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  Cam, springs,..what else while the engine is apart?

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Author Topic:   Cam, springs,..what else while the engine is apart?
streetstang67
Gearhead

Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 02-11-2004 05:16 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for streetstang67   Click Here to Email streetstang67     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've been wanting to be faster for a while now and I figured a cam was my missing engine "link". Well I started looking at cams and see that I'm going to need to replace the valve springs with the cam change which would require removing the heads (right??). Well if I'm going to tear the engine down that much, what other things should I do while its apart? Right now, I think I could run mid 15's all day long. I would like to be able to realistically run high 13's all day long (not just on a cold day with the wind at my back), or at least low 14's. What do you suggest I do while I have the engine torn down that much?

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'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast

C-4 (stock)

3.55s with traclok

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N266fords
Gearhead

Posts: 1652
From: Sierra Vista ,Az USA
Registered: Apr 2003

posted 02-11-2004 05:26 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for N266fords   Click Here to Email N266fords     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
build a 331 stroker or 347 then no problem getting those #s. if not then at least rering it, head change (your 174 148 valves are to small on a stock head). stall converter 2500-3000, caltracks monoleaf springs.ect. how much is your budget? My suggestion would be go for traction first if you have that then add power.just my .02

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streetstang67
Gearhead

Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 02-11-2004 06:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for streetstang67   Click Here to Email streetstang67     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'll deal with traction later, right now I'm only focusing on the engine. I have no set budget, but I'm not getting new heads. What about milling the heads? Port and polish? Are those two things worth the machining costs?

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'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast

C-4 (stock)

3.55s with traclok

IP: Logged

SteveLaRiviere
Administrator

Posts: 44935
From: Saco, Maine
Registered: May 99

posted 02-11-2004 06:27 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SteveLaRiviere   Click Here to Email SteveLaRiviere     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You don't even need to pull the heads, you can install the valvesprings right in the car.

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'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open
'70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open
'72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc
'94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip

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streetstang67
Gearhead

Posts: 397
From: SC, USA
Registered: Nov 2002

posted 02-11-2004 06:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for streetstang67   Click Here to Email streetstang67     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I've heard that too, but the guy at the machine shop said that SBF's are a b*tch to change springs with the heads on. How do I do it? What would make it hard?

------------------
'67 coupe: 289 bored .030 over, c-4 tranny
Holley 600 carb, edelbrock performer intake, Crane XR-i ignition, hooker comp headers, dual flowmaster exhuast

C-4 (stock)

3.55s with traclok

IP: Logged

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