Author
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Topic: KB piston clearances
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BLstangin Gearhead Posts: 802 From: St. James, MN Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-13-2004 12:17 AM
As you guys know I put my 306 together last summer and have since put about 600 miles on it. Now I am hearing of kb pistons needing extra ring gap,or they will crack or break the top ring land. I set mine at .016-.018 because my dad and I figured the tighter the safe ring gap, the more power the motor will make. No one said a word about more ring gap, and there was nothing in the box with the pistons. Now I see a chart that says that I need .026 at least. I don't have the money to do this again. Last time that I checked the plugs they all looked fine with no signs of metal and the oil didn't look like it had any metal in it, besides break in wear. I need to know what to do, is it too late or do I need to take it back apart and file the rings. It says that they run hotter and that is why it needs the extra clearances. Well my motor is right on the verge of pinging, so they have to be running pretty hot. My motor always stays right around 180 though. Please help me, I am severly confused and can't afford to make this mistake! Some say that I shouldn't worry about it and others say that they have seen what happens first hand. Can I just pull it apart, file the rings and put them back in the same cylinder, or do I have to buy new rings and hone the cylinders to get them to seal again? WHAT SHOULD I DO? ------------------ 1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok 1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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Bloose Gearhead Posts: 692 From: Milwaukee, WI Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 01:10 AM
BL,I think you've got a problem. When I bought my KB pistons it came with a sheet in the box. They are very specific about the ring gaps they want. They even specify different gaps for blown motors and motors that will run NOS. I also talked to KB and they said the larger ring gap is an absolute must and has been identified as the scource of most piston falures they see. The reason for all this is not only that they run hotter but the top ring land is higher up the piston than normal. From what I've read that's actually a good thing for HP and efficency but it does require running wider gaps on the top ring. Once the motor is warmed up the upper ring gap should be about the same as other pistons. I personally feel that KB pistons have a bad rap because lots of motor shops falsly believed that such a big top ring gap would cost you power and was not nessesary. If your ring gap gets to zero the rings will lock in the cylinder and break the upper land of the piston. As much as it sucks if I were you I would correct this ASAP. I would think you could pull the pistons, regap the rings and reasemble it without new rings. Too small of a ring gap on a KB piston is a recipy for disaster. For reference I have KB116's in my 289 and have about 10.1:1 compression. I've run it for two Summers with some heating problems along the way and have run 125hp NOS to the motor several times. The motor still runs perfect. I heard the KB's are a bad choice for NOS but again I think people have run the gaps to tight in the past. I went to the wide end of the spec when I did mine just for insurance and I've had no problems at all. HTH, B-loose
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smblk t-bolt Journeyman Posts: 92 From: port alberni BC Canada Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-13-2004 01:23 AM
Blstangin, a friend of mine built a new 351w 2 years ago, dropped by my house after he broke it in. sounded a bit odd, but we figured needed to be tuned up. he got about 100 more miles out of it and Ka-Boom!. tore the top ring land out and rattled it around in the cylinder.he ended up needing to sleeve the block. (actually got off a bit lucky, coulda been worse) the ring gap was too tight and he said the same thing, the box contained no specific top ring gap instructions for a larger than normal gap. you should probably do something about it... its a case of "pay now, or max out the visa later" i think.
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Billy Mac Gearhead Posts: 857 From: S.Ga Registered: Aug 2003
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posted 01-13-2004 01:49 AM
If its just the top ring that requires re-sizing.....take each piston out and mark where the gap is NOW......do the required whittling and put the ring back in the same location on the piston.....(indexing it so to speak)......should be ok......A little bit of time and a gasket set now is definitely better than the alternative of a trashed motor later!!!
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BLstangin Gearhead Posts: 802 From: St. James, MN Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-13-2004 08:54 AM
Hey Alex, what do you think, can I just take the rings out, file them and put them back in, or do I need new rings? Also do you guys think that I have hurt my motor yet? ------------------ 1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok 1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1724 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 10:15 AM
If you have already ran it through extreme conditions and made it through a 600 mile break-in period, chances are you will be fine as long as the engine remains to run cool and the fuel mixture stays correct. Your piston to wall clearance and continuous rpm range has a lot to do with the amount of heat generated. Most piston and ring seizures occur before the first 500 miles or can happen anytime thereafter because of an extremely lean condition over just a few miles. That being said, it's really up to you if you want to be on the safe side and gap them up to .026".------------------ 1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi. 11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver! DanH
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Mpcoluv Gearhead Posts: 1299 From: Charlotte NC usa Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 10:19 AM
If it were my motor, I'd bite the bullet and pull the rings and properly gap them. It is much cheaper than a later problem.
