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  Pro Magnum Roller Rockers on positive stop studs?

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Author Topic:   Pro Magnum Roller Rockers on positive stop studs?
Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-18-2004 12:46 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Can it be done? i'm looking at a used set, and figured since they were rebuildable it'd be a pretty good deal.

So can i run em??

thanks in advance

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1974 Tank(351W/c6)
My Page
everyone jumps on me when i say anything

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-18-2004 06:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
please, someone? don't want to loose the deal because i don't know. it sucks being a engine noob

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 03-18-2004).]

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9489
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-18-2004 06:43 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dubz,

Replace those stock studs with screw in studs and they'll work fine.

SteveW

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-18-2004 07:02 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
would they work for a short while with the press in positive stop studs? or not at all?

or are the press in studs 5/16?

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 03-18-2004).]

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SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-18-2004 07:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
No, they won't work with the positive stop studs, and you really don't want to get into removing the studs and replacing them with press in straight studs. The chances of them pulling back out are fairly good if you plan on revving the engine at all.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-18-2004 07:13 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
i see
about how much would it cost to have the heads machined for 3/8 studs? prolly over $50 eh? plus the stud cost...

be better to go with other rockers then i think, that are just a straight swap such as the regular Magnums

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 03-18-2004).]

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SteveLaRiviere
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Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-18-2004 07:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Well over $50. You can do it on the car yourself, but that's a lot of hassle for a minimal payback.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-18-2004 07:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
k, thanks steve

do you know offhand if the positive stop press in studs that came on the sbfs are 5/16" or 3/8"?

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SteveLaRiviere
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Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 03-18-2004 07:20 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I want to say 11/32 but I'm not sure.

------------------
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9489
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-18-2004 09:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
SteveL,

The pressed in positive stop studs were 3/8" with 5/16" threaded section. They are not worth using on a performance application. I had them for a while with the '69 heads on Mel's 289 for a while. Dubz needs to lose them at least! Screw in studs need the heads taped on a drill press to be sure the holes/studs are straight.

SteveW

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-18-2004 11:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
if the heads come off the whole shebang is getting changed, milling, porting, & studs. And i don't have money for all that at the moment.

Alex told me that the magnums will be ok on the press in studs.
They should be better than the weak stockers, and until i put a cam in they'll be the best option i think, still have all the stock valvetrain at the moment

i have a drill press at home (and it's a floor standing unit), but how would i ensure straigtness if i do it? is it perpendicular to the bottom face of the head?

and if i'm going to change to screw in studs should i go with the 7/16 instead?

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 03-18-2004).]

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9489
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 03-18-2004 11:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dubz:
i have a drill press at home (and it's a floor standing unit), but how would i ensure straigtness if i do it? is it perpendicular to the bottom face of the head?

and if i'm going to change to screw in studs should i go with the 7/16 instead?

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 03-18-2004).]


Dubz,

7/16 is better

The stud holes are not perpendicular to the gasket surface, but you can find the right angle and pivot the bed of the drill press after you pull the pressed in studs with a tight fitting bit. Good luck,

SteveW

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-19-2004 12:18 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
so you'd suggest doing that all at the same time? not spreading out the cost over a couple months / a whole summer?

there wouldn't be any problem running the magnum rockers, just the roller tiped ones, on the stock studs, would there? cause i have money for them now, but not money for everything now

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mustangboy
Gearhead

Posts: 1098
From: Ont, Canada
Registered: Mar 2002

posted 03-19-2004 12:28 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for mustangboy     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I would leave the job of drilling and tapping the stud holes to a machine shop.Shouldn't cost you very much and you don't have to worry about messing up one or both of your heads.Remember thats 16 holes that have to be threaded perfectly straight

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1968 mustang j-code sprint.13.69@101 306cu.in, stock ported heads,weiand exellerator,650 holley DP,hedman hedders,comp 292 Magnum cam,4-speed,8 inch 4.11 detroit locker http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/MembersPics/mustangboy.html

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-19-2004 12:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dubz save your money and get has much as you can. No reason to pull the heads until you can get all the work at one time. Why do you want to add the roller tips now anyways ?

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-19-2004 01:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
cause they are on my list of things to get And i can afford to get them now. I should get some added lift out of them now for some increased performance. Plus as i understood, there was no other modifications needed.

there is a master plan...it may not be a good plan, but there is a plan, and these were on the list for sometime soon.

Hearing of a good deal on the pro mags got me into thinking about rockers again.

The car is getting getting stripped and a gloss black paint job, so that's where alot of my performance money went...

but still the list of goodies is as follows, not in order, but these are under "to get soon"

Hooker Comp Ceramic Coated Headers
2 1/2 full exhuast fabbed with H pipe
poly suspension bushings
custom tubular rear lower control arms
replacement springs
new shocks
comp cam (thinking 270S k kit)
new rocker arms
heads ported (home) and milled & studs
sce copper head gaskets

hoping to get 300+ hp out of er for now

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 03-19-2004).]

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-19-2004 01:27 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Dubz with my stock 351w motor. I got it to run so much better with holley 600, RPM intake, headers, exhaust system, good tune up, setting up my dist for total timing all in by 3000rpm, and the 3.40 gears which was by far the best upgrade I made. The small summit cam I put in helped but not as much as those others did.
I know where your coming from and where your trying to go. I think you should by the rockers. And store them until you can get all the head work done at once. Finish the body and paint which sounds cool.
My 65 was a real dog when I got it. It was lucky to turn in the high 16's and ended running 14.99 that was without any cam or rocker upgrades. I know those times are not fast but the difference seemed like a big deal behind the wheel.

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-19-2004 01:30 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I joined this site in 2001 right after that Alex wrote about doing a 302 with 300hp for $1500. I asked him some questions about how it would cross over to my 351w. I printed it out and started buying what was needed and started saving for it. I was lucky enough to come up with more then the $1500-$2000 build up. SteveW just keep telling me to save and wait to do it right the first time. I hope it all pays off now,some how I think it will.

------------------
SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-19-2004 01:33 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
yah, i have that writeup too

i allready have the intake (rpm air gap), carb(670), and gears(3.56)

i'm hoping to run 15's this year, so 14.99 would be amazing
but unlikely in a 3700-3900lb car

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Fastymz
Moderator

Posts: 20708
From: Reno Nv USA M&M#1240
Registered: Apr 2001

posted 03-19-2004 01:38 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastymz   Click Here to Email Fastymz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Those are some great parts you already have.
Remember my times were run at 4500 feet. So I realy think my car would have ran mid 14's at closer to sea level.
I think you'll get close to the low 15's.

I'd install the intake, carb, gears and get some headers, coated or not and good exhaust system.

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SCOOP

oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs

65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc.

My Pics

[This message has been edited by Fastymz (edited 03-19-2004).]

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 03-19-2004 01:45 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
intake and carb allready on, need to tune the carb though, and recurve the distributor, there's a miss when you mash the go pedal

oh, and on advice from MM i need to neutral drop the beast a couple times and then i'll probably have stuff to fix :P

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