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Author Topic:   9" axle housing questions?
BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 01-10-2004 12:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin   Click Here to Email BLstangin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I finally got my 9" axle home and looked it over. The axle tubes are large where they come out of the pumpkin, but taper down some towards the end where the clamps go, is this a stronger axle or a weaker one? Also it was in a fire, but there is still grease on the outside of the pumpkin, in the housing, and on the axle bearings, and the bearings seem to be fine, although I will replace them anyway. The brake pads however were slightly melted to the drum, and I had to break the drums to get them off, is the housing still usuable or is it unsafe to use? Also will the brakes from my current 8" fit the 9" there are both for a 70 stang. Thanks in advance, Brandon.

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1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

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V8 Thumper
Gearhead

Posts: 4652
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Registered: Dec 2001

posted 01-10-2004 07:56 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for V8 Thumper   Click Here to Email V8 Thumper     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The brake hardware is interchangable to the 9" housing

The 'taper' in the tubes is very good. The fire wasted all the brake hardware; toss all of it. I doubt it hurt the housing... sounds like you've got a good piece there

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1965 GT coupe, 333ci aluminum headed/solid cammed stroker, four speed, 3.70:1 9"

All Blue Oval, no blue bottle
http://mustangsandmore.50megs.com/V8Thumper.html

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Moneymaker
Administrator

Posts: 26813
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99

posted 01-10-2004 11:19 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Moneymaker   Click Here to Email Moneymaker     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
10-4

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Alex Denysenko
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BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 01-10-2004 11:08 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin   Click Here to Email BLstangin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
How about the axles, would you guys run them? Or could the heat of gotten to them?

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1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

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BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 01-11-2004 08:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin   Click Here to Email BLstangin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I started to take this thing apart and it appears to have the standard pinion support, standard 28 spline axles, but a strange one is the case is a c7aw-g casting, but it is machined for the larger 3.063 carrier bearings! Cool huh!

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1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

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steve'66
Gearhead

Posts: 9489
From: Sonoma,CA,USA
Registered: Mar 2000

posted 01-11-2004 10:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for steve'66   Click Here to Email steve'66     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BLstangin:
How about the axles, would you guys run them? Or could the heat of gotten to them?


I'd run them if they are straight.

SteveW

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BLstangin
Gearhead

Posts: 817
From: St. James, MN
Registered: Apr 2002

posted 01-12-2004 07:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BLstangin   Click Here to Email BLstangin     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I got it apart and it looks so good that I probably could have thrown it in the way it was and ran it, but I am going to put new clutches in it just for the added assurance, along with bearings and seals. I have a question about setting up the breakaway torque. What is the best setting for this without overstressing the case and cracking it, or making the it act like it is locked constantly, but still not do a one wheel peel when it is floored? I don't want it to slip. My buddy has one that was done by a big company that builds performance rear ends, and it works awesome, but they wouldn't give away their specs, so anyone?

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1970 coupe restored with the help of my dad. 306 with 600 holley, Weiand Stealth intake, headers, Comp cam, harland sharp roller rockers, kb pistons, 11:1 compression ratio, pertonix ignitor 2 with matched coil, lakewood bellhousing, 4-speed toploader, and 2.79 open 8" rear. Soon to be 9" 3.50 trac-lok
1986 f-150, 5.0, factory towing package with original c-6 trans

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Fastback68
Gearhead

Posts: 3720
From: Sucat, Paranaque, Philippines
Registered: Jul 99

posted 01-12-2004 08:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Fastback68   Click Here to Email Fastback68     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
The 'taper' in the tubes is very good.

How's that? I thought the untapered 9-inchers, like one I have from a '73 F100, were stronger - not just 'cos it has 31-spline axles, but the housing itself. Not true?

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