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Author
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Topic: Question about Competition Engineering traction bars
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Jerry Piner
Gearhead Posts: 177
From: staunton, va
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 03-11-2004 12:51 PM
  
I bought a set of this for my 68, I was reading the instructions and it talks about adjusting the bars so the snubber is against the springs. I have read on this board Alex and others talking about 1/2 to an 1 inch of gap works best. I was wondering if there was something differnt about this bars compared to other traction bars. Should I install them like the instructions say or should I put a gap between the snubber and the springs, if so how much the car is a automatic.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-11-2004 01:35 PM
Which bars did you get Jerry?
I am assuming the "hopper" bars with the "J" bolts?------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,& '04
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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bud4660
Gearhead Posts: 513
From: Mesquite, Tx. M&M #2925
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 03-11-2004 02:00 PM
Well back in the old days I ran lakewoods and if I remember right the air gap was used when driving on the street. Then you run them up at the track. Atleast thats the way I did it...lol
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Jerry Piner
Gearhead Posts: 177
From: staunton, va
Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 03-11-2004 02:07 PM
Alex they are listed as traction bars at Jegs part#2109 they have "U" bolts not "J" bolts.
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 25883
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 03-11-2004 02:15 PM
I see them in the new 2004 C&E cataloge.
The 2109 is the only unit of the 3 hopper bars offered that has "U" bolts instead of "J" bolts.
And people wonder why I call the biased company "Chevoso"  LOLON automatic cars I like a gap between the snubber and the spring eye.
1/2 inch on the left and 3/4 on the right is usually a good starting point to dead on for most Mustangs. ------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,'03,& '04
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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CHIPSBAD67
Gearhead Posts: 396
From: LOU,KY;USA
Registered: Sep 2003
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posted 03-11-2004 10:59 PM
and on stick cars i like the bars preloaded against the spring eye, more preload on the right side is usual. then crank the u-bolts down on the top of the spring and slightly preload them too. so far this has helped my car, still not there yet. the 5 way adjustable shocks seem to have absolutely no affect whatsoever, might as well have slinky's on my car instead of those. dont forget your pinion angle.------------------
306, 4speed, 4.11's....best 1/8 mile 7.58 at 92mph with 1.72 60ft. PUMP GAS/NO ADDERS/STREET TIRES
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