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  Anyone use Flat Out Gaskets before??

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Author Topic:   Anyone use Flat Out Gaskets before??
Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 12-12-2003 01:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
they make copper head gaskets in .021", .031", .040", .050", .064", .072", .080", and .090"

but would have to custom order them, just was wondering if anyone had used them to know how they are

http://www.flatoutgaskets.com/gaskets/AM.asp

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 12-12-2003 03:18 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
You can get SCE copper gaskets from Summit without special ordering.

SCE-036062 (.021, 4.060)
SCE-036063 (.032, 4.060)
SCE-036064 (.043, 4.060)

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 12-12-2003 03:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Sweet, thanks a bunch

Do copper gaskets need to have o rings? Just if you need them right (which i don't)

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 12-12-2003).]

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 12-12-2003 11:31 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The O-ring question is debatable. SCE recommends the O-ring an any racing engine. I say not necessary up to 11:1, then yes above 11:1 or when using any kind of boost or juice. Use copper coat spray and apply thoroughly and evenly on both sides then torque as usual. Then loosen and retorque each bolt in correct sequence after your first cooldown.

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 12-12-2003 11:35 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I'll be running 8.8:1 with a 50 shot of the giggle juice

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Ryan Wilke
Gearhead

Posts: 2289
From: Stanton, Michigan 49707
Registered: Oct 2000

posted 12-13-2003 08:04 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Ryan Wilke   Click Here to Email Ryan Wilke     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bluestreek:
...Use copper coat spray and apply thoroughly and evenly on both sides then torque as usual. Then loosen and retorque each bolt in correct sequence after your first cooldown.

Hey Dan,
I've used copper coat spray (and aluminum spray paint) on my head gaskets before;

but I haven't heard of the, "...Then loosen and retorque each bolt in correct sequence after your first cooldown." procedure.
Where did you learn that move?
Does everyone here do that in their install sequence?

Ryan

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 12-13-2003 08:29 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
This is mainly for metal type gaskets. they have a tendancy to "settle in and relax" after the block, heads, and intake are heated and cooled for the first time. The top bolts/studs are especially important, since you have added stress from the intake. I like to go back and add 5 ft-lbs more to these aftr break-in just for insurance, but that's just me.

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH

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Dubz
Gearhead

Posts: 1890
From: Manitoba Canada
Registered: Oct 2002

posted 12-13-2003 12:46 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dubz   Click Here to Email Dubz     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
I think the part about the loosening is what was under question

edit: i can't spell

[This message has been edited by Dubz (edited 12-13-2003).]

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bluestreek
Gearhead

Posts: 1724
From: Athens,GA
Registered: Jul 2001

posted 12-13-2003 06:51 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for bluestreek   Click Here to Email bluestreek     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
The threads tend to lock up after setting for awhile, so in order to get a true torque reading you have to reverse the bolts enough to pop the tension loose.

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1966 Mustang Coupe: Custom glass hood and BIG scoop sits atop a 289 stroked to 331 c.i., Steel crank, rods and girdle, TFS alum. heads, Stealth 8020 intake, Xtreme 268 Solid Roller, Holley 750 HP, long tubes, 4speed, 9" 3.50 posi.
11.86 @ 116 mph (7.62 @ 93 mph)daily driver!
DanH

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SundanceKid
Gearhead

Posts: 1273
From: UT
Registered: Feb 2001

posted 12-13-2003 07:42 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for SundanceKid   Click Here to Email SundanceKid     Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote
Make a mark on the head bolts and the head indexing the two. Loosen the head bolts and retorque after first warm up. Notice that when retorqueing the bolts to the exact same torque, the line on the bolt will be approxemately 90 degrees more, then the mark on the head.

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