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Author
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Topic: Axle Re-Drill ?
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-06-2004 10:32 PM
 
How will having a set of axles affect their strength? I have a set with a 5 �� bolt pattern that I would like to change to a 4 ��. About how much should this cost and can most machine shops handle this?
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-06-2004 11:09 PM
Depends on the material.
Race axles will be fine.
Usually about $25 each.------------------
Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-06-2004 11:13 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Moneymaker:
Depends on the material.
These are vintage 57 large bearing Wagon axles
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Moneymaker
Administrator Posts: 29200
From: Lyons, IL, USA
Registered: May 99
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posted 01-07-2004 12:53 AM
With a 5.5 inch bolt pattern??????????????
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Alex Denysenko
Co-Administrator and Moderator NHRA/IHRA/SRA member and licensed Superstock driver
MCA member# 53321
NHRA and IHRA SS/LA & SS/MA National Record Holder '00,'01,'02,&'03
First SS/MA in the TENS!
IHRA division 5 Superstock Champion
Fleet of FoMoCo products including 88 ASC McLaren Mustang #28 The Barry of BarrysGrrl Quote #1: "I never met a magazine mechanic I liked."
Quote #2: "Make sure brain is in gear before engaging mouth!"
Quote #3: "If you can't run with the big dogs, stay on the porch!"
www.moneymakerracing.com
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-07-2004 11:00 AM
I might have measured it wrong but it was at least 5" but looked like more! It's the 57 style rear but I pulled it out of a big 59 Edsel.Maybe it could be from a 57 Ranchero or Delivery? [This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 01-08-2004).]
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the al show
Journeyman Posts: 8
From: Fryeburg Maine.
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 01-07-2004 11:59 AM
Ford pickups and Broncos have a 5.5 bolt pattern.
I have an alternative method for redrilling axles if you're interested.
I'm a machinist and I've redrilled axles without taking the axles out. I made a 1/2 inch thick aluminum ring that looked like a wheel adaptor. To change from 5.5 to 4.5 you drill the two bolt patterns in the ring 180 degrees from each other. Make it a tight fit on the studs. Remove the brake shoes and hardware. Bolt it on (lug nuts go flat side down) and drill through the 4.5 holes through the drum and axle. Then knock out the studs and put them in the new holes. Most machine shops have small cnc machines that will calculate all the hole locations. You just punch in the bolt circle and number of holes.
It's best to do the first side just enough to center the drill and then drill through the other side. That way if you strech out one of the holes in the plate the drill will still be on center.
AL
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-07-2004 11:15 PM
quote:
Originally posted by the al show:
To change from 5.5 to 4.5 you drill the two bolt patterns in the ring 180 degrees from each other.
You lost me on that 180 flip, what about the hole in the flange to get at the backing plate bolts? I have the axles out and will most likely use a drill press but what kind of bits do you recommend? I can send you a picture of the axle wheel flange.
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the al show
Journeyman Posts: 8
From: Fryeburg Maine.
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 01-08-2004 01:10 PM
If you drill the first hole in the 5.5 bolt pattern at the 3 o'clock position you start the 4.5 bolt pattern at the 9 o'clock position.
If the hole in the flange is where one of the new holes would be then 180 degrees won't work.Use whatever offset that will clear all the holes.
If you already have the axles out it's easy to drill a perfect bolt pattern on a milling machine.You would still need to make the jig on a milling machine to get it right on a drill press.It would cost about the same for a shop to drill 10 holes in your axles as it would to make the jig.
If you do it yourself Use a good quality high speed steel drill bit. No Taiwan specials or bargain brands. I would use a stub drill to keep it straight. A 1/2 inch stub drill has about a 2 1/2 inch flute a jobbers length has 4 1/2 inches of flute and more likely to drill crooked if you lean on it too hard.
You can make a template with a compass and protractor on the back of a cereal box (or a 12 pack if you're like me) to figure out the best angle to offset the holes.
Of course you can go the primative route and just lay out the holes on your flange, center punch them and go for it.
AL
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the al show
Journeyman Posts: 8
From: Fryeburg Maine.
