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Author
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Topic: Please help: agrivating electrical problem
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streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 396
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-12-2004 06:35 PM
   
My car has always had a charging system problem, it was mostly overcharging and boiling the fluid out of the battery. I went through 3 voltage regulators before I got one that seemed to work. That was right at the beginning of winter. I haven't been driving much since its been winter, but about a week ago I was going to crank it up just becuase it hadn't been run in a while. First problem was that the battery was dead, so I boosted it off. Usually when I crank it up, it idles around 2000 rpm until it warms up and the choke turns off. Well, it stayed idleing at 2000 rpms nomatter how long it ran and warmed up. So I took it for a test drive to autozone for a charging system check. On the way, going through town, it wouldn't idle in gear. When I came to a complete stop, I had to put it in neutral, or it would idle sparatically and turn off, but when it was in neutral, it would idle at 2000. So I barely get to autozone and is charging at like 11.2 volts a.k.a. not enough. So the dude connects a wire from the alternator to the solenoid and it goes up to 12 volts. And he says that means there is a short somewhere. He "super"-charged my battery while I was there. I went home (again, barely making it through all the lights without it "choking" down) and thoroughly checked all the wiring. I cleaned all connections and figured that I had fixed the problem, but when I cranked it up this afternoon (having to boost because the battery went dead again), the problem is still there. I managed to get to autozone again, and got the same results. What do I do? Please help
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'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast C-4 (stock) 3.55s with traclok
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Tom G
Gearhead Posts: 314
From: Bethlehem, Pa USA
Registered: Nov 2001
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posted 02-12-2004 09:46 PM
sounds like the clown at Autozone full fielded the alternator trying to get it to charge. Check the wires at the voltage regulator for corrosion, bare wires, or a pushed in clip. If nothing there looks bad get a jumper lead and cross the "f" and "s" terminals on the voltage reg terminal block with it disconnected from the regulator. Do this momentarily with the engine running you should here the alternator load down the engine. If possible place a voltmeter across the battery terminals and read the voltage when you jump the terminals on the voltage reg terminal block. The voltage should be over 13 volts and depends on the state of the battery also but you should see a significant jump in voltage when it is tried. Just don't leave the jumper there too long as it will over charge the battery pretty quickly.------------------
67 Mustang Shelby clone F/B 302 GT-40X FMS Crate engine 5 spd cable clutch 13.39 on 205/70/14 BFG @104 mph Flowmasters X Pipe 4.11 9". BIG Body shop NOW! 03 Focus ZX3 BORLA exhaust Wings West spoiler (Arrest ME RED) [This message has been edited by Tom G (edited 02-12-2004).]
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Buster
Gearhead Posts: 1238
From: Orlando
Registered: May 2002
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posted 02-12-2004 10:59 PM
Where are you buying your parts?
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streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 396
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-13-2004 04:17 PM
Usually little stuff I get at Napa or CarQuest. I also get stuff from mustangs unlimited. I try to stay away from autozone and advanced auto parts....but they offer free charging system test.
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streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 396
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-14-2004 06:27 PM
I went to autozone with my alternator to get it tested. The two new guys that were trying to test it hooked it up wrong and burned it up, So I got a free replacement. I've got it installed, but I'm waiting on the battery to charge now to see if there is any change.------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast C-4 (stock) 3.55s with traclok
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bud4660
Gearhead Posts: 144
From: Mesquite, Tx. M&M #2925
Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 02-14-2004 09:36 PM
If you still have problems with the battery going dead. Take a test light and pull the pos. cable off the battery. Put the test light between the cable and battery and see if it lights. If it does then something is on draining the battery. You could have a bad or weak cell in the battery too. You also want the charging system to be putting out no less then 12.8 volts. The only other thing I can think of is to be sure the fanbelt is not slipping in the alternator pulley at high rpm's.
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popeye
Gearhead Posts: 124
From: midwest USA
Registered: Dec 2002
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posted 02-14-2004 11:38 PM
Whenever removing battery cables from the battery posts remove the ground first then the positive to prevent a spark lets say from your wrench creating a ground to the engine compartment or even the negative post  then install in reverse.I would use a test light(very inexpensive)and take the ground cable off the the neg post put the aligator clip on the neg post the other end of the tester on the ground cable to test for a draw on the battery.And the voltage charge range you want to see is 13.7 to 14.2 at a high idle say 1500 to 1800 rpms  popeye ------------------
This is FORD COUNTRY, where on a quiet night, you can hear a chevy rusting
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streetstang67
Gearhead Posts: 396
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002
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posted 02-29-2004 08:55 PM
I've takin all your advice and the problem is still here. I have now got a new battery, alternator, solenoid, and voltage regulator. I've cleaned all connections to electrical stuff in the engine compartment. I'm barely getting anything over 12 v charging with the engine running. With the car off, something is still pulling about 2-3 volts. I also found out that one of the reasons it won't idle in gear is b/c I have my foot on the brake (making the brake lights illuminate). With my foot off the brake, its not as bad...its just not getting enough power at low rpms. The worse part about this is that the problem sorta appeared out of nowhere. It didn't occur after some major thing I did to the car. Any other suggestions?------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast C-4 (stock) 3.55s with traclok
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Fastymz
Moderator Posts: 14201
From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240
Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 02-29-2004 09:24 PM
Have you tried unplugging fuses until you find the one that changes the volt reading.Also if you have any add on's like amp's or electric fan thry unplugging them too and see what happens. I had to buy 3 voltage reg, before I got one that worked right,and 4 solenoids all from Auto Zone. ------------------
SCOOP oddly obsessed with big scoops on little Mustangs 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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