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4413 From: Phoenix, Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 10:19 AM
I'm with Dan on this. If it was gonna blow up, it probably would've done it by now. That tight a gap will NOT let you run it hot at all, you'll need to keep the rpm's lower than maybe you'd like to spin, nitrous oxide/forced induction is out of the question. On the other hand, all it'll cost you to 'fix' the issue is a gasket set and time. Provided that you put the rings back in the same bore they came out of, there's no reason to hone or replace anything ------------------ 1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 26513 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 01-13-2004 10:47 AM
quote: Originally posted by BLstangin: Hey Alex, what do you think, can I just take the rings out, file them and put them back in, or do I need new rings? Also do you guys think that I have hurt my motor yet?
If you are going through all of the trouble of R&R'ng the motor, you would be foolish not to spend another $50-$80 on a new set of rings.------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver MCA member# 53321 NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03 First SS/MA in the TENS! IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked." Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!" Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!" www.moneymakerracing.com
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4413 From: Phoenix, Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 10:52 AM
quote: Originally posted by Moneymaker: [QUOTE] If you are going through all of the trouble of R&R'ng the motor, you would be foolish not to spend another $50-$80 on a new set of rings.
I could see that on a mid-to-high miler, but even with only 600 miles on it? Next winter I plan on pulling down my motor, just to freshen it up. Maybe some porting, maybe a roller I'll definetely re-ring it, as it'll have around 5k miles on it by then. ------------------ 1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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BLstangin Gearhead Posts: 802 From: St. James, MN Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-13-2004 11:03 AM
I just talked to a classmate of mine who runs motors in circle track cars. He says that he runs the kb pistons with the standard gap and hasn't had a problem. He said if it was him he wouldn't touch it, it will be fine. Alex what do you think that I should do with it? The motor only runs up to about 6,500 rpm at the very max, and it has only run that high once. It has seen 5,500 numerous times already though.------------------ 1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok 1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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bluestreek Gearhead Posts: 1724 From: Athens,GA Registered: Jul 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 11:09 AM
New rings would also require a fresh hone job to seat properly. If you're gonna go that far, may as well put fresh bearings in the bottom and change oil after break-in. You would end up with a really tight engine without most of the break-in scratches that comes from a full rebuild.Look on the bright side..You don't have to worry about running in a new cam. ------------------ 1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi. 11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver! DanH
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 26513 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 01-13-2004 11:30 AM
OK, now that I reread this thread and see where your concerns arose, I would just leave it alone. You have no problems, just second thoughts. Sort of like taking out a beautiful woman for the first time, and by the end of the evening, getting her clothes off, looking good, green light, ready to go,......... then wondering "what's wrong, this is too easy". LOL Drive the piss out of it and enjoy it. ------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver MCA member# 53321 NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03 First SS/MA in the TENS! IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked." Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!" Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!" www.moneymakerracing.com
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 43791 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-13-2004 11:41 AM
quote: Originally posted by Moneymaker: Sort of like taking out a beautiful woman for the first time, and by the end of the evening, getting her clothes off, looking good, green light, ready to go,......... then wondering "what's wrong, this is too easy". LOL
Then you notice the bottle of AZT on the nightstand...
------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open '70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open '72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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V8 Thumper Gearhead Posts: 4413 From: Phoenix, Arizona Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 12:14 PM
------------------ 1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9" All Blue Oval, no blue bottle http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html
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Bloose Gearhead Posts: 692 From: Milwaukee, WI Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 07:47 PM
I'm sorry but I just have to disagree with others here. I think you should consider yourself luck up to this point and straighten this out. I really think you are asking for trouble if you don't. These pistons are different from others with their higher ring lands. It is very possible for the piston itself to get hot very quickly without translating to higher engine temps immediately. During detonation the piston temp could rise very quickly and then you have the whole motor down for major repairs, instead of minor. As the motor ages and you get a build up of carbon in the cylinders detonation becomes more likely. So you may be fine now, but down the road you may not be. Many here say not to run Hypers with NOS but then they seem to be saying your fine running the top ring gap MUCH tighter than the manufacturer recommends. I am not claiming to know all here but I can tell you for a fact if it were my motor I would already have it apart. As for replacing the rings, getting the ring gap right is more important if you ask me. I don't nessesarily think the it is a bad idea, but if that would be the thing that holds you up I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them. I talked to a guy who built race motors for many years and whom I trust very much and he said you should have no problem reusing the old rings. Just index them the same as they came out and put them back in the same hole. It's your motor so it's entirely up to you. But again, if it were mine I know what I would do. B-loose
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Moneymaker Administrator Posts: 26513 From: Lyons, IL, USA Registered: May 99
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posted 01-13-2004 08:35 PM
This is my last comment on this subject. I think that if there are no problems right now then leave well enough alone. Base on the information given and the financial situation. As far as building engines and re-using rings, I have built a few motors myself.