Registered: Jan 2004
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posted 01-08-2004 03:32 PM
Just to clarify what I said. I didn't mean that you should use a 1/2 inch drill. I was just using that as an example because it's close to the size you need. You'll have to take your own measurements with a micrometer or calipers to determine the correct drill size.
AL
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-09-2004 08:02 AM
quote:
Originally posted by the al show:
AL
Will it weaken the flange much? Should I have the old holes filled in?
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kid vishus
Gearhead Posts: 7251
From: middle of NC
Registered: Oct 2000
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posted 01-09-2004 08:13 AM
How much power you plan on making,or how fast do you want the car to run?The reason I ask is, my granada had a truck rear end in it that had the axles redrilled. I never had any problems with the flanges running 11.30's with a weight of around 3200 lbs. Faster than that I started breaking the driver's side axles at the splines on the factory 31 spline axles. A set of aftermarket axles fixed that problem, but I never had any problems with the flanges. We even had the drums drilled to match the new 4 1/2" bolt pattern.
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-09-2004 12:58 PM
I haven��t decided what I��m going to do with it yet but I would like to be able to resell it fairly easily if I don��t keep it. I figured if I can get it to be 4.5�� then it would fit in a 65-66 Mustang or Falcon. The front and the back lug patterns would match and you wouldn��t need two spares for the street.
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 6376
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 01-11-2004 12:03 AM
First of all there are NO cars with 5" or 5 1/2" pattern 9" rear ends in the late 50's. It's either a truck (check for spring pads being on top of the housing rather than below)or a 70's big car. Next why redrill? If these are 28 spline and wide you can easily scare up proper 4 1/2" pattern axles.
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-11-2004 11:45 AM
quote:
Originally posted by TomP:
First of all there are NO cars with 5" or 5 1/2" pattern 9" rear ends in the late 50's. It's either a truck (check for spring pads being on top of the housing rather than below)or a 70's big car.
OK, I have a rear axle assembly that I removed from a 59 Edsel. It looks like the 57 wagon style axle housing as seen on the other sites and has the big bearings. It is 28 spline, has a WAB center case, 11�� brakes, brake line mounts on the driver side and the spring perches are welded to the bottoms of the axle tubes. Measurements are as follows, Flange outside to flange outside looks like 55 5/16��
Flange inside to flange inside looks like 54 ��
Center to center of the spring perches look like 42��
Wheel bolt pattern looks to be 5��
Long axle length from end of the backside of the wheel flange is 31 5/8��
Short axle length from end of the backside of the wheel flange is 27 3/16�� What do I have?
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TomP
Gearhead Posts: 6376
From: Delta BC Canada
Registered: Dec 99
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posted 01-11-2004 07:14 PM
What do you have? Problems!  The axles measure about the same as the 67-70 Mustangs/Cougars and 66-69 Falcon/Fairlane/Comets. Total width should be close to 60", though the housing is likely 1/2" wider than a Mustang since the early axles don't stick as far out of the housing and the brakes are shallower... try to find new late 50's drums, it's tough! I'm not sure why you really need big bearings ,you may be better off with other axles, narrower and small bearing ,and change the housing ends while shortening it. That width is wider than a 57-59 Ford smaller Edsel , i've never checked a big gunboat Edsel for length or even noticed the bolt pattern... maybe there was a 5 on 5"? I've never run across that. Old Lincolns used a Spicer rear end that looks like a Dana 60 to me so it isn't that.
If you are going to sell it don't redrill, a Chevy guy is likely to buy it with the 5 on 5" pattern. That rear end would suit a Camaro better than a 65 Mustang  If you need a rear end for that you are much further ahead using a small bearing housing with your 8" axles and brakes, i've even built a couple by just grafting in the 9" center pot into an 8" housing where the tubes weld on and didn't even have to touch the spring perches. [This message has been edited by TomP (edited 01-11-2004).]
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68 S-code GT
Gearhead Posts: 3835
From: Sayreville, NJ, US
Registered: Mar 2000
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posted 01-11-2004 07:37 PM
It's just something I picked up cheap. Both of my 68 Mustangs have 9"ers in them so I figured I would play around with it.  It did come out of one of those big Edsels. I figured if I go to 5X4.5 I could go with Galaxie drums.[This message has been edited by 68 S-code GT (edited 01-12-2004).]
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