K miles. I've not
> checked the gear since new, but I've not encountered any timing problems
> yet either (knock on wood).

What's your cam core material and hardening? If I were you, I'd pull
the distributor and check the cam gear and the distributor gear. The
gear can be wear a fair bit before you notice any timing problems.

> The whole gear is bigger around on the Cleveland.

1.249" OD for Windsor, 1.421" OD for Cleveland. You can't swap cams either
as the Cleveland journals are larger. You might be able to have the gear
machined away and replaced with one of a compatible material and surface
treatment.

> Thanks Asa, however I was told by Comp Cams that I cannot run a steel gear
> with my camshaft.

Sounds like you have a -8 street roller.

> I guess I better buy a stack of distributor gears and keep them handy.
> In my application I only use the gear for driving the oil pump so accuracy
> isn't a problem. But if the gear stop turning I will lose my oil pressure.
> I am using the electromotive ignition.

If you are running a Comp Cams street solid roller grind, it may be a
-8 austempered ductile iron core (the wilder grinds are 8620 steel).
The surface treatment hardens the cam lobes so they can run a roller
lifter. Comp claims the -8 cores are compatible with either a cast iron
or cast steel distributor gear, with a cast steel gear being the better
choice. Not compatible are machined steel gears like the Crane gear that
Asa Jay mentioned. I have noticed in the latest Ford Motorsports catalog
that there is a new listing for a cast steel 351C distributor gear.
Comp said that was the preferred gear for their -8 cores.

No matter what gear you use, make sure the gear is in the proper location.
A replacement distributor gear may or may not have a holed drilled in it.
Ford cautions that the hole should not be used for alignment purposes.
Position the gear to the proper location, then drill a new hole 90 degree
to the old hole. Dykem the contact pattern. Pull and inspect gear after
a while. Make sure the gear is not bottoming out and binding and that the
oil pump driveshaft isn't too long. MSD recommends using a moly lube to
break-in the cam/distributor gears. They say squirting it on the gear is
insufficient and suggest using a toothbrush to work it into the pores of
the metal.

my $0.02

quote:

---

Originally posted by BLstangin:
To late to go solid flat, I already ordered everything. How do you PROPERLY set up a distributor gear?

---

As posted by Dan,

"No matter what gear you use, make sure the gear is in the proper location.
A replacement distributor gear may or may not have a holed drilled in it.
Ford cautions that the hole should not be used for alignment purposes.
Position the gear to the proper location, then drill a new hole 90 degree
to the old hole. Dykem the contact pattern. Pull and inspect gear after
a while. Make sure the gear is not bottoming out and binding and that the
oil pump driveshaft isn't too long. MSD recommends using a moly lube to
break-in the cam/distributor gears. They say squirting it on the gear is
insufficient and suggest using a toothbrush to work it into the pores of
the metal"

Also Comp's bronze gear comes with an instruction sheet with the proper dimension from the gear to the base of the distributor.
Mine has been running two years now with no appreciable wear. Good luck,

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

Me too, just a vice and a lead hammer.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

quote:

---

Originally posted by capri man:
just makes it so much easier when you miss the hole a little and have to take it off and start over!!

---

Missing the hole already and such a young guy too.

------------------
SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.

------------------
mike r
racing is real
everything else is just a game.
81 capri-7.33 @92mph 1/8
1.54 60 ft.