Just a few. Re-using rings that have already been seated, on a fresh re-hone is just like re-using a CONDOM ! That is a fact.
------------------ Alex Denysenko Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver MCA member# 53321 NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03 First SS/MA in the TENS! IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked." Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!" Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!" www.moneymakerracing.com
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Bloose Gearhead Posts: 692 From: Milwaukee, WI Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-13-2004 10:01 PM
Sorry if it sounded like I was saying you are inexperienced. I know you know what your talking about and have lots of experience but I still disagree on this matter. No biggy though.B-loose
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BLstangin Gearhead Posts: 802 From: St. James, MN Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-13-2004 11:51 PM
Thanks for all your help guys. I haven't decided what I am going to do yet. This motor has been a disaster from the day I took it apart to rebuild it. If I was going to reuse the rings I wouldn't hone the cylinders. I will be going for 2.79 gears to 3.50 so that may make my motor run a little hotter down the highway, I don't know. It has gone a 50 mile cruise at 70 mph the whole way with some 4,000 rpm 4th gear runs and it was fine, so maybe I am o.k. as Alex said, or maybe I have just gotten lucky so far I don't know. The thing that gets me is, when you are 18 going to college, and working on a mustang, trying to fix my truck because it won't idle right, you don't really have even the money for the gaskets. Plus I didn't get to drive it at all last summer because the old motor blew up in the spring. That is why I just wanted to build it right the first time and enjoy the car for years to come. Right now it is in winter storage until spring. Now if I have to pull the motor again, then it is more time that I can't drive it, plus my buddy has already asked me if he could use it for prom, so I have to make sure it is good to go for that. If I had the money I would be pulling it right now, but I don't, that is the problem. Thanks for listening. If anyone else has an opinion or experience on this topic please post it, thanks Brandon.------------------ 1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok 1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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steve'66 Gearhead Posts: 9104 From: Sonoma,CA,USA Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-14-2004 12:17 AM
Brandon,Don't worry about it! It will live a long and happy life, just enjoy it. SteveW
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Ryan Wilke Gearhead Posts: 2125 From: Stanton, Michigan 49707 Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-14-2004 10:00 AM
quote: Originally posted by BLstangin:.....The thing that gets me is, when you are 18 going to college, and working on a mustang, trying to fix my truck because it won't idle right, you don't really have even the money for the gaskets. Plus I didn't get to drive it at all last summer because the old motor blew up in the spring. That is why I just wanted to build it right the first time and enjoy the car for years to come. Right now it is in winter storage until spring. Now if I have to pull the motor again, then it is more time that I can't drive it, plus my buddy has already asked me if he could use it for prom, so I have to make sure it is good to go for that. If I had the money I would be pulling it right now, but I don't, that is the problem.
Ahhhh,,,,,,, I remember being 18.... then I too used to think that I was the poorest guy around & that the world was not being fair to me & that somewhere someone was laughing at me and pulling my strings. It was as if I had no control over what was happening around me..... However, it sounds to me that you're doing pretty dang well. Because: -- it sounds as though you have your health -- you are able to go college -- you are able to afford not one but TWO vehicles (a truck & a classic Stang; even if they aren't in the best of condition) As far as a deadline for your Stang, just maybe your buddy will have to locate a different vehicle to "borrow" for the prom...that's NOT your problem. Now maybe if he is assisting you in the wrenching (and maybe some $$) for your Stang rebuild, then maybe a deal to borrow it has been earned by him. Brandon, try to remember there are some folks here that have been doing this hot-rodding thing longer than you have been alive! Don't fall into the trap thinking that they got their nice job & paycheck, nice house & garage, hotrod knowledge & room full of hyperf parts just last week! It'll come to you too. Just be patient, pay attention to detail in your schoolwork and in your life, and it'll all come together....maybe not as quickly as you think it should, but it will come. Ryan
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SteveLaRiviere Administrator Posts: 43791 From: Saco, Maine Registered: May 99
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posted 01-14-2004 03:07 PM
A set of rings and a gasket set costs about $150. Tell your friend it will cost $150 to borrow your car for the prom, payable now.I'd rering it and put the clearances KB recommends. Too bad they didn't have their **** together enough to give you the right specs in the first place. About the being young and poor, that's nothing that 99.9999% of us haven't gone through before. Wait until you have a mortgage and a family to support, then it'll be really fun trying to put a hot rod together. ------------------ '70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4V/FMX/3.25 Open '70 Mustang Convertible 250 I6/3 speed/2.79 Open '72 Mustang Sprint Hardtop 351C 4V/FMX/4.30 Trac Loc '94 F-150 XL 5.8L/E4OD/3.55 Limited Slip
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Von Journeyman Posts: 81 From: Jay, OK Registered: Oct 2003
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posted 01-15-2004 09:53 AM
A friend of mine has a machine shop here in Oklahoma. He has a couple of KB pistons that had drop in rings put on them. To put it mildly, it is not a pretty sight. Nor were the blocks that were both cracked in the respective cylinders when both top ring lands blew apart. No offense to the guys who say to run it like it is, but there is a reason with these pistons to run more gap. I would bet if you ever see any serious detonation under load, bye bye to one or more pistons. The KB book is very explicit about the needed gaps and why to add more gap. I would recommend reading it before making a decision. Also, why not just take the top ring off, file it and put it back in? The cylinder wont know the difference, neither will the ring. Spend 100 bucks on gaskets, or perhaphs spend some serious money on a new shortblock.
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ukracer Gearhead Posts: 154 From: South Wales UK Registered: Apr 2003
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posted 01-15-2004 11:52 AM
I have KB181's in my 351W which I circuit race and drive on the road. So far I have done 8 races (about 15 mins each) and a couple of thousand road miles and no problems, despite severe overheating in summer (racing) and a tick of detonation sometimes (racing). BUT I did gap the rings as per KB's recommendations so I did not expect problems. I will be pulling the engine apart any day now for a quick freshen and bigger valves before the start of this season so I can give them a good look but so far, no indication of any problem. I would definitely NOT risk undersize ring gaps. As far as I know, they are the No1 cause of damage to the pistons. Just my 2p. Cheers, Martin.
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Fastymz Moderator Posts: 19583 From: Reno Nv USA MEM#1240 Registered: Apr 2001
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posted 01-16-2004 04:11 PM
quote: Originally posted by Ryan Wilke: Brandon, try to remember there are some folks here that have been doing this hot-rodding thing longer than you have been alive! Don't fall into the trap thinking that they got their nice job & paycheck, nice house & garage, hotrod knowledge & room full of hyperf parts just last week! It'll come to you too. Just be patient, pay attention to detail in your schoolwork and in your life, and it'll all come together....maybe not as quickly as you think it should, but it will come. Ryan
I'm still waiting for the room full of parts,the big pay check, hotrod knowledge, and to be more patient.
------------------ SCOOP "It is the fight itself that keeps you young" 2.26 60'S 14.9 @ 90.86MPH 65 coupe,351w,C4,Big Boss 429 hood scoop,8" 3.40 TracLoc. My Pics
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Bloose Gearhead Posts: 692 From: Milwaukee, WI Registered: Dec 2001
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posted 01-16-2004 10:14 PM
quote: Originally posted by Von: A friend of mine has a machine shop here in Oklahoma. He has a couple of KB pistons that had drop in rings put on them. To put it mildly, it is not a pretty sight. Nor were the blocks that were both cracked in the respective cylinders when both top ring lands blew apart. No offense to the guys who say to run it like it is, but there is a reason with these pistons to run more gap. I would bet if you ever see any serious detonation under load, bye bye to one or more pistons. The KB book is very explicit about the needed gaps and why to add more gap. I would recommend reading it before making a decision. Also, why not just take the top ring off, file it and put it back in? The cylinder wont know the difference, neither will the ring. Spend 100 bucks on gaskets, or perhaphs spend some serious money on a new shortblock.
I agree 100%!!! B-loose
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TomP Gearhead Posts: 5822 From: Delta BC Canada Registered: Dec 99
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posted 01-17-2004 11:19 PM
I built a 351W using those same pistons, i questioned the need for so much ring gap but did what they say and the engine has run fine for years. In your case it may be a risk, don't beat on it hard and it shouldn't be a problem, it will take a long while to wear enough for the gap they ask for, if it were me i'd pull the pistons, file the rings and stick them back in the position they came out without re-honing. Hey, i've even reused head and intake gaskets, but not often "2.79 gears... the highway ...4,000 rpm 4th gear runs" Why that's slightly above the posted limits unless ....ummm,you have 18" tall rear tires don't you? (in case cops read this)
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BLstangin Gearhead Posts: 802 From: St. James, MN Registered: Apr 2002
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posted 01-18-2004 01:49 AM
Ya, um ya, that's it 18" tires! ------------------ 1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok 1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans
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